26ounce

The rust I am referring to is from the top. The previous owner had work done removing cutting the serious rust out and replacing it with metal, as well as putting in new floor pans. Unfortunately, it was also resprayed white (used to be blue) and there are some problems with the job. There are noticeable cracks in the paint, and the paint seems to chip off any edges quite easily. Rust is forming in all these cracks and chips. Now that I read your post however, I will go back and check all the backs of the panels where possible.

Very informative thread this one. My thanks to the contributors. Just a question to EScanlon and anyone else who may have some good advice; My 260Z is suffering from a dodgy paint job, it looked good when I first bought it, but now there is rust coming through on most of the panels (I've only had it for 6 months). I really wanted to do the mechanical work first but the way the rust is appearing it looks like I have no choice but to do the body work immediately. Is there a reasonable way I can temporarily patch up the body to stop the rust, a quick fix so I can do the mechanical bits and postpone the body work until I have saved enough cash to do it right. Could I just strip off small rusty areas, paint over with POR-15 and then bondo and paint to match the rest of the car?

Hey Ozlime, Can't help you much myself, but if you check the following site it has some numbers that might be useful for comparison... http://www.zcarclub.com.au/dyno_night.htm

Aussie SU servicing company.. http://www.sumidel.com/

Wow $12.5K, now that is getting pricy. I'm assuming it had probably been stripped down and totally repainted for that price. In terms of lokking for Zs in WA, I only check the quokka and Sunday times. If any other local source compares to these two I'd be very surprised. Some other local Z people I've spoken to are of the opinion that most 240Zs are sold thru word of mouth. ie If you see a 240 somewhere go and have a yarn to the owner and leave you details with them "just in case". Another offbeat plan is to try out in the country. There seems to be an outward movement of cars into the country as they get older and cheaper. If you occasionally check the regional papers from Albany, Kalgoorlie, Geraldton etc you might get lucky. Kalgoorlie would be good, pretty dry out there!

Hey halz, You still holding out for a 240Z? If you are at all interested in 260s, there were about 3 new 260 coupes in the quokka this week. The most I've vere seen at one time in WA. All seemed very cheap (2K or thereabouts), but the way they all said "good restoration project" is a bit worrying:ermm: Might be worth a look though.

Well at least they were reasonable about having the cameras visible hawaiiankine. As halz was saying, here in Western Australia they hide the speed cameras. Usually in a place where the natural speed is a lot higher than the actual posted speed limit. If thats not bad enough you can now get booked for 5km/h over the limit. They forced this on us while knowing that most car speedometers are only accurate to approximately 10%. They then send you a fine thru the mail (you can pay over the phone by visa now - how convenient!). If you want to see the actual photo you have to pre-arrange to go into a cop shop and see it. Still it gets worse - they then had the brain wave that they were driving their most profitable drivers off the road thru demerit points, once you get 12 demerits you are off the road for 3 months or so. So they doubled the fines and halved the demerit penalty for speeding offenses, thus increasing revenue. In terms of driver attitude and law enforcement the damn things are absolutely meaningless. Everyone I know considers it to be "bad luck" to get caught by a speed camera.

Well after some time looking around the internet while supposedly at workLOL I think I have answered my own question. The G60 used an old pushrod 6 Cylinder motor called the P40 with 1 barrel down draught carb. It was about 4 litres in capacity. The diesel engine used in MQ patrols is an SD33 not an LD28 so I'm assuming that is not of much use to any of us. The SD33 does also come in a turbo charged form for what it's worth. Both the petrol fuelled MQ & MK patrols used the L28s, initially with a 2 barrel down draught carb, then later I think it came with EFI (not to sure about that though). As for diffs, some of the old nissan/datsun 4wds seem to have either an R180A or an R200A front diff. Got no idea what the "A" means. The rear diff being a C200, or H190. So i guess they are only a source of an L28 and not much else.

I have just stumbled to the conclusion that early patrols may be running L series motors(definitely MQ, maybe G60) . Has anyone bothered to have a look at these 4wds as a parts donor. For all I know they could also have R200 diffs also. I'm just wondering whether patrols might be a good source of L6 parts. I've heard a few people have swapped V8s into their MQs so there might be some cheap motors out there that go unrecognized by the Z crowd. Also, did the MQ ever come out with a turbo charged diesel L motor. I seem to remember seeing one advertised as turbo diesel but I don't know whether it was an L motor or not. If so, would the turbo and manifold be any use to a petrol L motor?

Just out of interest carguyinok, why did you go with the separate fuel cell option? Does the 280Z FI tank not fit into a 73 240Z?

Gotta love those rear whell flares. I may be biased but i reckon the Z shape looks heaps better with a set of flares on the back.

Hey, I really like that second last one Mr Camo. Kind of looks like a cross between a Z and an american muscle car. While I'm here I'd also like to thank the man that invented mag wheels and low profile tyres.

Just for my information, what is the difference between street racing and a fast take off from the lights? Heaps of times I've stuck the boot in at the lights to beat someone but tapered off around the limit or thereabouts. Does it become street racing once you are travelling more than twice the speed limit? or what?

His neighbour did do some pretty funny stuff. My favourite was the rock on the table feature in his front yard!:stupid: All the same though, I'm glad the guy writing the website is not my neighbour. I'd be inclined to build a 9 foot fence between us.

Thanks 260z that is a great link you posted. My 260 also has SUs fitted to it from some unknown source. The throat is slightly smaller than a 240Z SU. Hopefully with that site I can figure out where the heck they came from, at this stage all I know is that they were made in England. Do you know what modifications they make to the Volvo SUs to make them work fro a Z?

For any WA people out there looking, there is a 240Z in the quokka this week for $7K. I don't think it is stock because it has a close ratio manual box.

I'm glad you started this post halz. Being somewhat isolated out here in WA makes it important to share Z info and contacts. As for being miserable, I completely agree with your list of points. I was lucky to find a two seater so I have now progressed from (a) to (. Now the grim reality of my rpoject is starting to hit home.

I'm with 72zcar & ionman. If the Z car is a well maintained original and has historic value (ie early production number or something) I would not support a V8 swap. Having said that I reckon most V8 swaps are cool and I am constantly amazed by the ingenuity and dedication shown by some Z car owners who modify Zs to their own interpretation of an ideal machine.

They are very similar up until the 280ZX was introduced (79 I think). Apart from the engine displacement the main differences are that they get progressively heavier as the model progressed and you can get the 280Z with fuel injection. The L series motor is pretty durable and you can get stock parts relatively easily. Since I bought my 260Z I have driven it to work daily with no problems apart from a dead battery so I reckon the reliability is excellent for a car thats old enough to drink. It's probably better if you try and find a body with the minimum amount of rust than just go for a Z with a good motor. Rust is the main problem facing the survival of most Zs.

Top stuff Owen:classic: That dash looks like it is pretty good nick, actually all the interior I could see looked reasonable. Hate to guess what the seats look like under those seat covers though. I'm guessing that since it is auto the engine is pretty stock then? Looks like you have a project on your hands. SO whats the plan then: retsoration or modification?

I'm 90% sure it is sure wiper pivots. They get filled with corrosion and eventually seize. Have a look under the technical articles where kmack has posted an outline of the fix. note: when you put the wiper assembly back together make sure you test it before bolting the wipers arms back on. It is easy to put the assembly together incorrectly so that the wipers scrape down across the bonnet instead of the up across windcreen.