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Indeed. I've been on a steady decline in quality since 2002... The E8700 Console-mounted Fog Lamp Switch was a rarely-specced showroom option part in Japan, and only available for a relatively short period (roughly early October 1971 through late August 1973) after which the design changed completely. I see the part number quoted also on the relevant R-DRIVE Export factory parts list, but the only illustration is the (equally rare) earlier type dash-mounted E4100 NILES two pin 'flip' type fog switch. There is not even a drawing of the E8700 type. The March 1974 update of the R-DRIVE Export factory parts list gives the following part numbers: *25370-E4100 COMP-SWITCH FOG LAMP - up to 08-71 (Note: this is the dash-mounted NILES two pin 'flip' switch). *25370-E8700 COMP-SWITCH FOG LAMP - from 09-71 (Note: This is the console-mounted Droid you are looking for...). *25370-E8701 COMP-SWITCH FOG LAMP - from 07-73 up to 08-73 (Note: The fog lamp switch that burns twice as bright burns out a month later...). *25370-N3400 COMP-SWITCH FOG LAMP - from 08-73 (Note: This is not the Droid you are looking for...). To be honest I've never really sought out an E8700 type switch as I never needed one, but it seems that they are rather elusive. I've got several of the equally elusive E4100 type but I don't recall even seeing a photo of the E8700 type in Japanese market factory literature. The only pictorial reference I have is the factory parts list drawing I posted in the 2002 thread. So, can't help, not won't help.

But it is the same car and engine, moved from Panama to Spain?

I didn't have the correct key, but got mine apart without much difficulty. The hatch lock clocks in two positions, one 90 degrees from the other. You have to align the wafers with a channel in the sleeve. Here are two photos showing the inside of the sleeve, one taken, and then the sleeve rotated around 180 degrees and another taken. Note the channels: The two channels in the first pic have "walls" at the far end. The other two channels do not - they are open channels from front to back. With the correct key inserted, the tumblers all retract, and pushing the large wafer in is all that is needed. Without the correct key, you may have to push the larger wafer down, and then insert a thin object like a hard wire that has been flattened to push all the wafers into the cylinder, so they will clear the "wall". Or, use it to push the wafers into the cylinder while you rotate the cylinder in the sleeve until the wafers fall into one of the channels without the wall. Then slide the cylinder out. The good news is that after you replace the wafers with the correct ones for a key you have, assembly will be much easier!

I can get these done tomorrow. Thanks!

Here's the basic grounds that should be cleaned and shined up. It doesn't take too long, an hour at the most, and really helped my EFI 280. https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Sorry for the confusion. I have saved teh attachment as a .pdf file so you should be able to open it. Let me know if you are still having problems.IMG_0814.HEIC.pdf

Are you on your flip phone again?

Yeah, once you know what you are working with, it's easy to get it apart even without the correct key. Been a while since I've been into the locks and I don't remember which direction the tumbler springs push with respect to the "walls" inside the barrel, but it may be as simple as using an uncut key? If not that, then some rudimentary lock picking would be the trick.

Sorry, but I can't view that attachment. Whatever format that is, my system can't deal. Can you post a .jpg or a .pdf?

Fascinating, didn't know that existed. So you can rock the boat and then name change to try to start over...

I believe new wafers are available but I bought a vintage kit off ebay that had wafers, springs and replacement face caps

I’ve asked this question on two other forums and people keep telling me it’s for the defroster and not a fog light switch, thinking that I’m asking about the 70-71 cars. Those photos are to illustrate how the defroster switches differ from the illustration. Im also assuming it’s a Niles switch like most of the rest of them. I haven’t seen any Niles rocker switches for other cars, but I wouldn’t be surprised if it’s it was in something else, too.

No, I had a few made off the code on the door locks. The hatch, glove box, and ignition were all out of other cars, hence rekeying all of them. But the cylinder comes out without the key. I’m just using it to illustrate how the wafers stuck out before and didn’t after. The latch is what keeps it in the housing. By the way, I don’t know if it’s difficult to get the pin back in of your pull it completely, but you don’t need to do that to get the latch off.

I don't think it's the alternator. Your battery would be much lower than 12.5 if the alternator was dead. It's probably either a bad starter, a bad wire or a dirty connection...