zKars

Only way cam position is directly related to piston position is when they are linked together solidly. This only happens in normal rotation direction with no slack. TDC is only to be measured at the piston, not at the balancer notch/pointer or cam plate notch as this introduces sources of error between TRUE TDC at the piston and those indicating sites. Now all that said, depends on what you're trying to accomplish.

There are plenty of dipsticks around here! Someone can help you for sure. I'm just a bit short of SU cores at the moment....

Re clutch release collar, search on "92mm". This is the total height from flywheel face to place on release collar where the forks touch when you have the right collar. We have an extensive thread that verified this from several users. +/- a couple of mm is okay too.

Longer studs are determined by your choice of wheel and how you want them to sit in the fender well if you find you need a spacer to push them outward. The rotor position is only thing that is moved with the z31 rotor spacer for this upgrade. The hub still fits the strut spindle in exactly the same place, and the wheel mount surface (base of the wheel studs) does not move in or out with this mod. Only other "need for longer studs" I can imagine might be the need to get longer 10x1.25 bolts to put that new spacer between the rotor and hub if the spacers didn't come with new longer hardware. The stock ones are much too short to add that 0.663 spacer. s30_Toyota_frontRotor Adapte.pdf

Those spacers don't affect the wheel studs. Goes between the hub and rotor.

The 3/16 is the tank vent. Just take a look back at the tank where the hard lines turn into rubber going to the tank and vent. Should be self evident.

Fantastic project, definitely looking forward to the progress reports. Sorry no upholstry experience. I'm pretty sure the suitability and quality of the glue will be critical. Regarding the tach/speedo removal issue. If the leather is 1mm thick it will likely cause removal issues. The standard plastic dash covers are likely a bit thinner than this, and they more or less remove any chance of removing the instruments from the front. Now the fact that leather is soft "might" mean the gauges can be weasel'ed out with a lubricant and gentle prodding, but only trial and error will prove this one way or the other. not a show stopper, you can after all, always take the dash out! Good luck!

Do I have to give my speech again? You know, the one about "support our vendors and be thankful someone gives a damn to take these risks to support our hobby?" My soap box is right here, no problem stepping up and doing it again.

I've purchased the K&N washable filters for the air box and found them to be just a bit too thick with the stock gaskets on the housing. This is good and bad news. The K&N filters have rubber top and bottom rings, and thus if the gaskets are removed, the filters fit (and seal) just right! So, if your stock rubbers are shot, remove them and use the K&N filters. It's an E-2910 http://www.knfilters.ca/search/product.aspx?prod=E-2910 To no-ones surprise I'm sure, I have one good used internal gasket for a 70-72 filter housing hanging around if anyone wants it.

clipsandfasteners.com has some. Search for M6 SEMS or M8 SEMS and you'll find some goodies. SEMS is short for ASSEMBLED, its the keyword for your searches for sure.

Greasing bearings or ball joints or steering racks is not a perfect science. There is no flow path through and past each set of bearing cups, other than through a seal, and when you break a seal, any more you add goes straight out that seal. The best you can do is put JUST enough in until just before it breaks a seal, which is of course impossible to do. Like bolt torque. Torque it until it breaks then back it off a quarter turn. Do the best you can and add the least you dare. BTW, grease does not move in a joint due to motion or heat. It is designed to do exactly the opposite, stay in place. It only flows when frictional forces at the metal contact surfaces get the pressure/temp up enough to make it move/flow to lube the surrounding area. yes, putting grease in your front wheel bearing cover/caps to supply extra grease if the bearings run dry is silly. It just sits there in the cap.

Merry Christmas gang! Hope Santa gets you-all some Z happiness!

Nice tool. And well made. It's not new however. Lee Valley "invented" (copied?") one first. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=59452&cat=1,43456

Nice! This system does seem to a pretty good comprimise of price size and function when a full size hoist won't fit. Carl, do you find the cross bars that link the left and right halves get in the way when the lift is "up"? They are conveniently hidden in those shots. Are they easy to remove if you "had to"? They sure seem like they'd be right in the way of the diff crossmember and maybe the trans/engine connection point. Maybe if you could post a shot from underneath with the lift up to show where they are positioned it would help clarify. And did you have to use "that" Z in the shots? It's hard to concentrate on the lift! My eyes keep wandering all over that body, ohhhh baby.....

Never seen them on anyone's site. I think I have one in the bin, maybe its better than yours, but not likely by much... Steve at http://www.240zrubberparts.com/ is making such stuff, maybe you can convince him to add those to his collection, but he is concentrating on 240 parts pretty much exclusively.

Definitely move your 76 wiring and instruments over to the 77 dash frame. There are significant wiring changes in almost every year. Not worth the hassle trying to get everything sorted out. That said, all of the gauges in the 77 dash will work fine, but for a variety of reasons, like keeping the ODO to keep mileage continuity, you should likely just swap it all over.

And it is all part of the strut, can't replace just the spindle. Is it the threads that are screwed up or the outer bearing seat? Hard to tell from the picture.