AZ-240z

B is for hood release cable A is for speedometer cable Heater hose holes - Yes A/C hose holes - Yes And, if you as asking the purpose of the hole in your third picture, it appears to be in the firewall on the passenger side and was probably used for a drain tube from the A/C evaporator mounted under the dash. What is the vin # of your car. I am guessing it is a late '70 to early '71 series 1 with a vin between 15000 to 20000. Good luck. Dan

Dan, glad I could help. In restoring my car, I have found that generally there is no "definitively correct" in many situations. As your vin # is not super-early, I would be very comfortable in using that single "service Instruction" decal shown in the link I mentioned. As you had said, your carb setup has no "adjust screw C" which rules out the large tuneup decal, and without the snorkel carb heat, the other two decals are eliminated. So, in my humble opinion, you would be correct either using the single decal or no decals at all. It all depends on the vision you have for your car and preferance for decal under-hood eye candy. Good luck with your project. Dan

240dkw, I am going to make an educated guess about what would be correct for your decal. My first guess is that your air cleaner may not have had the snorkel decal or the tune-up decal, but just had the single maintenance decal. see this thread forhttp://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/23843-question-air-box-sticker.html by way of explanation. My second guess would be that possibly your air cleaner housing did not have any decals at all. It has been said that very early, ie., 1969-70, car had no decals. I just did an advanced search for "air cleaner decals" and came up with a lot of good reading. Dan

Blue, you could put all I know about electrics on the head of a pin. Most of the time, my responses to these threads are more a question looking for clarity. The stock positive battery cable clamp had a plastic cover protecting this cable terminal in the event the battery came loose and the positive post came in contact with the inner fender. Dan

JDM-CAR-PARTS.COM has had these hoses reproduced and offer them for $75 with free shipping. Dan

Blue, I have always assumed that the purpose of this rubber insulator was to cushion the battery frame/firewall surfaces, and prevent damage to these surfaces. The long J-Rod that secures the front side of the battery frame to the battery tray doesn't have any isolators, so, I never thought of this rubber insulator as something meant to electrically insolate the battery frame from the body. The bolt sold at Banzai has a large flat washer to help hold the insulator firmly in place, and this rubber insulator is partially split so as to fit over, and protect, both sides of the battery frame mounting tab. Let me know what I am missing as I don't mean to mis-interpret what you meant. Dan

You could buy the same item from Banzai Motorworks for $13,and, for another couple bucks, get the correct machine screw. I guess you have to figure out if it is part of the vision you have for your car. I put one on my car because it was an original part for a factory correct restoration.

Hi Matt, I am almost certain that the hatch hinges along with the hinge shims and hinge seals were mounted on the car, without the hatch, and painted at the factory. Two things I do know for certain are, the hex head phillips machine screws that securing the hinges to the body ARE PAINTED. The two flat head phillips machine screws that secure the hatch to the hinges were NOT PAINTED. This can be seen in the picture attached in siteunseen's post. I had done a lot of research when restoring my car to verify the finish of these machine screws. Some of my reasoning to come to this conclusion is, had the hinges been painted separately, or mounted without the seals during the factory painting process, the process of putting those hinges on the car, or mounted unpainted seals after painting the hinges, would have probably marred the hex head machine screws in the process of installation. Knowing that these particular machine screws were indeed painted, they would have needed to be repainted or retouched ( not a very efficient process to me). Hope this helps. Dan Original Owner/hls30-20419/ Gold Medallion Curses, you beat me again, Arne!

There doesn't appear to be any type of seal. The e-brake handle bracket looks like it just bolts against the outer tunnel. Nothing shows on the parts diagram.

If you were to restore these lines to their original finish, they would need to be replated in yellow, or golden, cadmium or zinc. As this would be very expensive, another option would be to paint all of these lines. Eastwood sells a Golden Cad System to include Gold, Red, and Green Tint aerosol paints and a Diamond Clear for additional protection. Just an idea, but you can check it out at eastwood.com. Dan

looks like it could be the wiring for the emergency brake light on the dash.

I'll have to second this method as I had a NOS glove box and didn't want any blemishes on my resto! Just remove three or four machine screws and the fan motor and attached plenum drops right down. Be careful not to let the mounting tabs scrape or gouge anything in the process.

Banzai Motorworks, Banzai Motorworks also sells the single piece outer rear deck weatherstrip. There parts are top quality.

I checked my parts catalog and there was a change in the overriders for build dates after 7/72. Other than knowing that the newer overriders were somewhat wider after 7/72, I couldn't tell you what other differences might be involved. I would check your build date and the part numbers on the rubber pieces you acquired. You may have earlier rubber parts for the later overriders. Hope this helps.

Hi Ken, I went into the garage and measured my J-hook location, which should be real accurate. From the center of that top chrome phillips oval head machine screw that secures the top of the seat back bracket to the center of the small phillip self tapping screws that fastens the small J-hook to the outer side of the seat back measures exactly 8 1/2". Hope this helps, and good luck. Dan

JLP, Banzai sells repros in there catalog. Knowing Mike, I am sure they are very accurate reproductions. Dan Jerry, found what may be a picture for you but only good for correct location as the decal is pretty much toast. Go to "OK inspection decals" thread and check post # 4 by Mike B.

This car looked very familiar, Alan. Finally found an article with pictures in my copy of "All About Fairlady Z" published in 2005. Also nice pictures, but text is in Japanese, unfortunately.

In the grand scheme of differentiating between series 1 and series 2 cars, my car probably isn't A-typical but thought I would add to show the vague transitional differences. This bulkhead in my 1/71 series 1 car, one of the very last series 1 cars, has two pressed square indentations, not holes, with the two tool cover securing tabs above these indentations as shown in 26th-z attached pics.

Remove the nuts from the rear mounts, first. Those are the most difficult to remove. If you removed the front mount nuts first, the seat will have a tendancy to teeter backwards making holding seat and removing the rear mount nuts a little more difficult.

Nice, Jerry. I really didn't think they were for your '72. I think you are exactly correct. Although I don't know the cutoff date, some newer hardware does seem to have capture washers on many fasteners. I have also found that some newer hardware, even with the correct part numbers, may have a different profile, ie., indented? head as opposed to flat heads with correct torque strength number. Having some of those early fasteners replated in the correct yellow zinc (also very anal-retentive, here) stand out like little jewels; very rewarding. Dan

Jerry, what car is all of this hardware for?

Good question. Also, has the radio delete little storage pocket.

Jerry, I usually withhold an opinion unless I am quite certain about a resources quality, so am glad Mike's goodies have helped you in the past. By the way, Les did an outstanding job on your car. Well worth the wait I am sure. My car was with Pierre-Z for more than three years, results not as good as I had anticipated, but enjoyed more than you can image the fun of making it everything I had wanted in the next 10 year. And, thanks to you, some of your parts helped make it perfect. You are defintely, going to ENJOY THE RIDE! Dan

Jerry, In my opinion, the source for the most correct reproduction labels are found at Banzai Motorworks. I will admit to being somewhat biased as Mike McGinnis at Banzai does sell a couple of the decals which I reproduced for my car. Those are the mastervac and hazzard switch decals. He is very meticulous and I had to meet his high standards. Take a look at his website www.zzxdatsun.com, look at what he offers, and give him a call. He is extremely knowledgeable and glad to help. FWIW Dan