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Seller claims to not know the lone bidder, but I call shenanigans. Even if the bidder was legit, why would anybody pick that number as a starting bid? I could see somebody bidding $100 with the hopes of getting a few usable parts, but $1,350??? Shame on BaT for accepting this listing.

Try here, https://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/8267499

Shockingly, somebody bid $1,450 in the last few minutes of the auction.

You have what looks like a very nice 240Z. Keep in mind that you missed the peak. I've seen BaT Z's come down a bit over the past few months. That said, you should do well. My dad sold a car on Hemmings last year and did very well, so you might check that site out as well.

So, I'm thinking about posting my car online at BAT. It's a 1973 white/red 240z that I bought 3 years ago from the original owner. 47 years owned! I even have the original sales receipt and title. Summary of things I've done or in a couple of limited cases (suspension), paid to have done: Gas tank restore, chem wash, all new vapor and gas lines, fuel filters, etc Restored original steel rims and 1973 set of hubcaps; added more classic profile tires Installed rebuilt SU ('70-'72) Paltech carbs, powder coated air housing, new coolant lines, fuel rail, yanked out 73 emissions bits, etc Suspension: Eibach progressive springs, shocks, bushings, Motorsport Auto sway bars 1973 bumper molding replacement (bump/fender gap) -- this was extremely hard to find; wound up buying it from another Z Forum user from Denmark Exhaust system: New ceramic coated header and full performance exhaust system (Motorsport Auto) Reinstalled original 6.5w radio + 2 5" speakers + tied-in to replaced retractable antenna Installed separate bluetooth, amp, 2 6x9 speakers for upgraded sound experience Interior (new): vinyl kit, door panel restoration, new upholstered seats (Motorsport Auto), replaced red interior panels throughout, floor mats, rearview mirror, new ashtray, center console, etc Full detailing of interior, insulation of interior for noise reduction, fixed tachometer wiring, fixed break system leak, speedometer cable replacement, choke cable refurbishment, misc grommets and fasteners, electronic ignition, new ballast Original 4-speed manual transmission. Original color was Himalayan White, but it is currently a Pearl White. Motor was rebuilt about 20 years ago. Compression good across all 6 cylinders. Still have tons of original parts including the flat top carbs and air filter housing Working A/C. A few pics below. Any thoughts on best sites? I'm guessing BAT, but also considering eBay or Hagerty Marketplace.

The display auction ends today, in about 2 hours, 40 minutes. One very early bid. Looks like some sort of odd attempt to generate interest in a bunch of scrap parts. E88 head on an F54 block. It doesn't even have value as a display engine. I bet that the bidder gets paid back by the seller and they both agree that it didn't work. Might also just be an advertisement for the shop. Using BaT for advertising. They got used, I think.

Partnumber says 1981 280zx engine! Engine Assembly - 1981 Nissan 280ZX (nissanpartsdeal.com)

First of all, thank you all for your input. To clarify my specs: 11/69 240Z vin in the 300's 1982 F-54 280zx turbo block MN-47 high quench head. NA with 2 SU carbs revamped by Ztherapy Pertronix Electric Ignition and hi volt FLAME coil Low speed/High Torque starter. 6-3-2-1x2.5inch headers to muffler to 2x2inch dual side exaust. Super Light weight flywheel Stage II clutch Borg Warner T-5 5-speed transmission from 1982 ZX turbo car R180 3.364 rear end Panasport "For Racing Only" super light weight rims with 215/60-R15 tires 4-Core aluminum radiator. 16.9 gal custom aluminum tank. Brakes: Original front disks and back drums. Master Cylinder: 15/16 Booster 7" Dual Diaphragm (and yes i did have to make new holes to attach it) So this is the scenario issues that were mentioned above. Brake booster and appropriate master cylinder potential replacements due to very hard brakes with current system. Thinking about going original design but cant find them. Brake light on speedometer always on but not connected to the switch on the firewall Another issue that just came up this weekend is that the throttle rod from the accelerator to the pedal came out of the plastic round ball joint on the engine side. Looking for a new one. Anyway, as always, any info, suggestions or comments are greatly appreciated even if it does not directly apply, so thank you all for your input.

