zKars

I suggest just getting a new headlight connector pig tail and splicing it on. I see billions when I google headlight connector H4. Every generic auto parts store, ebay and amazon has them by the boat load. Just one example http://www.repairconnector.com/categories/HEADLAMP-CONNECTORS/ I believe this connector style Actually has the stock style FM connector pins. I have a few of those somewhere. Search for either H4 or 9003 style connectors

Clipsandfasteners.com. search for M5 SEMS M6 SEMS Etc....

4510 is tough to track down. The whole saler in canada will only sell it in 45 gal drums. I have to beg a local upholstry shop for it. Whatever spray you use, make SURE its rated for headliners. Heat will cause many of the sprays to fail.

Flat tops got to the place and reputation for three reasons. IMHO 1. Complexity. When they wear out, and they all do, rebuilding them was difficult. Kinda the same, keeping them in tune was also tricky. 2. Availability of the earlier simpler round tops. Why bother when something simpler and better is available, barring some polution law in your kneck of the kwoods that made you do it. 3. Rebuild kits were NLA for a long time. MSA has them again, I bought a set. I have a bushel of flat top cores if someone is wanting some.... Crickets...... I have previously expressed my admiration for the design of the flattops. While I threatened to build a set and show the na sayers some time slips, well, you know what happened. Too complex, time consuming and there are these fantastic folks at ztherapy....

Up until the last one, I was making the brackets from scratch. The last though I used bracket arms from vintage air. https://www.vintageair.com/brackets/ Then attached them to a plate I made that fits the four M10 block bosses.

Good morning. I'm in a mood of distracted boredom, and thought I'd start a rousing games of "why'd they do that?", 'they' being the factory. I have noticed on more than a half dozen odd Z's that I would say are relatively unmolested, that the six bolts that hold the wiper arm pivots to the cowl are quite surprising. Five are identical, one, the same one on every car, isn't. Here we see on the left side, that the inner, rear fastener is a round headed machine screw, bereft of even a lock washer, while all the other five are nice hex SEMS bolts with the expected lock washer. All are of course M5x0.8 thread. Right side, all is happy with three matchy matchy. As those of you who have had the pleasure of removing this lovely flock of fettid fluffy fasteners have experienced, it is not enough that 4 out of 5 of the bolts snap off, but you have to resort to vise grips to get that lone round headed bastard, rendering its head beyond repair for future use, causing all sort of consternation and wringing of hands. This was recently observed on 3798 (pics above) and on a 73, VIN 127xxx. Can't say for sure what other years I've seen, but a good sampling. Let the speculation begin. Why in the world would they use one odd bolt in that group of six in such a systemic way? I think the assembler was a clever prankster, and revels in the joy of imagining the future angst he/she will have caused. Well congratulations. It worked.

Don't forget I have 3798 for sale folks.... Numbers matching (except the dash, dang it..) Canadian edition. Most of the early stuff is there. Runs, drives, looks terrible. Rust is totally managable but very present. Alberta registration. Well 26 years ago.... I hate to put it on flea bay, but maybe I should, to get the exposure. I should make a proper for sale thread for it, shouldn't I? Only asking a mere $8K CDN, about $1.56 USD..... zkars.com/cars/1970_240z_HLS30-03798/

The feel is good. I have quite a heavy pedal with my clutch setup, but it is smoooooth....

Tough one to fix. Hatch alignment is a real bear. You can place a shim between the fixed threaded hatch mount plate and hinge, where the pair of flat headed philips bolts connect the hatch to the hinge. Make it out of shim stock or brass sheet. This will move the hatch toward the front of the car. Real fun to install. Use some crazy glue to hold the shim in place on the hatch plate while you get the bolts lined up while holding the hatch with your other three hands. Or use slotted shims that you stuff in AFTER you get the bolts in but not tight yet.

Where is your compressor mounted? If it's the monster York thing on the right side that surrounds the fuel pump, then all the engine threaded holes on that side are M8x1.25. If its mounted down low on the header side, those four threaded bosses on the block low down are M10x1.5mm As to length, get your tape measure out....

I find it cool to know that a thing such as the "Society of Fuse Engineers" exists. I wonder how I can join... "Glass fuses designed to specifications set by the Society of Fuse Engineers. All are 1/4 inch in diameter, but vary in length according to.."

