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That's the part I'm looking for. Hussein, thanks for the link!

I'll look after work, but I think I only have the 240 tube. The 240z has the extra nipple, and the 280z does not. Sound correct. I stole these pic's from eBay for the clarification.

Should be the same 35 pin AMP connector used on all L-Jet systems, Fiat & others used it through the '80's. Example on eBay

My comment was simply you never know what things will value for in the future. I've sold some really nice 280ZXs over the years that today would sell for $25K, and it wasn't that many years ago. They are really fun cars.

The joys of R&D. Welcome to my world. Lol

Failed designs. The compression was neat, but the two blocks I tested have a sharp edge that tears the rubber/ silicone.

There is another style of these breather tubes used on early cars that came to Canada (and other markets) that had non emission engines. It does not have the small nipple. Here is a pic of the engine from my 7/70 Canadian market car, engine number is L24-010178.

Good point - I hadn't considered he meant the ECU side connector/housing (825213-1). Those you can also buy new....

This part of the ECU? (Pic stolen from eBay for reference) I might have one to part out.

The part number is actually right on it - 925 380. Mouser carries them (JPT terminals separate) for about $9

Yarb's suggestion is good. You could make it easier and leave the return line alone though and let the gas flow in to the tank, if you just want to test the pump and tank. If it was mine, I'd disconnect the inlet hose from the tank and stick it in to a can of fuel back by the pump and tank. Measure pressure once. You'll know. Super easy. Your symptoms kind of sound like the "crud in the tank" problem. The crud floats around in the tank and gets sucked on to the inlet pipe sock, clogging it. Then when the pump turns off it floats free. Break your problems in to pieces. And yes, page 79. The higher the resistance the more fuel the ECU adds. Corrosion on the connections can cause excess resistance.

The pipe is tapered. It’s a booger getting it out after all these years. @jfa.series1 suggests, grab a rubber hammer and drive it in.

Jim, Good to hear that you have had good luck with your clock. NO I did not supply those clocks to Motorsports. You are one of the luck ones as I have several boxes of shorted mechanisms and leaking battery damage from the AA clock conversion. Ron

First test IMO should be to isolate the tank as suggested earlier by disconnecting supply and return lines. Supply line to pump 3/8. Return line 5/16. Drop them in a 5 gallon can. Start the engine. One variable eliminated.

Interesting comments on the AA battery powered clocks. I have one purchased from MSA back in 2011 and I recall sending in my clock as a rebuildable core. It was my understanding that the units they were selling at that time came from your shop. Anyway, it continues to be an extremely reliable clock that does not eat batteries. My car is always garaged so it does not hit the high temps you mention.

Forgot to mention that the AA battery clock you mentioned has some problems. The AA battery for one can leak and cause problems if not changed every couple of months. Especially during the summer when car temp can go aver 150 deg F. Batteries don't like the heat and they repture and leak. The second problen is that the mechanism in this clock is not made for the automotive enviroment. This is $2 Chineese mechasm that is quartz driven and made for the ultra cheap indoor clock as sold in most discount stores. Modifications to the 240z clock when installing this mechanism will destroy the number face plate if you ever want to go back to the OEM clock or a good quartz conversion. Motorsports use to sell them . I know people that love the idea , but I also have several boxes of these clocks that were traded in on up grades for a better quartz mechanism that was NOT AA battery powered. Just opinion.....

Hey Dutch, You reminded me of a test that I was going to perform on the OEM 240z clock input power . I have run the specific clock I have for sale at 14, 12, 10 and 5 volts. Thats right 5 volts and the clock works and keep good time. Not sure if all the clocks can go as low as 5 volts without adjustment, but I don't know why anyone would run the clock on 5 volts. Interesting test and a good performance of the motor and clock spring. The motor doesn't run all the time it just keeps the main spring wound. If the spring is weak it can be the reason the clock time will fluctuate, as well as change in temperature. Ron

All ITB test fitment is done. Cable mount is perfect, everything is smooth and actuates as good as I hoped. Now time to bolt it down, cut the cable to length and finish some wiring. I lined up the MZR haltech tuner to help me with my tune. It should be interesting to see how good he can get it, especially with my balance bar design and throttle angle. Will the snow melt so I can drive it soon? Probably not.