Leaderboard

Oh great. Now what's Cliff gonna do????

Oh come on, be brave!

Had to leave work early as when I went to fill the Z tank, gas started pouring out past the sender oring 😭 I assumed I had not seated it correctly, which seemed hard to fathom, but it must have rolled when I was tightening the lock plate. I got home after losing prolly 3 gallons or more - the needle had dropped from around 2/3 to under half after the 20 min drive. I was praying I didn't pass anyone smoking with an open window - I'm pretty sure there was a fuel mist in my wake. I drained about 4 gallons to get the level below the sender. Couldn't see anything wrong with the o- ring, but I reinstalled with the original as it appeared & felt to be a thicker wall. Adapted the harness Put the gas back in, and the big leak was gone, however the new sender (off AliExpress) was leaking around the ground pin. Now I was wishing I hadn't mutilated the original sender when I cut the wires off. When I did that I yanked on the gauge terminal and it pulled out of the sender. So now I had to fix the original sender just so I could put it back in until I get a new replacement quality unit. I riveted a Volvo coil terminal connector using the original nylon spacer and the inner seal seat for the gauge terminal. Installed, no more leaks That done, I wanted to take care of the appearance at the tank and the rear valance as they both looked kind of s*****, and I'm going to the Carlisle Import Show in the AM . So I sprayed the tank with 3M chip protection, then after an hour and a half, the 3M undercoat. Metal splash guard sprayed separately, and installed after I took this pic.

You should have a sign that says “some assembly required “.

Took a day off work and decided to get my garage more organized so that I can more easily work on the parts and sub-assemblies. First step was getting everything outside. I couldn't resist laying out a bunch of the parts and taking a few pics before I start putting it away.🙂

If it was easy, why would it be worth doing?

Consume more Beer!! 🍻

Sigh... You really want bowl drains? This happened many moons ago...

Yes, it's normal. What is this "easy" thing you talk about? Working on cars is hard.

You mean like this?

Yo yo yo dude, the mounting holes are in the same spot on the manifold. Nut on a stud, hex head screw, whatever. Put an open end wrench on it and turn it. Counterclockwise. Just like the guy in the video. Word.

"Wake The Sleeping Beast" or something like that. @siteunseen will be along in a moment to point you to the correct thread.

Nope!!! 😉

It was March 14th when I posted that message. Today I got a call from the Ministry of Transport Ontario saying I own the car again! The paperwork to have it transferred back to me disappeared twice in the depths of MTO, but good eventually triumphed over bureaucracy. I wasted no time getting insurance on the car, and picking up the new ownership papers and license plates. We're now one exhaust system and a signature on a Vehicle Condition Report away from being on the road! MTO doesn't require the Vehicle Condition Report - they returned the car to "fit" condition, because that's the state it was in when transferred to the wrecker. My insurance company needs the form completed before they can put collision coverage on it.

If the metal gets too hot or overworked, it expands and becomes wavy. Basically ruined

Thx everyone the info was much appreciated. Car was in pretty good condition(compared to some I seen that guys went ahead and restored!) usual rust battery holder, and floor pans, rest of the car was solid(so far). Emptied the fuel tank(must have been full lol) and inside looks to be just varnish. Fan belt was rotted out and broke but I turn the crank over by hand and spun easily. Carbs appear to be round top SU's. Not looking to do any serious modifications but would like a little more pwr. (as "Tim the Toolman" would say OH OH OH!) Maybe some flatop pistons, change out points distributer and a header. I'll have to check the forum for some answers on that. thx again.

Important prone to rust areas look very nice on drivers side, left hand side. Hammer and chiseled the thick coat of undercoating off these areas to confirm what lurked beneath the tar…… I know I have brought a few cars home with similar undercoating, that had possibly been applied to conceal the evil rust monster… Have mounted on rotessiere, waiting to have time to prime within a couple of days of blasting.

Here's some stuff that might be helpful/inflammatory. https://www.ztherapy.com/technical_stuff/spotterguides/zcar/240spotter.htm "When installing or removing the carbs from your manifold, all the nuts need to be loosened up before trying to remove them. There is no clearance on the bottom of the carb to remove one of the nuts. Sliding the body out a bit will allow the nuts to be removed. "

It always makes me smile when taking off suspension peices that show the yellow Q/C brush marks…..

If our decoding method works, the engine block was casted on 9th of January 1975. “5109I” 5=1975, 1=January, 09=9th, I=alphabet /ai/. Does it make sense to the number L28-005521? Kats

Most likely a 1975 or 1976 280Z engine. Originally an EFI engine. 5521 is pretty low, I'm going to guess 1975. People often swap the carbs over and install them in their 240Z's. Sometimes they use the 280Z tranmsission and differential also. What type of carburetors does it have? You'll be competing with Shawninvancouver for carb advice. 25-30 years means the gas tank and fuel system are probably rusted and gunked up. Some work involved there. Somewhere here on the forum or out on the internet there is a basic guide for getting an old car back on the road. Can't remember the title of the thread. Ways to prepare the engine to get the most life out of it after it runs again. The cylinders tend to rust even sitting inside, just due to condensation. Check out the Resources area - https://www.classiczcars.com/files/

Awww man. I usually go to that show, but I'm not gonna make it this year! Kinda snuck up on me, and I just can't swing it. Aaaaargh. Would have really enjoyed meeting you.

I'm a fan of the flat tops, but they are more complicated than the round top. And complicated is not "the easiest way". I'd suggest taking the entire intake manifold(s) off and replacing it with the round top rig you have there.

Me too. Glad the work was successful.

Post 90 page 8

"Internet wisdom" that's too funny an oxymoron like "model prisoner". I've read that as well and I've always used the cone shaped cast iron prop, Asin one too. From what I remember it was the steel impeller causing electrolysis and freezing up the steel bolts in the aluminum front cover? Both my Zs had the OE cast iron pumps and they were still flowing great. I think they're designed better on side by side comparison. I'm an old timer!

I’m frustrated at this point and can’t keep participating in a thread where not reporting back the findings in order to move forward in a systematic manner for a positive outcome is extremely frustrating for me personally. Familiarizing and educating yourself before jumping into this is extremely important. For that reason I’m out. Wish you the best yarb

I don't like the look of the red wire attached to the points the metal part there is grounded, the there is a sandwich of fiber washers and the wire should not touch the middle plate. When the points are open there should be no ground contact through the moving part of the points to the terminal through the red wire to where the black wire goes on the flat terminal. I still also suggest using a plug wire like off Number 6 with an old plug in it directly from the coil wire hole (well seated). then rest the metal part of the plug against the head. The spark should jump the plug gap when working correctly.