Leaderboard

Over the easter holidays, i had some hours time to work on my project again. First thing i noticed on the Subie R180 Diff, which i bought recently, was that it most probably got painted at some point. A quick scrub with the wire brush made the original silver surface appear again: Same on the Propeller shaft flange: Then it was about time to remove the nasty grease and dirt buildup around the seals: And then give the whole housing a healthy two-hours of wire-wheel peeling: Right: Original Datsun diff, left: Subie diff. Notice the different flange adapters: Surprzingly, the datsun part came off quite easy. While the subie thingy required a puller tool setup. Worked well though: Here we are now. ready to get seals replaced. further cleaning, rust-protection repaint and then assembly everything. Hope i find time again soon to finish this part.

I need an emoji with eyes popping out! This will have to do !

My 3.1 is going back together! 48035565-3f87-41e9-8969-6a890e052731.mp4

I guess part of my suspicion is based on the fact that the #4 plug doesn't foul unless it's idled too long. If there was a ring problem then you would expect to see more of it off idle when the vacuum is higher in the motor. Or smoking on acceleration or deceleration. So if it's not a ring problem and the valve seals have been successfully replaced then I would look at what hasn't been replaced. I believe the only thing that hasn't been touched is the dizzy and the pertronix... It could be cam related but that seems like a stretch. I guess all the lobes could be mic'd to verify but still seems like a long shot Jalex, Did you physically move the shaft around in the dizzy? It needs to be more than a visual inspection.

I liked you color change, more consistent and readable. And that is interesting about MS Word's limitations on exporting to a pdf. I've been using Libra Office for several years (never wanted to pay for MS Office) and interesting to find that limitation. I like the spreadsheet in Libra Office (Calc) too. I never used MS Excel, used Lotus 123 until about 5 years ago! (when it was part of Lotus Smartsuite) because I got that for free from when I was gainfully employed by IBM.

@jayhawk Some poster humor. I loaded up the .odt in Word (MS365 so it's current). Did you know that Word only supports up to 17"X22" max page size, then it doesn't have "Export Directly as a PDF", word only supports PDF's in 8.5"X11". I loaded up LibreOffice Writer and your 18"X24" (which is a standard poster size) worked just fine and the same sized Exported PDF. So if anybody else wants to look at this you really should use LibreOffice Writer (it's free), not Microsoft Word. I did make some minor changes, hope you don't mind, here's what I did... 2023 THE LEGENDARY DATSUN 240Z CONCOURS INFO POSTER 18x24 a.odt

While you have it open, you can suck on the vac advance rubber hose and make sure the advance is working properly. Plate should rotate and return. I dont think that's your issue but gives you some piece of mind that advance is working. Replacing pertronix (as Patcon suggest) is easier than removing the head.

No, I would just make sure that the shaft doesnt have any play (wobbling around). Remove the cap, remove the center rotor (part that spins), then wiggle the metal shaft left and right. If it does have play, then you have issues with the dizzy bushings and it needs work. It will have play up and down but should not have play laterally. Take the #4 plug wire and swap it with the #3 plug wire. Swap them at the plug AND the distributor cap. If your fouling plug moves to #3 then you have an ignition problem, if it doesnt you have a problem somewhere in the motor.

I be damned if I'd told that!

The basic problem with any reman is it's always hit or miss. The reman shops only examine the parts for obvious problems and wear and test various components electrically. There's just no way to tell how close the used part is to failure. Insulation breakdown, metal fatigue, etc. Business-wise, the only reason to introduce a new product to market is because the reman's are so bad. Take some good pictures if you have time. Interested to see what they're producing. They do alternators also. Cheaper than one of the reman's. Although, if I was going to buy a reman, I'd buy a Remy. They seem to produce good stuff. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,electrical,alternator+/+generator,2412

Just a very quick update from the Bodyshop: I got some photos of the Mizukami Auto OEM optional rollbar replica testfit: Looks good on the first glimpse, but i will go and check out the car close-up in two weeks and see the progress on the other bodywork too.

Yea I looked for the OEM one. No luck…. We’ve shutout our European operation at work and giving that work to to contractor. Major job cuts happening. The company seems to care only about quarterly profits after a hostile takeover of two board seats buy a hedge fund. They’re letting people go left and right . Almost all of our flight instructors were fired last week. A lady who worked in flight admin for 37 yrs was asked to leave. Super sad.