Diseazd

I was at those Road Race of Champions races in Atlanta.........I couldn't buy a Z fast enough after seeing John Morton burn up Road Atlanta!!!! You should have heard the Z's and 510's coming through the ess's......they were always in front!!!!

Josh.......I like your first idea.....a leak in the front cover behind the water pump (caused by electrolysis). It's easier to check than pulling the head, and a good place to start. Head gasket leaks are many times accompanied by white smoke from the exhaust! Pull the water pump and check her out. If that ain't it.......pull the head....It's usually the #6 cylinder that leaks. Guy

All you need to do is jack up the radiator cap and put a new car under it!!!!:

NOTA 280-You better order some of Todd's(Wolfcreek) CV drive shafts......You're gonna need them! Guy

Ditto Wolfcreek Racing.....they do a nice rebuild at a good price and don't keep them forever!

Landed my dogleg......It was cut from a rust free quarter for $250.00. A place in Oregon called Danny's Datsun. He did a great job of describing, cutting, packing and shipping! Now the only thing that I need to complete my parts inventory is a perfect restorable (dent free) front bumper. Guy

I called BlackDragon......The early bumper is not OEM, it's a knock-off. It may be a good knock-off, but still not original.

Thanks Doug......wonder why the early bumpers (70-72) that BlackDragon sells are so much more expensive....like $499.00 vs $150.00? Has anyone ever purchased the early bumper from BlackDragon, and if so, are they OEM ? If not, are they a good copy? Guy

Rick....Thanks for your reply....Yes it puzzled me why the 260 bumper was so much cheaper than the 240. Was the quality good? Do you know if was an OEM or a knock-off? Thanks Guy

That is a sweet price to pay........I think you can probably rechrome one for 1/2 that price, but it's tempting to get the real deal. Thanks Doug

The tool is cheap.....buy one!

Anyone know where to buy a new front bumper for a 1971 240Z? Has anyone bought one from Black Dragon and if so, how was it?

When you get them off BlackDragon has new replacements.

Carl.....We understand that, and Chuck was perfectly willing to use Tabco if that was the last resort. However , he preferred the real thing and if I could provide them I wanted to. This car is going to be special as I think you can tell by the restoration thread.(look at the perfect circles in the front radiator panel where he welded the front clip). I agree that an expert body man can save time and of course you know the results will be perfect. I wouldn't use anyone else. He's within weeks of finishing the final body work and laying on paint. You're gonna like what you see. Thanks for all of your help. Guy

I agree with Jon......Unless you really don't feel like it's yours if you don't do it yourself, I would buy someone else's resto, because you'll probably never get your money out of a good resto but remember you can buy someone else's for pennies on the dollar. There have been a dozen or so Z's on ebay this year that were immaculate for under $30,000.00.

Don't worry Arne....If you subtract my owes from Brandon's owes, it's a very large number of net owes for him! Guy

Roger at the Z Barn. www.ZBARN.com By the way, when you get the new one, you just light the rubber bushings on fire with a torch and she will burn up like a flare. Do it away from civilization as it makes a mess! Wire brush the inside mess and your new Teflon will fit as new. Good Luck

There is a metal sleeve that was pressed out that should have stayed! You're supposed to burn out the bushing with a blow torch and leave the metal sleeve in. I am not aware if there is any way to fix it short of a new mustache bar. At least they are cheap and readilly available. Guy

Thanks Moonpup......I saw that and would love to chop it, but $650.00 is a little steep for a dogleg. The whole panel however is a steal for someone needing the whole quarter. Guy

Mike....Definitely go poly (IMO). Just make sure when installing the bushings that you coat them with silicon grease, otherwise they will squeak on you. The poly on the rear inner control arms will also help eliminate the dreaded rear clunk!

It could possibly be bad bushings in the distributor shaft. Grasp the rotor while still in the distributor and shake back and forth for play. Also, did you check for broken point connection (small wire in distributor) they get pinched and can short out. That would be a $1.00 fix. Let us know where you stand. Guy

Jay.....Your problem is most likely adjustment in the choke cables. Get a buddy to pull the choke lever back while you are looking under the carbs to make sure the chokes are engaging properly. You shouldn't have to "pump her up " each time she sits! Also as the "Just SU's" tape will show you, make sure they are closing when you push the lever forward!

Sorry Jimmy.....I missed the GTR......you win 2nd!!!!!!

JimmyZ.......You win the contest hands down!!!! I've got to have one for my garage......awesome!

Bruce is dead on.....you could end up with a leaky exhaust gasket.