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Here is how lucky I am regarding tank internal cleanliness. This one is spotless. Going to steam it tonight and see what I smell when done. Then I'll put it out in the yard with a spark plug dangling in there with a long wire and a coil and a battery....

I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to save the battery tray or the inner fender supporting it. The tray I threw in a bucket of citric acid for a few days, some big pits but nothing broke through the surface so it is still usable. I used a air scaler on the inner fender but couldn't begin to get the rust in the pinch weld so out of desperation I pulled out a phosphoric acid product I purchased years ago. I've never had much success with phosphoric acid but this stuff was really good, thick gel like consistency, it took several applications with scraping in between but I'm pretty happy with the results.

After several years, a lot of $, work and help from many of you guys, I now have a 2023 1973 240Z. Here are a few pics. Thanks again to all of you. It's hard to tell from the photos but when I painted it, I incorporated gold micro sequence metal flake in an intercoat layer of paint. When it sits in the sun, it sort of twinkles.

Last test piece printed before the final Carbon Fibre infused ABS is printed!

I took it down to Techno strip and had it dipped.

From the 'Smart Chemistry for a Better Environment' website, by D.W. Davies Co. RADIATOR CLEANER FOR RADIATOR REPAIR SHOP USE Davies “RADIATOR BOIL OUT #100” is a powdered alkaline detergent formulation used with water for heavy-duty immersion radiator cleaning, as well as in-place radiator cleaning. The product renders better cleaning due to better penetration, grease emulsification, better rinsing and powerful scale remover. This product also contains an inhibitor which prevents corrosion of metals by alkalies. For Cleaning Radiator with Immersion Tank: Prepare a solution of 2 lbs. per 20 gallons of water, increase or decrease usage based on soil load. Heat the water and maintain it at or neat boiler point. Immerse the radiator or other parts in the hot solution and inspect frequently for completeness of cleaning. Remove from vat, allow to drain and pressure rinse. For Cleaning Radiator In-Place: Use 2 lbs. per 3 gallons of water in system. Drain system, close drain and pour solution into radiator, replace cap, run motor 30-60 minutes - - drain radiator again and flush with water until water is clear. This agrees with my understanding that a rad (or fuel tank) 'boil out' is only partly related to the use of a near-boiling liquid and has just as much to do with the use of an alkali (such as powdered laundry lye) dissolved in that liquid. FWIW, I remember first reading about this process in a book* that I ordered from the UK back in the 1960's, when I was first getting interested in motorcycles (* 'Modern Motorcycle Maintenance'... where the definition of 'modern' seemed to be focused on somewhere around 1955). The hot lye strategy was recommended for 'de-carbonizing' exhaust systems. No reason why you wouldn't be able to use the same procedure with your Z's fuel tank, but you'd probably need to let the solution sit in the tank overnight, to compensate for the fact that it will only be near-boiling for the first 30 minutes.

Working on the new throttle body and adapter this Christmas!

It's always a great thing to see one of these projects getting out into the light of day again. I hope you have a great time enjoying it.

Yeah.. and always Hitachi's.. I never saw a Clarion in that configuration with AM and FM and the antenna switch like that. Oh well, MH77280z, congrat's with your buy!

I don't believe that is a 280z radio. I believe its for a 240z. Btw if it works, its quite valuable! It even has value if it doesn't work. Look on Ebay to see what I mean

I'm working for the best customer you can imagine, Dave just dropped off the best Xmas present I have ever received. An ESAB Thermal Dynamics Cutmaster 30+ plasma cutter! This thing is such a sweet toy, I used it today to cut out the last reinforcement plate for the D/S rail. I have wanted one of these for years so it is going to get a lot of use. Repairs on the wheel well lip can be a real bugger, the quarter panel and inner wheel well liner are so close there is very little room to work with. Fortunately, the off cuts of the KFV dog leg panels came in handy as they are a good match for the lip. Both floor pans are in now, if you install the rail first you can end up with a gap under the front seat mount even though it is at the correct height. So on the D/S I installed the seat mount first but found the rail to have a big gap, had to slice the end of the rail so I could get everything to line up and then weld it back together.

Most if not all welds in these pics aren't completed yet, I'm just trying to get the bulk of the metal work done before Xmas. Filling them in and finishing will be in the next stage. The front triangular sections of the rails were pretty banged up so I hammered them back into the best shape I could and now I'm adding 2.5mm plate on the bottom to add some strength and make them into jacking points. Dave stopped by with the rebuilt brake booster, they did a beautiful job. Two full days to figure out the deck lid supports and add the new deck lid. The KFV parts in this area are not all that accurate so lots of massaging was needed. Here is a little addition I wish Nissan had added back in the day, the original channels dump the water right into the corner of the deck lid and then it just sits there, rotting the metal. This extra 4" of channel has the water clear the deck lid before draining on to the ground. Made from the off cuts of the KFV panels.

This is at idle and engine is warm. I had a fuse blow and the tach went haywire.