Leaderboard

Bringing this back. I printed EuroDat's directions for reference. Honestly, the main reason for me to do this is to free up space - I need to add extra relays up under the dash, and the transistor ignition module is extremely bulky. I'm going to use a Bosch power stage heat sink as the form factor & pin locaters are identical, so it will occupy significantly less space than fitting the HEI inside the OEM box Volvo/Bosch coil for 90's model application. Different center post connection, however I already had Kingsborne wires made when I converted the ignition on my old X1/9, so the coil wire will work perfectly for the Z. Primary resistance value of this coil is in the ballpark suggested. Not a fan of aftermarket brand coils, so this will work for me. It would be even easier if a Bosch power stage could be used, since they are mounted in the bay with waterproof connection. SMP HEI Module & Bosch Heat Sink

Pic from the July invitational car show in Edmonton!

The diagram showing 10 pins used is wrong. I believe I addressed most if not all of this in your thread on the wipers. Note that two of the terminals are repeated, B & E. B = battery & E = earth/ground. You don't need two power or two ground wires. The 73 wiring diagram shows 9 pins, so I'll use that to explain. P = Park M = Motor 3 = High E = earth/ground B = Battery I = Intermittent W = Washer 2 = High 2 = Low Notice that the 3 isn't shown on this diagram and is also unused on the 75. Oops, I made an error. The 75 wiring diagram shows the 7 terminals being used. I think I made the right corrections above. The weather is cooling off soon, so I may be in the garage more in the near future. I can do some testing I've been wanting to do.

I’ll be a definite maybe on this. I am on vacation and can’t check at the moment. I am home next week if you have not found a set by then.

status update

I'm getting the same error. Probably the EU authorities "protecting" us from learning too much.....

Maybe, the link worked for me

Regarding the S31, my '77 (1/77) has a blue background.

So, for the rest of the relay panel, the bottom relay is called the AC relay sometimes and Accessory relay other times. It does provide power to the AC systems when they are present. In the 73, you can trace the wire downstream to the blower motor. For whatever reason, the horn relay and defogger relay have been swapped on your car. I can't tell you why. Relay 5 is a little confusing. In the 75 wiring diagram, you can find artifacts of the seat belt interlock relay that was yanked before the car went into production. In the 76 wiring diagram it looks like relay 5 is for the seat belt warning relay. The BY wire is energized only when the car is starting, so I would assume that the is coil wire. (Hint, measure resistance between the BY and B wires on the relay side. The coil will have a resistance reading. It's like measuring resistance between the 85 & 86 pins on a Bosch relay.)

The grease makes a mess of the citron/salt solution.. i can imagine that. What i do i throw the parts in a solution of washing powder (I prefer Biotex green) it cleans the part of grease and any rubber part becomes plyable again!!! I always use Biotex green to make any hard rubber soft again.. it works most of the time as long the rubber is not damaged. You do this with warm/hot 60C water and leave it in there for a week or so, sometimes look at it, clean it and some rubber parts will give a lot of black dirt from them. throw most of the old soapy water away and take some new soap and hot water once or twice in that week. You end up with a good part! Thanks for the nice reaction on the spring exspanding idea! it was my own!! If you don't do that you end up in a year or so with a spring that starts to rust because of the bad passification.

Bondo ( plastic body filler) is really not a suitable material for dealing with rust holes. It is not water proof so moisture can travel through it and continue the rusting process. Grannyknot is correct that the hole is probably larger than you suspect once you get back to sound metal. I also agree with the sentiment that you need to get the metal clean. I would also add a step of treating the rust with a phosphating chemical. This chemically converts what minor rust is left. If I was going to try to fill a hole after this and didn't have access to a welder then I would use short hair fiberglass resin. Fiberglass resin is totally water proof after it's cured. But bare in mind that fiberglass resin gets much harder than filler! It's harder to shape and finish well. Once the hole is sort of filled and sealed up you can use filler over the primed resin to make it smooth.

Here's another. I thought it might be an investment flip but there seem to be other reasons. Kind of humorous. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-108/ https://bringatrailer.com/member/2shots/

I've been looking into radio options for my 73 240Z and found a company that will take your radio and update all the internals but maintain the original face plate, housing, etc. It will even maintain full function of the pushbutton presets. It's not cheap, but provides a lot of options that you can pick and choose. Options include, bluetooth, hands free phone, usb, flashdrive, mp3, etc. You will end up with a 180 watt 4 channel unit. I priced it for mine with all the options and the price was $550. The web site is: www.tech-retro.com. They have a good video on the site that demonstrates the unit and all the features. The actual work is performed through authorized dealers throughout the US. The one closest to me is in Chicago area. I've spoke to him several times and he's been very helpful, plus he's a car guy. Paul (z3beemer)