TomoHawk

You must be having some fun trying to talk into your handheld CB with that stiff antenna cable connected directly to it.

How can you get a set of "struts" for $350 when one single strut goes for $350 - $650? Are you people sure you're talking about the right part?

I have a set of Motorolas, and a set of Cobras, and something cheap fir the kids. It's the same deal with every radio. thx

I'll see if I can locate a manual headset. Maybe it's the little speaker on the FRS radios that make it sound bad.

Very good information, thanks. I'm going to keep the stock R-180 diff, and enjoy the ultra-low revs and fuel mileage on the highway.

Our club is leaning towards the CB rdios lately because the FRS radios really do seem to be "cheap," meaning that the range is too short for anything less than a tight caravan group, and the sound was really bad- especially if you have the volume high enough to drown out the Z's engine. I've tried a couple of the headsets, but either they couldn't handle the engine sound or the wind sound from the open window, or the radios were not working right, so as soon as you plugged in, they would start transmitting, and you had to turn it off to fix it. The only reason I could justify getting a (handheld) scanning CB is to scan the area where you are, say after you exit the highway to a town, or before getting back on, to locate locals for local traffic info , or for emergencies, when you just need to find the first person who could help. Do you mean GMRS radios? What's a license run? hard to get? What are you doing for the antenna on your handheld in the car? thx

That's the one. The bottom one (blue) is the 12V supply, and the other two (red & white stripe) are the up & down (280Z FSM page BE-74 - 77.) I forget which is which. Make sure the key is on before hitting the switch. FYI, the connector on the antenna itself will fit that, in case you have to. Try to get a dead antenna off ebay cheap, like I did. Then clip the connector, and put a SPDT monentary switch on it. I might have one more connector. thx

the 983 Maxima has the L28 engine in it, and a 4 spd auto with Overdrive & lockup torque converter, so I would relate it to a 280Z in mileage, and maybe speed, but according to this web page, it had a 3 spd trans with a final rive ratio of 3.54:1. It's probably the usual transmission ratios for a sedan. The only problem is that none of the web pages I read stated that the Maxima had a 4 speed trans. :hurt:

This is the car I'm considering for this project. I comes assembled with a radio, so all you'll need is to put in the charged batteries and put on the body. It's called a "truck," but it sure looks like a sedan BODY to me. The Traxxas line is all good stuff. It's not dirt cheap, but it's well made, and very affordable. Probably around $100 plus shipping (New.) Don't go out and buy one yet, unless you want to play with the car for a while. thx Here is an eBay auction you might check out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150105696608

Ill agree that the cars should be set up like good stock car ( but not as good as a stock Z) And people should go from there in their own way. Maybe even a moratorium on mods for a time, say until AFTER the Daytona show. If you are interested in very precise handling, you're going to need to put on some of the aftermarket suspension or steering parts. The stock cars beginner are fairly well engineered, but for the money we will probably be spending, things will be just a little on the cheaper side. But that means there's no reason why you shouldn't just leave the car as-is. I have several, including a monster truck that goes airborne & gets stepped on, and the only thing I ever changed was the receiver & batteries. AND, Like any other Z car, you'll want to get your hands dirty & play with or adjust stuff to suit! thx

I'm getting on for caravanning with the club. Do you consider it necessary to have a snanning capability, or is it just a fancy do-dad, since you don't switch channels while in the caravan? I like the Midland 75-785. A basic handheld CB with the 4-pin microphone connector. thx

The trans guy said he'll do it, but I think it was up to me to get the parts. I'm pretty sure I suggested that I get the parts through him, if he had connections to a place that will ship.

Things depend on the availability of body kits, but the chassis is up to the individual. I'm looking for a good source of RTR chassis that will work for about anyone, and not too expensive. I think a 4WD chassis is overkill, because the idea was a fun, 'scale' car anybody could build or afford, and that means 2WD with like a 540 cheapie can. If you have your own stuff, then you're probably mostly all set. thx

I'm just wondering... If any of you guys want to build your own r/c Z car, about how much would you want to spend on it? Consider that most car bodies are $15 - $20, how high would you go for the chassis? CHASSIS: A car frame with shocks & springs all around, A-arm front suspension & usually a straight rear axle w/ diff. The rear suspension may be of the independant type. Removable wheels ( to customise tires & rims.) RADIO: A fully proportional radio control system with variable speed forward ( and maybe backward), and real proportional steering. It also has the usual 7.2V NiCad car battery, and a pistol-type transmitter. Support equipment: A battery charger for the car battery is about all you'll need. Any more is optional, to taste. The dececent car chassis kits run $90-$120. The 240Z car prototype we are working on right now is totally up in design. If people want a $$9 chassis, I know where to get some, but the car will suck meaning it'll be "slow," and the steering will be like full-left, center, or full-right. The range would be about 100 - 200 ft, which might be OK, because you want to see where you're driving. The prototype Will & I are working on will have the 'good' chassis with 2WD, not the 4WD that people use for racing. It'll be fast. (so to speak,) Faster than "scale," but you can get used to it. The steering will be proportional, so you can go through a slolom course and just miss the cones, like in reality. Thst's the $100 chassis deal. thx

Maybe a silicone tube isn't the right thing for you, if you need a stock hose like the topic title says. It was just a thought as the stock ones are NLA.

What about those people on eBay that are offering the silicone vacuum hose kits? They claim to include every hose & tube under the hood... thx

I think you're right. the turn signals are over the bumpers too, like on a 280Z.

I tried the Toledo place last fall. the guy told me the price and I could pick it up in the morning if I wanted it. When I mentioned having it shipped, they hung up on me! :mad: :mad: How would I get a transmission in the trunk of my Ford Escort? There's no way I could even pick it up (too heave for me.) Will- I thought it was HI in the middle & round on the ends?

Maybe it was a Porsche!

I want to do the '83 Maxima transmission upgrade in my 280Z. Is there a place where I can order a transmission ( flywheel, driveshaft & wiring harness) from and maybe have it shipped to my transmission guy? I want to have overdrive for the trip to Daytona & maybe do some warm lapping! thx

To make things less noticeable, you might want to look into a small rocker switch instead of a toggle switch. They are practically flush with very little showing. Radio Shack should have one. Paint it black and people might not even notice it.

Neat. But "Datsun 260ZX in Out on Bail, 1989?" What's a 260ZX?

I have one or two bubble behind the rear wheel on the skirt.

If you wire it up like Gary said ( for an automatic antenna), you'll only need a toggle switch to put it up & down. So after you switch on the radio, a quick flip of the antenna switch puts it up. Personally, I don't see a reason to wear out the antenna motor & mast having it go up & down all that much. I only put mine down for the car wash, or when the cover goes on. Sometimes on the highway or in certain parking lots. thx

I have an entire BMW fuel injection harness (pretty much all of it.) I was thinking of unwrapping the harness from the resistor pack to take it off in one piece. Would that work? I'd make a measured jig, so I can solder the injector connectors to length, then re-wrap the whole thing. thx