beandip

This gold design is great . The cars that I think that Nissan should have looked at is the Honda 2000 and or the Jajuar Roadster but in a G T . I prefer the inline 6 to the v-6 but I could live with the v if it put out more HP , 300 to the ground . Then we would have something. Gary P.S. Having been around the 350Z for a couple of years now , and I still think it is a big mistake and ugly and a dissapointment in stileing . The price point is good and the power lacking . Nissan puts more power in there pickup and sedan. :stupid: :stupid:

If it was the fuel moving too slow through as you said , then why is the filter only part way full , unless the pressure of the pump in not adiquate and it cannot over come the pressure in the rail . Due to the heated fuel boiling. 2psi is lower than what my pump puts out. I am getting 4 psi. You said that you installed a different fuel pump and it dident make any difference ? Is this right ? What was the pressure that pump was making ? Just for information, the fuel pump from a carbed RX-7 is a quiet pump and mine pumps at 4 psi. I got mine at the bone yard for $15.00 , if you come across one grab it and try it , if it makes no different at least you have a spair. I am thinking it's the low pressure of the pump that cannot over come the pressure in the fuel rail caused by the fuel heating and expanding . When you open the hood it cool the fuel line to the point the weak pump over comes the pressure and fills the filter and every thing smooths out. Again I am trying to make sense of this and this is the only logical thing I can come up with. Gary

I installed his floor in my Z and found that the fit was vary good and quality first rate. Charley told me not to cut out the old floor untill I received the new pannels and I agree. The floors come with the center support and it should be installed with it . The sheet metal of the new floors is thicker gague metal . I took my Z to a certified welder and he TIG welded it in. He tried his mig but the Zs sheet metal is so thin it kept blowing through. I cut away the old floor and allowed about a 2'' overlap . I fitted the panel in place and held it using self tapping sheet metal screws. As the welder welded the seam he removed the screws and filled the holes. Welded the seame of the overlap under the floor as well. All bare metal was then treated and sealed with POR both inside and under. If you would like pictures send me a pm Gary

The lense is not the problem it's the chrome that is hard to find in good shape . If some one could reproduce the metal chrome bars they could make a bunch.

what Ed posted is good info and words to live by . At least hone the cylinders along with the head work and tank the block. Unless you are building a all out race engine and not for the street , you might rethink the cam . Going to aggresive on the cam will make the car unresponsive at the low end and miserable at launch . If you are looking for a car to drive on the streets , look for a cam that will start the power band at a lower RPM other wise the 3 stage , you will need to be up in the 2500 to 3k before it gets it on. Gary

I can see that you are concerned about the rust. This thread is not about rust repair. Dont Hi-jack the therad . Post your own question or problem . This gets us all off track . Thanks Gary

yes because you are eliminating the resister and suppling 12volts to the coil. I simply used the ZX coil , in reality I can see no need to use any other coil really.

If the rust on the fenders is just infront of the door or just in back of the door. This is rust coming through the fender from the inside. The front stuff is at the beginning of the frame rail and the rust to the rear is the back end of the frame rail and the connect where supports go accross the car to the other side. If the frame rail is rusted , for this kind of money WALK AWAY !! Sorry but this is big dollors to fix properly .

If you are planning on removing all the paint and primer to bare metal you are making a lot of unneeded work for your self. Unless the paint and primer is all bad to the bone there isnt the need to remove it all. If you use striper it will remove everything , even the good stuff that you don't want removed like the little fillers the factory used on the flaws in the steel and such. All this will need to be added again. I have just gone through this on my Z . Proper preping the car for paint is a vary big job if you do it right and a mess if you do it wrong. I used 220 grit on a random orbetal sander to go over the whole car , 60 where I needed to work on any rust . I removed any bondo found because many people don't know how to prep for fillers. escanlon is a great sorce of info for this area , send him a PM . Good luck with the project . Gary

If you pull the front plug out and disconnect the coil wire so it wont fire. Put your finger over the hole and have some bump the engine , turn the key to start and make it turn , when the piston comes up on the compression stroke you will know and stop turning it . If you shine a light in the plug hole you should see the piston . Now that is number one . connect that plugwire to the cap in a position that the rotor is pointing . Now connect the rest of the wires in the proper fireing order counter clockwise from the #1 . Try that.

