beandip

I realize that changing brands of oil can cause the engine to smoke or start burning oil , at least for a few thousand miles. But this is not the case here the brand of oil I have used hassent changed at least while I have owned the car. Going on 3yrs. as for the fuel , I always use Plus. . It just seems weard that this stuff could adhear to the valve stem sence it was soft and plyable. The valve seals do not seem to be faulty as the engine does not smoke at startup , acctually the engine dosent smoke at all. It is amazing the engine could breathe with the ammnt of crud stuck to the valve stem. The pluggs have checked to be fine however I did notice that the engine did feel as though it needed a tune up for the last few days before I pulled it. I have also found that the dist. which is from a '79zx has a broken plate that controlls the vac. advance , and that could have caused her to run a little retarted. nutxo and my_mad_z thanks for the reply. Gary

I recently pulled the manifolds on my L-24 and I found a large deposit of crud on the intake valves from the stem out to almost the seat of the valve. The stuff was thick like tar but gritty , but not abraceive when rubbed between the fingers . I removed it with a screwdriver with vary little effort. My Question is where did it come from ? I am running a air cleaner on the SUs , and the engine burns no oil and is not running rich but right on. It seems weard to me that it dident come loose and be digested by the engine . I guss I just need to drive a little harder! Anyone else have the same thing ? I have seen simular build up on exhoust valves but hard carbon but never on a intake valve. Gary

If what the description is true of the condition , It looks like a good buy to me . Good luck , of cource let the buyer beware. Gary:classic:

what engine are you running that you want to set at 17BTDC ? Is this a dist. with points or not ? and describe what you took apart in the dist.. For one thing you will most likely need to bring the #1 piston up to tdc on the compression stroke. and re assemble what ever you took apart. I am running a '79 zx ignition and at 10 d btdc. in L-24 , I run plus fuel with no pinging and get 23 mpg I dont know if any of this help but let me know.

about 750 Rpm . and this is also for an automatic in gear.

I only payed $ 10.00 for 6 NGKs how much did you save ? false savings me thinks , sports fansROFL

:classic: The picture of the gears is a little fuzzy , but I would go for the set , I think they look good . For $100. what are you worried about , acouple of hours or labor? If you are looking for 4;11s go for it.

Most likely if there was a layer of brown-bread from a co. called B-Quiet that all would be fine and even more quiet. Another source is J C Whitney they have a insulation for firewalls and it can be used on the tranny tunnel , under the floor mats and hatch area. I am not using it under the floor mats but on all vertical surfaces. I looked at the bubble rap stuff at home Depot , but vary much question the heat resistance and flamibility of the plastic . The product from Whitney is certified for mariene and automotive use in engine compartments or under the hood if y ou want to go there , and its cheep too.

Zedrally , thank you for being able to put it so clearly. These gauges are for references only and are not that reliable. Another thing are you sure the sending unit is right on ? Thats Another question. If you have a clean radiater and the water pump is good , the rad. cap holds the right ammt . of pressure , you should be good to go , as long as you are using coolent. Use the candy thermometer in the rad. test and see what the gauge reads and go from there. None of this is rocket sience and precice. :classic:

too funny !

YOU DONT HAVE TO . BUT IF YOU WANT THE ENGINE TO KEEP CLEAN , IT'S NEEDED . IF YOU HAVE ANY BLOW BY THE FUMES WILL END UP INSIDE THE PASSINGER COMPARTMENT so you will need to vent it under the engine and hope for the best.

If when you blip the throttle with the engine at idle and warmed up , does it pop back through the carbs ? If it does this turn the mixtrue adjustment clock wise 1/2 turn ,if this dosent do it . You need to ballance the air intake of each carb , for this y ou need a uni-sun . I dont think the engine is running rich and the extra 1/2 turn should help to keep it from dying. Try to find a manual this will be of great help, especially a shop manual.

If round tops , turn the mixture adjustment up, counter clock wise to the stops , and back down clockwise 21/2 turns , the engine should run .

