TomoHawk

Instead of the oven, how about a heat gun? This stuff would be great for touching up emblems, door handles, and other small stuff. Maybe the interior chrome stuff.

I found these clip-on markers on eBay. Remember that you need two sets- one set for the dizzy end and one est for the spark plugs. You might have to order two sets. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Taylor-Vertex-clip-on-7-8MM-spark-plug-wire-markers_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33692QQihZ015QQitemZ250161845218QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

When I got my car, the front wheels would shake at 30 & 60 MPH. The steering rack bushings were dried up & loose. Get yourself some new ones & install yourself- take 30 minutes.

What plating? The tubing I have looks like just plain (dull or satin finish) steel. I haven't seen any steel tube in the autoparts store with any kind of plating, but chrome would be nice. thxZ

What are people doing to polish the various hard lines like fuel & brake lines? I've just been clamping the tube in a vise and sanding & polishing it lengthwise. First some 800 then 1000 grit sand paper, then fine steel wool and then some metal polish. thxZ

Since there are so many things on cars now, I'll bet there is a coating you could get that will protect the aluminum as well as allow heat to transfer to the air. According to the JTR book, the cast iron brake drums are better because they take the heat better and don't deform when you brake hard.

Stephen, If you just ignore reponses, or not discuss anything, then people who are researching this same thing will be at a loss. No discussion is complete without opinions from both sides. I haven't been able to inquire at the dealer yet, but I usually expect them to charge a little more. Sometimes you get lucky and you can get a good deal. the $15 you mention is a little better than MSA, but I originally expected to pay about $10 or less, each for new ones, or about $5 or less for boneyard parts. thx

Unlike most of you other obvious milionaires, I do not go out and spend money hand-over-foot on the first thing people tell you to buy. Especially when somebody suggests you go buy something that isn't what you want. And I dd look around. Z- catalogs, websites, even the local foreign auto parts boneyard.

MSA has always been the most expensive source for Z parts, and I only buy from there if I can't find something from other sources. Also, the service guy thinks that the chrome ring should be available at more common places and for much less than $20 reach.

OK, moonpup, you spend $100 on little chrome things for two headlights and send them to me, and I'll be extremely satisfied. I'll even send you a Christmas card.

What is so special about the chrome headlamp retaining rings that MSA sells them?

It see,s odd that you suggest getting this part that is common to most all 7-inch headlamps, from a specialty provider?

Mine don't look too nice, and are dinged, scratched & a little rusty. I would like to replace the chrome retaining rings, but they aren't in any of my catalogs. I believe a Z uses 7-inch round lamps? Where can you get the retaining rings for them? thxZ

Well, the door switch was flakey to begin with, so if the key-in switch wasn't working right, it would exaggerate things. I am also going through the electrical connections (still) and I have a list of things that will need to be replaced or investigated further ( like the trans kickdown solenoid.) But my radio now works reliably, since I repaired (replaced) the cheap plastic power tap the radio guy used. I need to get a new door switch(es) first, then see how things improve. thxZ

Is the key-in switch (for the theft -deterrent sfeature) part of the ignition switch assembly, or can it be serviced or replaced separately? My buzzer for the key-in doesn't seem to go off lately. The problem might also be from a bad door switch but I will probably want to install a new one first. thxZ

Good thing I don't have one then. a restrictor would also keep you from accidentally adding diesel oil, and probably anything else- kerosene? Plus, they seem to have a kind of screen inside which would prevent somebody from pilfering (siphoning) gas from your car. Remember putting sugar in somebody's gas tank?

I have seen exhaust manifolds that have an aluminum coating on them, so I think that aluminum-coated headers might be nice. They will probably look a lot like thte Jet-Hot coating. thxZ

Actually, on a 280Z, I'd rather take something away- about 1000 Lbs. of weight! I've been in cars weighting a little less than 2000 Lbs. and they seem like they are more nimble than the Z because thay don't have all that much weight to throw around. So if a 280Z weighed about 1800 Lbs., then that would be great, IMO. thxZ

Carl, I stopped to gas up at that same gas station I saw the leaded gas pump at two weeks ago, and that pump is still there. I really don't think it's for avgas, as it 's at a gas station on a busy suburban road 15 miles from the nearest airport. thxZ

I noticed a fuel pump labeled LEADED the last time I tanked up my DD. then I checked all the nozzles on that pump to see if there was a difference in size, because of the possibility of one grabbing the wrong one. I even asked the gas station attendent if they sold LEADED GAS, and he said Yes. thxZ

Is there a way one can add the unleaded gas nozzle restrictor to the filler neck on a 78 280Z? They way it is now (stock) you could fit any nozzle in there- unleaded, leaded, diesel... Or you could fit a siphon tube in there too. :eek: thxZ

OK, I gotcha. I'll let the pump click off myself, then add a little more carefully. I got a little shock when I looked down the filler neck the last time and I saw the top of the gasoline! I guess the 280Z doesn't have the junk screen or the little hole for the pump nozzle like new cars do. Better be careful not to stick in the leaded or diesel nozzle! thxZ

What do you mean by "the pump clicks off?"thxZ

That's funny!BTW, could someone post the cavuum diagram fior the engine on a 78? If there's onw on the underside of my hood, then the PO covered it with undercoating. :hurt: thxZ

Higuys I checked my fuel gauge last summer by driving up & down the freeway when I was close to empty with an extra gallon of gas with me. When it got very close to E, I got off the highway and drove around in the burbs until the engine just started sputtering. Then I put in the gallon and went to the next gas station. On my car, Empty was right at the E, or just a hair after. This shows that it's importantto keep the electrical connections for the fuel gauge in very good condition so the gauge reads correctly. I would like to know more about getting the the warning light to work. All I know so far is that one wire to the light is hot with the ignition. thxZ