Well the datsun spline is 10.7 mm OD and also has 16 splines, so maybe just start with a Chevy adapter and turn the splined part down to 10.7mm, deepen the splines and Bob’s your uncle. the OD of the non-splined part below the Datsun splines is 12mm. Darn close to 1/2”, so that adapter might just slip right over and work once you “adjust” the splines a bit. Or put Chevy crank handles on the Chevy splines and be done! Who’s going to notice! (Sorry had to add that)

Looks like it has an N42 intake manifold without the egr like '76 and '75s but the fuel rail looks to be '78. Also looks like a ZX head with the electrical plug above the dipstick between #6 & #5 plugs.

Why settle for this when you could have a brand new, still in the box 280Z engine! https://www.ebay.com/itm/275898478727?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D250320%26meid%3Dbfd39797ef364edf8a07677310865c6e%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D256108725951%26itm%3D275898478727%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithLambda85AllKnnRecallsAndCassiniVisualRankerWithIsoCalib%26brand%3DDatsun&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A275898478727bfd39797ef364edf8a07677310865c6e|enc%3AAQAIAAABUJhgQCVQMNiMdHWIfVoOoEEV17BTrzrJIBLpH%2B7G1tmr6LbW6GxCi5cJVuKARaIw8u8a18iuW1XB4GguG2sb7sx96fY6TQxzseCoM4VvEpmPcYoYmZxMJ1MbToI5%2B1xtOEsTNZGisyNqUAVOA3%2FuhVLnLj9ODsnQrIJAJppmAvGamRrwHW36kmdGZm14r1aBHrI4AiUgn7tdeGaT4UHwSPYXvm5MsWiqCOB6vvaiyvZJHf27JAg2fP%2B8xIOP5ah6GRwOGIiY2HX1L0kWm%2F9rX0SSeWCsvALZr5yu%2FVIuEsWAEAbUPbG2vp0DFbqyDxmKi75aMTSl%2Fr8dImLaJmfZV2GHzJgd%2FtO0iMzBboQds%2Bq1wiiujuWTdxm3fmOJSXO9BPvt4OugUs%2FctswpY5oARv%2BZY5lIiHx4zKg0Fz0kLeKQ3kLnGqEPVxDw%2F1go0DmqLA%3D%3D|ampid%3APLX_CLK|clp%3A2047675

It's meant to be display art. It's all full of bling and flash. New looking parts and plated pieces that add lots of reflection. Real zow factor - worth BIG bucks. Bid early and bid large!

And again we all can see that designing (a car) is a job not everyone can just DO! 😂

I'm guessing it was for ground effects and not getting rid of exhaust in the cabin. I wonder if it worked for either one?

It's a year ago that this topic was on the "today's listing" and i haven't worked on the car for over a year.. It's still on the lift in the garage.. When the heating stopped working in the garage and i got to ill to work on it.. it came to a halt.. So.. in the coming month i get some heat pumps installed in the house AND in the garage! (Normally i would install these myself. but no energy..) Also the carport is worked on and it will get much bigger, from 6 to almost 12 meters long! (I try to get it finished in august i hope.. normally a days work for 2 people.. 😞 ) As for the 280zx, i'm only looking for a nice trunk cover in blue.. Here a pic of my (sold long ago) red/black inside 280zx 1983. trunk cover.. It's so damn frustrating to be a handy man with no energy.. Or like the energy of a 100 year old... I hope there comes a day that doctors find out what the hell is wrong with me. 😒

I see that as the far more riskier option than using my chassis. unless the chassis shell is blasted and in epoxy you wont be able to tell whether there is rust. secondly you gents drive on the wrong side of the road! by the time you convert the currency its roughly the same cost for the shop to do it

After a while, you get a feel for how to loose set them so they end up at the proper clearance after tightening the lock nut.

Ca Datsun is where the engine parts came from.