Other than tube diameter (50mm vs 55mm) they are the same enough length and spring perch wise. If you want a 240 strut in decent shape instead, let me know. Calgary isn't too far away. Z240@shaw.ca

No problem using a larger pin. Just make sure it's hardened, ie don't use a bolt. Certain crazy people have even gone as far as inserting a bearing in the pedal hole for that velvety smooth clutch feel. They shall remain nameless, ok, me...

Sounds about right.

You're just running lean. If this is a new condition, I'd suspect your fuel supply has been comprimised. Dirty filter, plugged lines, poorly performing fuel pump. On the other side of the coin, a vacuum leak lets more air in that is expected leading to a lean mixture even if the fuel system is working well.

Ok, I forgot to mention that I normally have the rubber isolator apart at this point so the splines have somewhere to move. I know it seems like a lotta force, but I've had nothing but perfect success with this method and no broken or bent parts. Those rusty splines do not come apart with a little squit of WD-40 and a prayer....

I have an old friend that helps me with this task. It is a tire changing/dismounting/prying beast. I bought mine at Princess Auto. I'll bet Harbour freight has one too. It has a tapered tip that is perfect to put in that split (where the bolt goes through) to spread that splined area and break the rust in there. Place the tip in the crack and hit it with a 2 lb sledge. Do not be nice. Then use the other end to pry between the body of the rack and the end of the joint to slide it off of the splines.

The bolt thread is 10x1.5, not 1.25. ALL M!0 bolts that thread into the engine block and transmissions are 1.50 thread.

All the original Z's I've seen have zinc plated (silver) door strikers and latch mechanisms, including the bolts.

The long guide is factory curved, but that plastic piece is supposed to be attached to the window frame. Yours is broken. You will find the other side of it attached to a metal bracket riveted to the window frame.

As long as you right sliders for the chassis, all the sliders fit all the seats. 240, 280 75-76 and 77-78 seats rails differ in how they mount to the floor, but all mount to the seats in the same way.

While there may be similarities to some of the updated functions that the old flat tops provided, these brand new carbs have nothing in common with them. These look like an excellent alternative to our old SU's. Seems to have the best of all the features you could ask for in a constant velocity carb. Brand new, modern support and parts availability being right up there with the design improvements.

Talked with Bruce, those 16067K1407 floats are $40USD a piece... I'm sticking wine corks in my float bowls...

I have to get a pair of those too! A fella in town here had the same problem. Same cracks. Craziest thing I've ever seen. Float full of fuel, shake rattle and roll and can't get a drop to come back out.

Ok, here are two side by side. First thing to note, the most useful I think, is that the GLASS is IDENTICAL on the 240 and 280 windows, at least up to 77-78 which are NOT interchangable. If you break yours, you can get a glass from any year 70-76 and just swap it on your frame. The metal frame the glass is attached to is definitely NOT identical. Very similar yes, easy to confuse, yes. Here is the difference. Both C-channels that hold and guide two of the regulator rollers are different in length and relative position on the backing plate. I lined up the two frames front and back, then took pictures of the two sets of C-channels. The underneath one is the 280 frame. 240 on top (no glass in the frame) Here is the rear channels. They are about the same length, but offset ~ 0.75". Note that the regulator wheel could be inserted at either end of either channel. here is the front one. The 280 (bottom) is farther back and shorter. Note that the regulator wheel could be inserted on both ends of the 280 only. The top 240 channel is too close at the front to the stamped indentation to allow the wheel in. To me this is the "best and fastest" way to tell them apart if they aren't together. If there is no access for the wheel one the front channel, it's for 240. Clearly they "improved" the window mechanism for the 280s (up to 76 in NAM). The door where the regulator attaches is stamped differently (outy vs inny stamping), the regulator is also different to match the door stamping change. the outer stainless guide channel that surrounds and seats the window is also different in how and where it mounts. Again, similar but different. All fodder for another thread. I will say that while you "could' use either window frame in either car, you will find that in at least one combination, when you wind the window down all the way, it will fall off one the tracks. Not fun. 75-76 280 door. Note the "outy" area around the regulator crank spline area. 240 door. Not the indented "inny" area around the regulator crank spline area. Also notice the welded in area around the door release area that is open and a separate piece on the above 280 door (not there in the picture...). Othe than the speaker hole, how many differences do you see? I see at least 5 uniquenesses.