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The Chevy V8 (LR4) & 4l60e trans are going in the Volvo wagon I made into a pickup truck last year. I just need the Z safe to drive for now.

Did the mustache bar bushings and the inner control arm bushings. If I can't extract the outer c/arm bushings in-situ tomorrow, I'll have to drop the arms entirely. I'll get the trans jack if that happens, I'll need it anyway for the V8/4l60E drivetrain. Forward bushings are longer than the rears. For mustache bar, the original bushing sleeves need to be kept, so I holesawed the rubber out & wire brushed the sleeve of residual rubber rear bushing sleeves came off with just a little soaking old remnants

A good discussion here https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/43876-n49-n54-needles/ The N27/54 needles don’t appear on SU needle charts as I believe (and happy to be corrected) they were not SU needles, they were Hitachi / Datsun needles. As mentioned above, the best bet is to mark and measure them at 3mm intervals (stations). I did this with my modified SM needles to model them on excel and compare to other off the shelf (SU) needles. It only takes 10 mins to do and then you can post it here for anyone else looking in the future too! :p I then went a bit nuts and tried to video what positions where in use at what loads / RPMs ;)

My baby was a Christmas build 🎅

My Z has a 4/71 build date just like this one and my seats have the fabric strapping below the seat cushion. This one appears to have the metal cushion supports like on later cars. Replacement seats from a later model Z?

When I look at the underside pic of the seat, I see some pretty rough attachments at the various seat barbs suggesting those covers are not OE. The factory would never have released seats like that. Also the vinyl is exceptiionally smooth, doesn't show the typical grain of OE seat covers.

The neoprene cover is cemented with Seal All, one of the very few adhesives that is gasoline resistant, it will be on there for many years I'm sure.

PM me your e-mail address and I'll see if I can send a PDF file to you.

Okay.. not rubber.. but just remember when the engine starts to act up after a few hundred miles that it could be that your neoprene is gone..

Measure the diameter of each needle with a micrometer every 8 to 10 mm, along the shaft and compare. That should tell you if they are the same or different. I did just that when looking for an advantage by getting extra fuel with the SUs on my race Z. I was able to find a pair of needles that tapered more than the stock set, and gave more fuel, and ultimately more power and acceleration.

I'm pretty much positive the needles that come in the generic rebuild kits are the wrong profile. According to some of the documentation, they claim to be suitable for the 72 carbs, but I think that's incorrect as well. The needles that are supposed to be in the 4-screw SU's are N-27's. I can see the "N" in one of your pics, but can't read the rest of it. Can you read it? Many people change over to "SM" needles, but I'm not a fan. If you want original profile needles and can't find them commercially, let me know. As for sealing up the shafts, yes... One side is pretty simple. Just cap over the whole thing. Other side where the linkage connects is a little more complicated, but putting an O-ring in there would certainly help. How sloppy are they? Is the shaft worn through the chrome plating into the brass?

22710-N4400 is part of the catalytic converter operating system on later production NAPS (Nissan Anti Pollution System-equipped) Japanese market models:

I couldn't find a thread on this subject, so I started one. For the future reference of others who, like me, live in a area where obscure metric bolts and taps are difficult to find, the bolts for the seat belts on a 1971 240Z are a rather unusual size. They are M11 x 1.25. Some of the bolt holes had some dammaged threads. Bolts would go in just a little hard, but when they came back out the threads were rounded off. I tried the old trick of trying to clean the threads with a bolt by cutting a grove in the threads to make it look like a tap, but it didn't work. So I searched for most of the day for a local (Within a 50 mile radius) supplier of a tap in the size mentioned, without success. Finally my Mechanical Engineer son asked if there was an S.A.E. equivalent... silly question I thought until I did the math. 7/16" = 11.1mm 20 threads/inch = 1.27mm/thread I found some SAE 7/16 x 20 bolts and nuts in my assortment of random bolts, and to my suprise the M11 X 1.25 bolt threads into a 7/16 x 20 nut perfectly. You would never know they are different. I bought a tap for the SAE size at the local auto parts (Napa) store. The metric bolts threaded in and tightened up perfectly.