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About 71ZZZZZ

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    240Z Series II-5 spd 4/71


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    En casa, El A

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  • About my Cars
    240Z 4/71

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  1. You could give Top End Performance a call: www.racetep.com/nissan.html (Is this is a triple carb setup on an L28?)
  2. Yes...this combination gave me a really nice street ride. Also upgrade to stainless steel brake lines. The Eibachs will lower your ride height but in a nice way. The frontend lifting may not be caused by the sway bars but saggy rear springs/shocks.You didn't mention what size wheels you're running...14s? Nice that you kept yours...
  3. Thanks for the tips guys...doesn't seem like I'll get stranded on this project. I'll be sure to label and take pics along the way. I'll be as careful as I can, good to know a timing baseline...once the dash is out, will the car start? I won't need to run it, it will be going on a flatbed to the painter.
  4. I just got a set of these as well...very close fit in my 4/71 and matches the coverage of the original part exactly. Did a dry fit on the driver's side. Will need to drill a couple of extra holes for the HSB box and the pin switch wires. I think I'll also anchor down the back part of the panels by the firewall to give a more solid mount for the speakers. Anyone who has installed these have any issues with vibration from the speakers? I was thinking about packing the pocket with acoustic polyfill. One good part about this mod is it gets you to look at the door hinge pockets...found some rust hiding in the upper pocket. The pin switch hole gives good access to the part of the frame for rust treatment. I found the JL Audio C2-525 C2-525 - Car Audio - Evolution® - C2 - Component Systems - JL Audio to fit right into the pocket. The trick is to make sure the magnet dimensions fit within the same as the Infinities Derek used. The 525 woofer magnets are only .5" deeper but still fit. A problem I've found is that the driver side tweeter will be slightly blocked by the remounted hood release cable. Will that affect the sound? I could switch to the 2-way co-axial version, it would be less involved wiring from the amp...I'm not going to be running big watts. I had component speakers in before and liked the clarity of sound. Overall a nice mod and will really improve my driver space once I'm done...thanks Derek! :bulb:
  5. Thanks for the reply, I should post after more coffee... I'm trying to follow the path of least resistance but I'm also following the rust. All I have left to get at is front trans. tunnel under the dash, firewall and rear deck. I need to replace the firewall insulator because it looks water damaged. I'll be doing a complete redo on the insulation/soundproofing. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't getting into a job bigger than I could manage in a weekend. Right...the A/C was the dealer installed option. I was asking about the evaporator unit that sits in the passenger foot area. I assume it's bracketed to the dash frame somehow but I'll need to look under there to see how.
  6. Found this: Classic Zcar Club - Removing Dash and Interior for Paint I think I answered #1...
  7. I'm rounding the bend on the interior refurb on my 4/71, doing rust treatment before repaint. I have the seats, carpet, jute, and insulation out. As expected found hidden rust and evidence of water pooling from outdoor storage (bad rear hatch seal, I think). Forunately I've found no rust-through, the insulation asphalt is so degraded in spots, it's flaking off by hand. A few of questions, I did a search but can't find the specific answer: Do I need to remove the dash to get at the front part of the trans tunnel and the firewall insulator? I have the factory A/C option, if I have to remove the dash are there extra mounting locations for the evaporator or can the A/C unit move with the dash? (A/C is uncharged...)? Can I pull the dash alone, or will I need a helper? As always, thanks for your collective help.
  8. I've had a Hayes flex fan on for many years...as you said, I've observed the flexing at high RPM and the blades don't seem to flex beyond the front plane of the fan. As far as extra noise, I've never heard anything usual.
  9. Hey acador, I'm thinking about this unit to replace a dead unit (from another maker) in my 240. I'm running a Mallory Unilite distributor w/Webers on a stock engine. Did you have to use one of the tach adapters to get your tach working? Did you actually adjust the timing at the distributor or the the CPU in the Streetfire did it? Did you upgrade to the Streetfire plug wires too? How's the performance/reliability now that you've had it installed for several months? Thanks for any info...
  10. I think I'll get one just as a safety measure, but the fire from this leak would have engulfed the car in short order... Got the new FPR on, the carbs are running very smoothly but now I'm thinking about the fuel pressure running to each carb. I read that Webers like 2.5 psi...with the stock fuel pump is the output pressure split somehow between the 2 carbs? With the electric pump and the old FPR I had it set for 5# (figuring 5#/2 carb = 2.5#/carb). Is this logic flawed? I suppose I could add a second FPR to really be accurate, but that seemed like overkill for what I'm doing with this car...
  11. Thanks Arne great link...interesting, mine don't follow your US pattern either, I don't think it's because I transposed the plugs in their fittings...(by "tail" you mean "running" light?) is there a safety/legal requirement for the pattern? I need to get insured once I get everything put together, curious if that is checked at the inspection... (just read Arne's edit, makes sense, my wiring may have been after the split...)
  12. ...been troubleshooting my lighting and haven't found this information in one place, anyone have a link to something similar? It seems that tail light patterns and bulb wiring configurations are different for 240s (obvious, right...) but subtle. I was searching for info that documented this. Found some interesting info... #1 - 4/71 (mine): L B/T/R (1034) | T/B/Haz (1073) R (1034) | Rev (1073) #2 - ebay set Unknown year (need to confirm lighting pattern): L B/T/R (1157) | T/B/Haz (1073) R (1156) | Rev (1073) #3 - '72 (http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/FSMs/240z/240z%20Tail%20Light%20Enhancements.ppt): L B/T/R (1157) | R (1056) T/B (1156) | Rev (1056) (flip the pattern for the R side, I'll try to find a better graphic) so I see differences where the running lights are placed and also the type of bulb for the upper inside element. On mine running lights are the outer two elements, although lower is only using the low side of the bulb, inside element bulb is a single filament. Can anyone confirm prod date for #2?
  13. Any of you use one of those inline circular fuel pressure regulators with the rotary pressure adjustment? I used to use one... ...years back I installed an electric fuel pump and this type of fuel pressure regulator to feed dual Webers on my 4/71. Just recently while troubleshooting my car, the regulator failed, causing massive leaking. I think there is some diaphragm arrangement under the cap. Since the car has been sitting for some time, I'm having issues with rubber fitting failures. This was not a subtle leak...the pressure from the fuel hitting the cap caused a spray that covered most of the right (battery, alternator) side of the engine compartment. I was trying to start it up and was having problems...it was because the gas wasn't feeding properly... I came really close to flaming on, losing the car and possible catching that side of the house on fire...I now have a Mallory 4207 on order (not a plug for Mallory, but more for any robust FPR) and the fuel pump is unplugged until it comes. The 4207 is more complicated to adjust but worth the cost/hassle for safer fuel delivery ...BE CAREFUL WITH THESE CIRCULAR TYPES...
  14. hey decoy thanks for that link...I'm always amazed when you guys come up with answers to these questions ...I think I may actually all 4 of mine, gotta keep rummaging for the parts I "put away". I keep mine on, because they were on when I got the car, never thought that they werent supposed to be on the delivered cars but does that only refer to the tiedown hooks? There's a picture in the Haynes Owners Workshop Manual of the front with only the left tow eye mounted...
  15. Interesting thread...I'm reassembling now and found the tow eye, and 2 cast hooks. I'm sure I took pics but as I recall the tow eye was in the front on the driver side and the 2 hooks were in the back attached to the bumper mount...
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