TomoHawk

I used a heat gun to strip mine, and painted it with bedliner stuff, which comes out with a leather-like texture, and looks nicer than the vinyl stuff anyway.

Do you mean the little doors that are on the heater outlets on either side of the console, by your feet? Mine are fixed. If you mean the selector flap inside, then it may not be moving enough because of an old dashpot. The flap itsef may have worn edges and not seal enough to guide the air properly. My selector doesn't click into the notches at all. I think there's a spring-loaded thingy that gos into the notches? Mine is totally missing and I would have to fabricate something, but have no photo or diagram to go on. Can you please explain what you've got or get some photos, because I can't find any photos of what is supposed to be there. thxZ

Would you put gasoline with Ethanol (E-85, IIRC) in an L28? I got a $100 gas card, and it would last a couple months for me if I could use it.

V-8 engines have features like 2-bolt main bearing, 4-bolt main bearings, webbed reinforcement of the cylinders, more oil return passages, etc. Is there anything like that in any of the L24/L26/L28 engines to make certain ones desirable?

Thank for the picture, Arne, but it still doesn't tell you the I.D. of the clamp. Assuming "car batteries" manufactured for use in the U.S. all have the same post dimensions, I will have to conclude that the "positive" clamp is either a universal fit or it is supposed to fit onto a "positive" battery post, and so forth for the "negative" one.

There was no mention of battery post size.

Do they have the different-sized ends to properly fit the battery terminals, or do they just use a universal-type end? Also, will those ends break after a few times of loosening & tightening? Mine keep cracking after a few times.

Mitchell- How do you get to the bulbs in the tail lights with that speaker panel in?

we need to put the Got Search smilie in the collection!

The key that came with the lock has a different pattern of slots on the two checks. It uses a different key blank. I was told before the the locksmith that you can't change that.

The '240Z' lock works, even though it's not the exact same thing that was on the car. I decided to try it for fun to see what difference there was, and there isn't any accept the key. I just took the arm off the old lock, put it on the new lock, then the E-clip, and installed the lock on the door. It worked great. Too bad the key is different.

I just got a "new" driver's-side lock for my 280Z from the dealer. I watched the parts guy look it up on the computer when I ordered it a week ago, and the number he wrote down matched the one I found on my microfiche CD, for my model and year. What I found in the bag was a lock for a 240Z.It had the short arm with the plastic keeper, and the early key. Is that correct? If it really is the proper lock for a 280Z, and the old arm fits, I think I can live with having 2 keys for the car if absolutely necessary, but would rather keep the car working as it originally was supposed to. thxZ

for vintage/antique car shows, which includes the classic Z, the judging manuals want you to display the owner's manual, if you have a good one, on the passenger seat, as well as any other documents relevant to the car. I don't usually go to those tho. In any case, I don't think I would allow anyone to open the glove box themselves, and at your local car show (with judging) they don't even look in the glove box. thxZ P.S. (Will) everybody likes the Z key chain you sent to me.

So the music video will be a little later in getting published.

I looked through he FSM (Emission Control.pdf) for the '78 and it doesn't discuss the carbon canister much. It has the information for the canister filter on page 25, but that page is the copyright information.

It seems peculiar that mr. ghibli is just now asking for the car. You'd think that they knew they would need the car a while ago. That is, unless he 'just now' discovered the CZCC.

the ZCCA judging rules allows only the proper owner's manual to be in the glovebox for judging, but it doesn't say what is allowed in the centre console. I just keep a notepad & pencil in there, and the notepad was cut so it fits in just right with the pencil between it and the side, so it doesn't rattle. I also keep the tyre pressure gauge in there, but I would remove that for judging. Fair enough? thxZ

Thanks. I looks like it would work.

After you take the door panel off, you are left with the panel fasteners still in the door. Is there a tool to remove the button-part that goes in the keyhole slots? A screwdriver breaks the buttons, so a proper tool is a better alternative than buying more fasteners. thxZ

There is NO mention of a remote trigger. It says "remote starter" and after showing this (I printed it) to several mechanics and a couple other auto people, that is what each has said. Things needed to be more clear. Thanks hogie for getting back on-topic.

I sent this topic to an auto mechanic friend, and he said the same thing I said; one of the wireless remotes. I told him the OP was asking about the switch you hook up to the starter, and he told me it wasn't that obvious.

The OP's question was too vague or just not properly defined.

Why a remote starter?? Instead of people seeing an empty car starting by itself, I'd rather have people see me in the car smiling as it turns over with a little soot out the tailpipe, maybe.

That and a couple new door locks will make for a perfect start to the car-cruise season! thxZ

)The DeOxit products (D-5 and D-100) are made specifically to remove the oxidation and lubricate electrical contacts, and work better than WD-40. WD-40 was designed to displace water.