DatsunZGuy

would put production at between 9/71-6/72.

I read somewhere that Chrysler Blue is the closest match to the Datsun/Nissan engine color of the period.

Found this using the "search" feature. This might help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13085&highlight=MSD+Ignition+installation

Welcome! Go to http://zhome.com/ and look at the 'Z Ownership' section.

FWIW...my orange (color code 918) '72 has sections of its radiator support painted black too. Also, while thumbing through Wick Humble's book tonight, I also noticed there are photos where it shows the radiator support painted black on his dark green project car as well.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12173&highlight=gold+award+240z It looks like a really nice car! Just as nice as a certain silver 1971 240z that is back on eBay again.

Hi onuthin, Back around June 2002, I spoke to the PO of the car. I wish I could give you more details, but I was looking at a lot of 240Z's at the time, and may get my facts regarding your car mixed up with the others. I ended up purchasing my current '72 orange Z from a guy in Kansas. This red car was going to be my fall back purchase if the deal for the orange Z fell through.

This picture is from the driver's shoulder belt, which has survived in the best of shape compared to the others.

I purchased a whole set from exhaust manifold back from http://www.courtesyparts.com about a year ago. The attached photo shows my old trashed muffler compared to the OEM replacement. Note the slight difference in the length and style of the chrome tip.

While in the process of taking some motorcycle parts to the powder coat shop, I decided to take apart my seatbelts and have buckles powder coated in black. I opted for a satin black finish as opposed to the original gloss black. I’m very happy with the way they came out, and also the fact they have a tougher finish than paint. In addition, while I had the stuff apart, I decided to wash webbing and re-stitch all the original seat belt tags again. Even the driver’s side lap belt tag was pretty well preserved despite over 30 years of use. When everything was ready to be put back together, I took my seatbelts to a saddle shop in town to have them sewn.

Ultimately…the choice is a personal one.

I went to the Petersen Automotive Museum yesterday and took a photo of the 1968 Bullitt Mustang. Sorry about the quality of the photo, but the mood lighting in the museum doesn’t lend itself to amateur digital photography. The Peterson Museum was my second choice. I actually drove 2 hours north to Sylmar, to see the Nethercutt Collection. I knew they were closed on Sundays, but didn’t figure they were closed on Saturday as well for the Thanksgiving holiday weekend. Oh well, next time I’ll know better.

This stuff is the bomb!!! http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm

ddezso- Good to hear all is well again! -Ed

I got the image off this website a couple of years ago before it was updated. For the life of me I can't find where it's posted now. Here's a copy: untitled.bmp

I think this the guy you're talking about. I took these photos at the MSA 2005 show last April.

No firsthand experience, but I do like Alfas and Fiats. My Dad had a 124 spider, which I loved to drive. Try this forum: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/index.php

Remove the boot from the #1 plug and hold it just off of the top of the spark plug. Crank the engine to see if a spark arches from the plug wire to the spark plug. You may want to wear insulated gloves while doing this. Flooded??? Is there a strong smell of gas in the engine compartment near the carbs? If so, it might be flooded. I learned a trick from a Nissan mechanic when my ’73 flooded in front of the dealership a few years ago. He told me to open my hood. Then, he proceeded to pull the boots from all six spark plugs just enough so that they rested just off the top of the plugs. Next, he had me crank the engine until it started. He told me to rev the car a few times and then proceed to snap the plugs back into place.

I few years ago I cleaned my engine and drove the car around the block. Next day, I started the car and it ran rough for a couple of days until the problem just went away on its own. Water has a strange way of messing with your ignition system until evaporation over time takes place. By the way, are you getting any spark when trying to start the car? Also, are you sure the carbs aren't flooded?

I would check the inside of the distributor cap for any signs of water condensation, which may have been a result of the engine running after the cleaning. Furthermore, I would keep the cap off and let the car set overnight before trying to start it again.

I too have a set of "240Z" logo rubber floor mats pictured below. http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=10097&cat=500&page=1 I seem to recall that the "Z" logo only floor mats came out later for the 260Z and 280Z models. Can anyone else confirm this?

I'm not really sure I want to know what part of the anotomy that is a close up of....

Try Seatz: http://www.seatzmfg.com/seatz/index.htm

Banzai Motorworks http://www.zzxdatsun.com/ One these decals might be what you are looking for: DE-13 Anti freeze info decal 1977-1978 $5.00 ---OR--- DE-08 Air conditioning service decal (If your car has factory A/C) 1974-1983 $7.00