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Wilwood 2 piston calipers and 280ZX solid rotors in the rear (no parking brake), and a Tilton dual master cylinder pedal assembly with adjustable balance bar, and asymmetrical master cylinder sizes (sorry, I don’t recall the diameters, I’ll check when I get a chance).

Looks nice, you are doing some great work on this Z. I did this mod back before anyone made a “kit” for it. Sourced the Toyota 4x4 calipers and 300ZX rotors from the local parts supplier, made a drawing in CAD for the spacers and had a local machine shop cut a pair from 7075 T1 aluminum, picked the longer bolts at the local specialty bolt supplier. It was on my race Z, so I didn’t use the backing plates, instead custom building aluminum cooling ducts to direct air to the center of the rotors and also to the calipers. I made up my own stainless braided Teflon hoses with 37 degree JIC fittings and all the hard lines from stainless steel tubing. Works awesome, brakes that last all weekend at a race meet and don’t require bleeding after every track session.

Hi, did you look inside with a camera? They can be bad.. Framerails, i made them myself, if you look close they are not that difficult to make yourself.. Especially when you only need the "under the floor" part(s).

It was fine on mine but I have a European ‘77 260z with different vinyl to the 240 so I can’t say it will be fine for yours. Best to measure the MLV you use (I.e. 5mm thick or 3mm) then use something of the same thickness like say cardboard and try to put your vinyl over it to see if it causes issues. If you don’t do the strut towers it’s bit the end of the world. I don’t carry a spare wheel, just a can of puff and a pump and use the space for things like spares, jump leads etc. So for me it did resonate but your point is valid. Also my spare used to fit so tight that I’m not sure it would fit now without delating it.

Finally tracked down an original set of 1971 plug leads (had to buy a complete car to get them!), they are different to 1970 in having white lettering and the #6 plug boot with a 45 degree bend. Just have to model that up in Solidworks and print out a test piece. The 1970 wires and boots are all sorted and modelled. Print samples work fine on the test engine.

Yep, using an o2 sensor and an AEM air/fuel gauge I was able to get it to run stoich after the forum and I worked through this thread. I was actually pretty astonished at how well it holds stoich at freeway speed as long as your TPS is set right - it won't hold it while driving around town, you kind of tune the AFM so that it runs stoich at highway speed (it will run richer around town by design and won't lean-out) Here is how to do it: - get rid of ALL vacuum leaks using the hand pump and cigarette method - once you are SURE all are gone, run through the EFI bible and check all sensors to make sure they're in spec - once all your vacuum leaks are gone, your TPS is set correctly per atlanticz, lean the AFM back 3 teeth (counterclockwise) and it will run stoich at highway speed, sound/feel healthier around town, and smell more like a modern car - I'd HIGHLY recommend doing this with an air fuel gauge/o2 sensor so you can be sure your numbers are right, but if you do everything above, you should be good

I've seen Golden Earring 3 times , all great shows. I have every album they ever produced. Awesome band.

Sure enough, a few weeks later on Y!.jp, up pops this piece for less than $200. Looks authentic enough. Now I have a spare.

There is only 1 bid on record for that username (for that "engine") and no comments on record. It can make a reasonable person wonder.

I wouldn't put too much faith in the 'JDM' part of the description by the vendor. The term is often misused. In this case I think it more likely that the vendor is referring to something that was made in Japan, and has come from Japan. EGR was required in Japan on the S130-series and other domestic market models which used the L28 engine. The L28 was available in Japanese market Cedric and Gloria models from 1975. Factory type code of this spec L28 engine is shown on the factory label. 'HL469V'. That's the key to correctly identifying it.

Agree with the 'get it running' if you can guys. I bought my current 240 for way less than he wanted because I couldn't drive it, hear the motor or anything. He said it was something simple... Turns out it was worth the $5,000 asking price. I paid $2,000.

Finally got back to the brakes. I bought the ZcarDepot kit, which comes with no directions. I didn't realize that the supplied hose is intended to replace both flex & rigid lines, it didn't appear long enough. Besides that, the back plates have to be modified to clear the larger Toyota S12 caliper. I had cleaned out the old grease from the hubs, and repacked the wheel bearings in preparation for reassembly. So, I filled the hubs with new bearing grease as per the FSM, and installed the inner bearings & grease seals. I also found I never received the 8 longer bolts with the brake kit. Thankfully I had extra bolts from a CEIKA brake kit. Rotor spacer in place. CEIKA bolts. Vented rotors bolted to hubs. Single hose to replace original hoses Hose installed into caliper first, to prevent twisting or binding the hose Modifying the back plate. Sections removed I didn't want to leave cut edges on the back plate, so I reduced & welded the folded edges back on Cleaned up, primed, painted & installed Hubs & rotors installed, bearings adjusted. Longer studs installed for the Konig wheels Nice touch on the grease caps, oring seal Pads & hardware installed. The outer pad didn't have the hole for the damper spring, had to drill it out Just need to bleed the brakes

Had to take a break from the Z - I'm driving the X1/9 to Carlisle Import Show tomorrow, so yesterday I changed the oil & filter (been about 500 miles since the rebuild) and swapped out the wheels & tires for the new Federal 595's on Rota TBTs

My POS body guy gave my car back to me with very straight body lines. But the paint looked like it needed sanding so I had a friend do it. But when he started, he sanded color. Then he offered to repaint it. His paint job looked great. Unfortunately, after I started putting the car back together, I became suspicious about the rear quarters when I put a set of old rims on the car. The wheel offset was off. I got a tape measure out and it was all screwed up. The underneath looked bad too. I couldnt understand why. It wasnt in that bad of shape when I gave it to him. But I had to live with it because shortly after I picked up the car, he blew his head off. So now I am paying a shop to undo his work. Then do it correctly. They will have had the car for about 6-7 months. I think I will get it back in a couple weeks.