Diseazd

Next to the S30’s, the absolutely best looking Z ever made.

I’m not much on electrical issues (I leave that up to Steve), but when I swapped a manual into my automatic 73, all I did was join the two park lock-out wires at the tranny together and was good to go. The throttle linkage out of the firewall was another small issue, but easy to solve.

I agree…..Most of the oil pressure gauges seem to read low, especially at idle. Unscrew the the oil filler cap on the valve cover when she’s running. You’ll make a mess if she’s got oil pressure. 🤪

Hi Carl……I think I heard that same story last month in person LOL.

That’s him…..I never saw his basement stuff, but understand he had some OEM door cards and fenders. BTW, there was a Z junkyard I believe in Tennessee called the Z Barn. I think he had 40 or 50 Z’s that he would part out. I bought a bunch of stuff from him. Wonder what happened to those cars?

I know who you are talking about, but can’t remember his name. He had 2 storage units full of parts sold to another Z owner in Richmond. When he died also, his son sold the parts. I got there 2 days later after it was picked over pretty good. I bought a number of parts including a F54/P79 engine, series one steering wheel and some window lift mechanisms. Nothing to really impress, but at one time he had a ton of NOS stuff. I built a Z shed, 8x12 for my stuff……keeps it out of my garage.

Looks perfect. Put a timing light on it. I would suggest 12 to 17 degrees BTDC compression stroke.

Wow…..”Now that’s an RV Clark!”

Yep @siteunseenDoc was awesome. I used to spend hours in his shop just listening and learning. He’s the one that convinced me to only use Japanese reground camshafts….preferrably by Isky. Only time I ever broke in a new motor with a non Japanese blank, this happened after 100 miles. I was using Isky performance springs and the metal just wasn’t “up to snuff”.

Like Zed Head says…I would definitely recommend new or remanufactured rockers to break in a new cam. Delta Cams does a great job remanufacturing old rockers. You want a smooth surface to break in that cam. You probably can reuse the lash pads, but I would check the wipe pattern always……just to be sure.

I’ve never used a Comp Cam, but .420 lift is pretty much a stock camshaft.

The Clemson sweatshirt was a dead giveaway! I love this guy’s determination……another Z saved from the crusher. It’s for his wife……doubt if she’ll be taking it to the track.

If it’s a 73, they came with valve relief pistons. If it is from a 73, the E88 head was an open chamber head which it seems to be. Like I said before, I’m pretty sure that head came with an L28 exhaust valve and early L24 intake valves.

Looks like the PO replaced the valves in the number one cylinder. The exhaust valve in the number one appears to be an L28 valve…..looks larger than the rest. The block definitely needs a boil out……looks like the PO filled the radiator with saltwater lol…….I can’t imagine why it’s so rusty. Regarding the exhaust valve…….could just be an illusion. If the head is a late E88, I believe they came with the larger exhaust valves.

I wouldn’t use the Schneider cams, only the reground original cams ground by Isky or some other regrinder. There have been metallurgical problems with the blanks ( not Schnieder’s fault ). You can use the early L28 valves, but you’ll have to install new seats. You are correct on using shorter seals if the lift is over .460 inches and comp springs (prevents stacking) and correct lash pads (.160 to .180). I highly recommend the Stage III Isky regrind .490 lift…..it ain’t that radical. You can get their springs and lash pads too when you mail them your original camshaft for grinding.

Depends upon if it is a solid cam or drilled. Which is it? Also, if I recall, anything on an L24 cam with over .460 lift requires a shorter valve seal to eliminate valve retainer contact with the higher lift cam.

Beautiful car Mike…..glad to see you’re still working your magic. Regards Guy

Keep the SU’s…..this video of Eiji (triples) vs me with SU’s. Both are stroker motors, but Eiji with more motor, but still competitive. I love ny SU’s. IMG_2617.MOV

Check the u joints on the driveshaft?

Crazy how it goes away. Speedometer cable possibly bad? A worn crank rear bushing can cause transmission noise.

Great job Steve…..I changed points once and the car wouldn’t fire. Took me 20 minutes to figure out that there is a little piece of protective paper between the new point contacts……🤪

Hi Charles…..It’s a durable clear, rock hard coating that seals the tank. I highly recommend it. Guy

When you get the tranny square to the block 1 to 2 inches opening equally all around, thread a long head bolt through two of the holes for the 4 tranny bolt holes and thread into the block. Then you know that you are aligned and it will slide right in. I believe if I remember correctly, you only have room to thread 2 in. This will guide your tranny right in……I’ve personally never had problem with the clutch alignment tool…..it’s always been a frickin PITA to man handle the engine without making sure everything is lined up squarely. This assures that it is!

The shock inserts sometimes fit a little too short for the gland nut to snug them tightly in the strut. A spacer (large washer) is usually provided with the shocks to shim the shock so that it locks the shock firmly in the strut. If you have any movement in that rod, it’s either the gland nut isn’t locking the shock snugly in the strut, or you’ve got a blown shock (even if new.) IMO

Get someone to push it down while looking at the linkage coming out of the firewall under the hood. The linkage could be rubbing against some other item ( Brake booster valve insulator.) That sometimes comes out of the sleeve and moves forward and can cause binding of the linkage.