Geezer my butt. I may be an old dude but not a geezer. There are a few of us in the near proximity . Maybe we could get together , say at mc minmimums , at the Edgefield for a burger and a beer, We could start a happening. I know that there are several of us in the area , why not get together and say Hi. Get back to me and we will set a date is Sept. :classic:

First of all why did you add the stuff to the engine?? Was the engine smoking before ? How much mystery oil did y ou add to the crankcase ? Are you driving this car, or just running it in place? The white smoke , does it stop after you have been driving say 10 miles? have you done a compression check , and what do the plugs look like ? Is the oil milky looking ? What does the coolent look like ? The ansers to these questions will tell you what is wrong.

I have used Isky for 40+ yrs and I think the co. and there cams are 1st rate. A friend of mine built a 4 engine dragster and used Iskys. Two engins ran clockwise and tow counter clockwise. That was light yrs ago but if a co is still in business you know they know what they are doing. Crane has been around a long time also , I would check them both out , and get the grind that sutes you best!

I live in portland Oregon and drive a '73 240 with a 82 ZX engine . where are you and what are you driving ? Also I am 64 yrs old , 2/14/39 am I the oldest in the club?? married 43 yrs . 4 kids all married and on there own.

Zedrally is correct the factory pump is mounted on the passanger side just in front of the tank . You can get a pump from a RX7 that is NOT injected , I have been running one only, for over 2yrs with my SUs and it works fine , I paied $15.00 at the u-pullit . '73 Zs were the first year to have the elect pump but earlier years were wired for one. I t was added to eliminate vapor lock in hot weather. :classic: these pumps run at one speed and deliver the quantity of fuel that is needed for even tripples. The excess fuel that isnot used is returned to the fuel tank . Cant help you with the relay , dont know what pump you have. :classic:

If you are running a stock pump or one from a RX-7 , they run at one speed all the time, that is why you have a return line to the fuel tank. you dident mention are you running carbs or injection. If you are running one of the aftermarket pump like a purilater or AC they rattle faster when out of fuel .

Go to the U-Pullit and get a electric pump from a RX-7 , one that is NOT fuelinjected. It is mounted just in front of the rear axel on the drivers side. It will deliver plenty of volume and the pressure if I remember right is right around 5psi. I have been running one for over 2yrs. and cant remember the pressure. Your car is wired for a electric pump , just look up in front of the fuel tank on the passanger side . Install a inline filter before the pump . they dont like crud . by the way it was $15.00 . We tried one on a tripple set up on a stroaker and it provided plenty of fuel.

you can install a electric pump. Your car is wired for one. A great mod. is to install a fuel pump from a RX-7 . Just be sure that it is from one that is carberated and NOT injected. They will give all t he volume that any carb, set up can use period and the pressure is low but fine for the SUs. I have been using one for two years and it works great. $15.00 at the bone yard. No vapor lock either. Check your oil because if the diafram is blown it could be pumping gas into the crankcase. NOT GOOD

I just sent one to the restoration place in OZ a couple of days ago. I dont know how long it takes to receive one from him but the price seemed vary good . $265. for my '73

For those of us that are in the Portland area . Baxters Auto Parts is having free dino testing on 8 / 15 8 / 16 & 8 / 17 th. :classic: I only wish I had my Z back together .

Are you sure the pump is not getting power? The electric pump was installed by t he factory in the '73s to help withe the vapor lock problem. I am running just the electric pump on my Z and it works just fine. If your elect pump is shot, go to the bone yard and find a RX-7 that is carberated for sure not injected, and snag one of these . They work great and mine was only $15.00 . We even tried it on a tripple mikuni set up on a stroaker and it worked fine supplied all the fuel that was needed. Gary:classic:

The spendy part is the rockers. Every one that is in the know has warned me to always use factory rockers ! which I have done . Suposidly the after market ones will eat the cam in not too many miles becuse they are soft. Just passing on info. here and if any one has different information , please come out with it . Factory rocker arms are spendy.