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You can download it here for free and print out the sections for the 240Z. https://240260280.com/Docs/TSB/Technical_Bulletins_1969_1972.pdf

So some more progress and some lessons for today. My brake light was always on unless I pulled the signal wire off the safety brake failure switch. The parking brake wouldn't light up the brake light either. After pulling the sensor and exploring some and stealing a switch off the brown Z and opening it up some Cody could see it. We determined the sensor threaded in too far. I rebuilt this in Jan 20, 2018. I used a small viton o ring instead of the black ring on the end of the sensor. It should probably be a small hydraulic D ring instead. If it threads in a hair too far it will close the ground circuit all the time. We took the black ring out of our stolen switch and that fixed the always on brake light. The parking brake switch had to be wire wheeled to make it work but we still didn't have a ground path. So that meant we had to pull the bolts out of the parking brake mechanism and clean off some paint so that we had continuity. Then the parking brake switch lights the brake light as it should. :) So the lesson here is very similar to Chuck's steering wheel anecdote. If you paint everything, you're electrical might not work! I also made a little heat shield for the 123 ignition. I have heard that heat from the header could kill the electronics. It's flimsy but I will redo it when I decide what I want the finished product to look like I also worked on my parking brake adjustment. Using all the adjustment available the handle was almost out of travel. So I bought some 10mm OD 5mm ID aluminum tubing off Amazon and added a small section of tubing to remove some of the slack in the system. I used some heat shrink to prevent it from rattling around. It works much better now. Five clicks and it's tight at about a 45 degree angle.

The window regulators are different between the two models. I also seem to remember that there's some difference in the length and/or position of a channel that the rollers of the regulator sit in. I made an early regulator work in my 260Z drivers door but it required some sheet metal modification and a change of channel (else the roller would fall out of the channel on one extreme of the up/down movement). That was years ago and I don't exactly remember all that I had to do. Eventually I went back to actual 260/280 window and regulator hardware - just know there is a difference between the 240 and the 260/280 when it comes to window and door hardware...

" I rebuilt this in Jan 20, 2018. I used a small viton o ring instead of the black ring on the end of the sensor" Charles. When doing brake systems, you should use EPDM rubber. Preferably, choose peroxide-cured EPDM, as it offers better resistance and holds its form longer than the sulfur-cured material. Viton (FKM) is not suitable for brake applications, as it will eventually degrade when exposed to brake fluid. I have successfully used O-rings on that switch before. It is unusual that yours travels too far and makes contact with the shuttle. I have the sizes somewhere if you want them.

Yep, I went with the OER F309 blades for a perfect fit with the original equipment twin-rib frames. They are not cheap at $18/ea. OERF309 - 1970-81 GM, Mopar; Windshield Wiper Blade Insert;...OER reproduction of the original Trico-style 43-180 windshield wiper blade refill set for a wide variety of vehicle applications. Each blade insert is manufactured for perfect fit, function and period

More Christmas pics original-85f943e3-d761-40e3-905a-1a9be56f23ca.mp4

On a different note, I drove my car today for the first time!!! It has never run since I've owned it. 16 years... I don't know if this will play IMG_4909.3gp So a very nice Christmas :)