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TomoHawk

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Everything posted by TomoHawk

  1. Did you notice that on every TV show involving cars, like Pinks, Bull Run, etc. always have cars that are "professionally built," yet break down n half way to the end? My car club (ZACO) has been from Cleveland, to Dallas, Miami, Syracuse ( all the national Z car shows) with the stock 240s for a number of years, yet has never had a car break down! On bull run, the Lambo ( a very expensive car?) has had clutch problems the whole time. They need a stock Focus or maybe even a Hyundai to run these challenges and probably win, and use the extra gas money they saved to celebrate. :squareeye
  2. Get yourself a can of DeOxit 100 (100% concentration- strongest stuff) and a can of DeOxit 5 (5% concentration). Use the 100 to get the green stuf/rust/corrosion off then the 5 to lubricate & protect. A little scraping might help if it's really heavily corroded. DON'T SAND. Also, some dielectric grease is good to have on hand for spark plugs, battery posts, etc.(exposed connectors.)
  3. Do you think 8 Gigs will be enough for everything?
  4. She doesn't spin her hed around and vomit pea soup across the room, I hope? :eek: :tapemouth
  5. Have you seen the Great American Race? It's from someplace in NC to Seattle, and there is another one going from NYC to Seattle for the centennial anniversary of the 1908 Great race- NYC to Paris - Just like in the movie. http://www.greatrace.com/greatrace/gr2008/index.php
  6. Which one is the photo of your driveway, they both look the same!
  7. TomoHawk replied to 3RD STRIKE's topic in Help Me !!
    there are certain cheats that ar done, like using fixed resistors to replace temperature sensors, but only for temporary use. Everything (coolant temperature, air flow, etc.) is constantly changing during ordinary use, so it's of little use for street driving.
  8. TomoHawk replied to 3RD STRIKE's topic in Help Me !!
    I'll bet you can "adjust" an ECU, if you had the schematic, an EE degree from Nissan, some electronics parts, and some guts. Other than that, the best thing that you can do is to make sure the sensors are operating perfectly, and the connections and wiring are perfect. You need to think "1980's" when you fix your Z or older ZX, which is before engine controllers were microprocessor-controlled. If a service tech tells you they can program it, they they are lying, or don't have any idea what kind of car you have, and most likely only knows about the newest stuff, thinking an old "Nissan" is like an Infinity. BTDT. Camouflage- C64 computers share much more sophisticated than one may think. For what they had, they were on par with the early PCs. The anology is closer to transistor radio - Pentium I. thx
  9. Did you see all that neato detail inside the car? That's what you get at 1:18 scale (or bigger.) It's got the vertical defroster lines....
  10. Hotwheels makes many diecast models you'd like to collect. I have a couple Ferraris from Hotwheels, even though they're considered an off-brand compared to Burago, et al. I think I saw a diecast 240Z model- the kind with the detailed engine (spark plug wires, radiator hoses, etc) somwhere for sale, but at $750, I preferred to get some full-size tires. I probably wouldn't fit into it, or i'd lose the car keys in the rug. :eek:
  11. Either way, the 'shiniest' car, or the one with the most money put into it for restoration ( even in an unrestored class) will probably win. People just don't like dirty or dull cars, paint, or engines. The DD class is the closest thing so far, but even there, you're expected to put a bundle of $$$ into the car, to make everything shine, perfect paint, etc. I don't do that much with my new car! the big question, IMO, would be how far can you go with cleaning, polishing, and paint in an 'unrestored stock' class? remember there actually are cars out there that have 10,000 original miles on it and look almost new, almost as good as a totally restored car ( there's one in my club.) thx
  12. I have a number of diecast cars, of 1:18 and a couple 1:24 scale, and IMO, Anything smaller than 1:18th scale is too small to apreciate the details as they would relate to the real car. Some objects, like a shifter, are too fragile to touch. At 1:18, you can see lettering, lines on vent grilles, the texture of the leater seats. On anything smaller, textures and details need to be exaggerated to be reproduced by anything less fine than a laser. thx
  13. I tried one of those unrestored classes once. I don't think the judges stopped to look at my car! Instead they went to the next car which had a new ragtop. I got my goodie bag, and the free lunch, and I talked with a nice Alpha owner ( his car had the same Bosch fuel injection) which covered the $5 entry fee. thx
  14. I was referring to a single-post sticky that only Will & Mike could modify. ]Too bad you can't include the historical programs that were on the History Channel.
  15. Will, Why not make a sticky post somewhere with the entire list of contributors? That way you can access it quickly, for editting & reading, without having to read the entire thread. thx
  16. What happened to your switch? was it removed and a manual intenna installed? thx
  17. Stephen, I respect the "advice" people will offer here, because most of it is from first-hand experience, but some people tend to think that their advice is the ONLY good one, so you'd better take that it, and that's that. Dave suggests, "Take the advice and move on." Which advice? There were a number of them! Some people don't want to accept any reasonable discussion, called it a "debate," even if somebody has an idea that might work, or some related experience to involve. This is a sad thing from a people ("Americans") who consider themselves so much better than others. Closed minds. There's ALWAYS another way, but some people are afraid to try. I will try those things if I can. Now, if You don't mind, I'm going out to the car to get whatever is left on there, off. I will get some new ones. thx
  18. Reminder: Buy a pint of black shoe polish... :paranoid:
  19. No worries. I'm trying to keep it as stock as possible, but with my finances, I will have to settle for DD class. Occasionally, I might try another class if there don't seem to be many cars entered.
  20. Gary, Using dish soap or anything else that will wash out with water is not the thing thing you want for your wiper shaft boots. I can't imgine hy it was suggested. It's not the right thing.Everybody has their own thing they like. I will be using the correct thing, when I find it.
  21. I have a box with recipes for a bunch of skin lotions, soaps, greases, and other stuff. Many have the same basic ingredients.
  22. Skin lotions have the mostly the same stuff that dishwashing soaps have, but in different amounts.
  23. Actually Will, According to the juging rules, my car fits better in the DD class, because it allows most customizations you would want, within limits (because it's supposed to be a street car.) Not all mods will get you penalties. thx
  24. Doesn't it wash off eventually? You'd have to re- apply the stuff depending on the weather.I read that lanolin is good for preserving rubber parts, so I think a skin lotion with lanolin in it work about as well. thx

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