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@jfa.series1 I've had good luck getting all the parts through amayama, partsouq or nissan parts deal. You'll have to assemble the kit yourself, that's what I did.

I hit 70 mph today. Seemed to like it just fine. Not sure how it would like it for ten hours, but it seemed to like it for five minutes. Temps started creeping up a little, which is somewhat disconcerting since it was a cool evening. I have previously been through a (critter induced) radiator calamity, but was hoping it was mitigated to the point of being OK. Maybe I still need to do more... Running out of time!!!

There is a possibility my original 4-speed may need a rebuild. It is my understanding that rebuild kits for the type "A" transmission are NLA, at least in the US. Some questions for our talented membership: Are any of the components of the "B" kit usable in the "A" transmission? Has anyone identified susbstitute components - bearings, bushings, synchros, ...etc.? Roadster parts? Any thoughts on where else to search for a type "A" rebuild kit? I really want to keep my driveline orignal. Swappng to a type "B" transmission is undesireable due to the potential for damage to the console and underlying body to accomodate the change in the shift rod location. I'm open and welcoming to any comments, suggestions and recommendations. Thanks, Jim

Excellent example of what I've been calling for the past 12-14 months the "Depressed upper middle class collector car market".

I have a 280 radiator in mine with a full ZX shroud. Works great except it sits lower but the crossmember sits just as low. Took the drain valve off and put a bolt in. So far so good and that was around 2015. Bought it at Advance for $139 IIRC? What is that, coffee beans and a racoon's condom?

In our experience it was generally bearings - mainly the one under the reverse idler - and not usually gears or baulk rings - except maybe the reverse idler. Many of the same bearings were used in the "B" transmissions. If you replace baulk rings (which I would avoid unless there's obvious damage to them), lap them to make sure they move freely when cold... Ask me how I know (and how cold does it get in Arizona?).

If the problem is synchros grinding it might be worth a shot to try Pennzoil Synchromesh. If it's bearings that another story. If it's both try the Synchromesh to see if it stops the grinding and put in new bearings if you can't find the synchros. Some thoughts. You did say possibility.

EuroDat has written a bunch about rebuilding transmissions. Here's one link from Tech Articles. The Resources area is really hard to get through, can't figure out where things are. Really just need a long clean list of every title in the area. Had to use Google to find it. There might be more out there. Search EuroDat's name.

Quite a blast from the past. Filling in the "rest of the story".

Still in original packaging, braided steel brake lines. $100 retail - I'll sell at $50 U.S.

Don't forget about the bronze valve seats that came OE in the E31. They're not good with the gas we use now but you can have them updated to steel for not much money if you're not currently running the head.

@Captain Obvious Just had a look on my October 1970 240Z that hasn't been touched since built. It has the flat side up.

Many thanks for all the constructive comments and suggestions. I've been running the AC Delco Friction Modified transmission lube for some time, great product and it has provided a significant improvement in shifting. I suspect I have a bearing problem, primarily occuring on cold start situations. Anyway, I'll move forward on tracking down components. With the recent change to the de minimus rule, it looks like most offshore shipments are now on hold pending guidance from the feds. ☹️