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That was one of my most enjoyable and memorable days of my life, my friend!

Gundee, You really nail it! Now its totally different. More speed in first gear. Now its a real racing car. Ill check the spark plugs and revert.

He is most definately not "slow" or on the SPECTRUM. I met him, the Sasquatch in Memphis. Really weird dude but I let him in my car and we hit up some local breweries. We both got weird. Redneck from Alabama with an engineer from Philly.

That is an easy fix, remove the licence plate lamp unit, loosen the 2 10mm head screws for the latch and push it up a 1/8" tighten the screws back down, try closing the hatch. Over the years the latch can migrate down after so many openings and closings.

Interesting. Assuming the same material and coil diameter, the spring constant for a regular coil spring varies as the fourth power of the wire thickness. At 0.116" vs. 0.102", the shorter of your two springs should be 67% stiffer (lb/in). The fully-compressed height of the short spring looks like it would be 3.5 x 0.116" = 0.41". The free height looks to be ~ 75% that of the taller spring, so 0.75 x 1.035" = 0.78". Full compression distance would therefore be 0.78" minus 0.41" = 0.37", so the preload force exerted at full spring compression would be 0.37 x 1.67K = 0.62K, where K is the spring constant of the longer spring. Using the same approach, the longer spring looks like it would have a fully-compressed height of 4.5 x 0.102" = 0.46". Full compression distance would therefore be 1.035" minus 0.46" = 0.58", so the preload force exerted at full spring compression would be 0.58K. So (if I got my math right)... At full compression, the shorter spring will be exerting about 0.62 / 0.58 = 7% more preload force, compared with the longer spring. That's pretty close. In fact, they're probably the same. The shorter spring will be more sensitive to turning the adjustment screw in and out, and it will get from max. preload to zero preload a lot faster... but I can't see that being an advantage. So, why?

Reman's are a very hit or miss proposition these days!

The cap should be identical to your original that was removed IMO.

I finally had the opportunity to snap a couple pics of my later version window trim (sash?) mounting points. Certainly too late to help much now, but here's what I got. This last shot is a wide headed Phillips screw behind the door panel up at the door lock corner of the panel.

Now I have to wonder if that was part of the issue with the HEI module slow cranking. It starts so much better now. I'll see how it goes with the AM cold start.

I swapped the earlier starter back in, and this one cranks very nicely, regardless of starting after a short sitting period. I'll send the defective one back to RockAuto

I suspect that vintage cooler is built as well as anything you could buy today. It's probably repairable and I'm sure it can be cleaned out

Don't change two things at a time!!! Make the change Gundee suggested and drive the car! Only one change at a time. Always!

Shipping would be insane but definitely something to consider. What a great spare to have around.

Hang on…Wait until @gundeegets back to you. Slow down friend.

Rotate the engine, clockwise looking at it from the front to keep the timing chain tight, until the timing mark is at about 10 degrees. Remove the distributor cap. The leading edge of the rotor (it spins counterclockwise) should be pointing at the #1 electrode or the one opposite #1, depending on the stroke of the piston. So #1 or #6. If it's pointing anywhere else then you have a problem.

Go down to Nissan and get new plugs first. The fill plug is NLA from Nissan. The magnetic drain 32103-u840B is available. Gasket 38320-N3111 is available. Just picked mine up.

That would be this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0811GTVH2 It is not round (not important to me), and you have to add a ground wire (again not important to me). It does have an adjustable rate (something I like).

I assumed that was what you meant. I'll use the park light circuit, that covers any exterior lighting.

Man how I hate rebuilds. Glad you got it cranking reliably.

NO! Do not do that. Do not revert. Do not try anything else. The 3 ohm coil is different wiring. DON'T.

Mr Obvious, I had to talk into getting in the car. I was already 3 sheets in the wind. Drove over a bridge looking for him that said "Welcome to Arkansas". I turned around and found the Man with some shot glasses of home brew on a "plank". I'll remember that until my dementia takes over.

I think that I tapped the power wire to the headlight switch and ran a lead cut the wire to the buzzer power supply side, and replaced it with the new lead. When the door is closed there's no ground so no buzz, when it's open the buzzer gets current if the lights are left on. I drive all of my vehicles with the lights on in the daytime so it was useful.