This is VARY strange . I doubt vary much that it is air from a pinhole because under pressure or not you would see some leaking , or at the vary least a stain or wetness. What is weard is that it goes away when you open the hood. Thats the part that has me stumped. Insulation on the rail is after the fact,so that wont help. even if the pump was marginal , the cool air shouldent effect the flow ,could there be something wrong with the fuel filter that is blocking the flow when heated? I am grasping at straws here. Gary

I vary much doubt that it is the regulator. I do question the module though. Have you recently washed down the engine by chance ? I hav heard of the problem you are experiencing being caused by the module . I picked up a spair module at the bone yard for just this reason. Gary

As a clairification . I am not disagreing with 240ZX at all . The Vacum brake booster is what I am referring to in my origional post. What I am referring to with the statement '' some people dont have a clue'' is . The '' MEMBER '' comeing up with the off the wall unrelated comment of changing the master cylinder , which has absolutly nuthing to do with what this thread is about. :devious: :disappoin :stupid: LanceM gets it.

YOU SEE WHAT I MEAN ! HELLO HELLO ANY BODY HOME ! :stupid: :stupid: :stupid:

Hello, they are all japanese, for the UK and Auz. right hand drive . In auz the 260 was made for several years inted of the 280. All the correct hand drive cars are for the US . that should ruffel a couple of feathers.

jSTUDLY. when the vac. booster is leaking it effects the automatic as well . the auto has a vac. line that controls shifting so it all goes hand in hand. There are some, the privious post, that dont have a clue and give advise as though they did . I dont think he even knows what a booster is . In the past you could buy a kit to rebuild the booster , a simple thing to do, however I dont think they are available any longer. The boosters are but not the kits. They are year specific so when ordering be clear with the year and mention the automatic. Gary

YOU ARE WELCOME HERE , NO BASHING. I do have a question , when you did the rebuild why did you choose to go with the low compression ? Because of emissions ?

I am not a chemist either but taboo on copper line is for the 1/4'' stuff . If you use 1/2'' copper 90degree elbows and make a U shape from them then a 5/8'' fuel line will connect to both ends and seal then you can run the line up to the filler neck . This is for the upper vent of the 240 tank. cap the lower one with a subb out fitting. Copper fuel line cannot withstand the vibration that is why it should not be used , however with just two large fittings being used and connected on each end to rubber fuel line there is no worry. Brass and copper is used all the time with fuels . It's the vibration that makes the difference. Never use copper for brake or fuel lines for this reason. Gary :rambo:

digging up this OLD thread is like smelling dirty gym socks. Nissan has spoken and slurred there words big time . Sad but true and we have to deal with it . I have my 240 and love it. That is enough for me. I would have liked them to build a good looking car insted of a VW lookalike. Sorry Milke

THE z GOD WAS LOOKING OVER YOUR SHOULDER ! I bet that shakes the ole conficence a little. Glad you found it as I am sure you are too. I know it's the little things like that, that haunt me some times when I am first starting one for the first time . I keep thinking that I am hearing a main seizing from spinning and insert. I am sure you will take it slow and sure . Blame it on the sore back from shuveling snow ! Gary :nervous:

Where did this come from ?? No one was talking about wireing or connectors! Are you reading the same thread ? HELLO :stupid: :stupid:

your best bet is to find a L-24 and stick it in. By the time you mess around with a 4 banger and replace the trans and all the little things like radiator and such you will be into a hell of a lot of cash . If it is a rust bucket that you say , sell it as a parts car and move on to a economy car like an old Honda.

In my state that would be a couple of hundred bucks. I hope the thrill was worth it . my 2c

I agree with bambi about replacing the bolts when you pull the head . Have you done a compression check ? Have you noticed any oil in the coolent or water in the oil ? If all three are good I wouldent pull the head unless the oil leak is sugnificant.