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Hi, Alan and xs10shl or other people, can you find out what it is? A bolt for fixing the transmission case. The bolt’s head has a hole, I guess it should be used for a wire securing. But how I can do that? Two bolts adjacent each other should be tied? Or any other way? I have got this transmission yesterday, I made a gamble for this. The seller said this is Option 3, stand-by duty for a racing team. And he heard it came from Speed Shop KUBO, really? I rotated the rear end flange to see how much turn does the input shaft make. The seller and I confirmed it is close to the Option 3 ratio. Without any internal pictures, but I jumped in. I am scared to open the case, let’s see what I will have. Kats

I found this early this morning looking for a paint brush. The return is the small hole and as I understand it's the restriction that makes up the fuel pressure for our carbs.

That's a nice purchase, Kats. I am jealous! Quite possible it did indeed come from SS KUBO. Kubo san acquired many parts from Tomei, Scuderia Nissan and the Works team over the years he was involved in racing and afterwards. He picked up a lot of rare parts. There's a small mention of lockwiring in the first Nissan Sports 'Yellow Book' from 1970. This was for the oil pan bolts, but - as Patcon mentions - this was common in aviation and specialist machinery preparation since the beginning of the industrial revolution (I've seen it used on steam pumps from the early 1800s...). Typically the bolts are locked against each other to stop loosening from vibration. Here's an example from a Works rally L24:

I got lucky. When the factory set the proper position, they put a blob of silicone (or something) onto the clamp that holds the gear in position. The lucky part was when the PO moved the gear, it split the silicone blob into two pieces. One part on the clamp, and one part on the gear. I rotated the gear back such that the two halves of the silicone blobs lined up again. I've been inside other AFM's and the blobs are gone completely. Thankfully on this AFM, the split blob was an easy way to tell where the gear belonged.

Yes, typically they are wired to each other Sometimes they are all wired in series. I don't know if the bolts are available already drilled. I know many times racers will drill them themselves to make safety wiring possible. I don't know historically but many modern racing classes require some level of safety wiring

Okay, I'll start. On my 7/70 the chocks are 0G, (= 1970-July) and my jack is PFI, (= 1970-June-9). I bought and stripped a 12/70 parts car about 25 years ago and I believe these chocks were in that car when I got it, one still shows an inked stamp with what I think is 9G, (= 1969-July)

That also appears to be what carpartsmanual shows too

Of course I could be wrong here, but I am pretty sure the 240 metal shroud has always been one piece metal. There were some one piece fiberglass ones sold aftermarket The 260 - 280 was two piece plastic as you stated and show in the picture. That makes me interested to see the upper half you mentioned.

Great books and parts! I am wondering the data of FS5C71B, my understanding is after 08/1976 they got 3.321 for the 1st gear except Australia. Before that all the export FS5C71B was the same as GTR and Fairlady 240Z series, also Z432( Z432-R was discontinued before the birth of FS5C71B anyway). Am I correct? I know you have already read through the Nissan transmission manual, so my inputs are for everyone here who is interested in the data. I also have the small book but for 1970, it is interesting descriptions in Spanish! I can’t understand any of them but will be a good textbook for learning Spanish. I amended some data which is inaccurate for the gear teeth. Kats

To the original poster (OP), I offer my opinion. I only have experience with Mikuni 44's... so stating that up front. David Weber of Malvern Racing (long dead, but was a friend of mine when I was a young kid) told me that Mikuni 44's are the best carb for Datsuns. He didn't care for any Webber variant and the 40's were no good either in his opinion. I was 18, and running a 2.3L stroker motor in my 510. Know that there are many variables in engine building and you can get lost in them. That said, don't. Rebuild the 44's you have. Match the intake side ports of the manifold to the carbs outlet if you wish, or don't. Not an issue for a street car. Taper from intake inlet to head side should be gradual, but for a street car, again, it doesn't really matter. Do source RUBBER carb isolators. Dave said the others are trash, and Mikuni's won't operate properly if the fuel is bouncing around inside the carbs. Mikuni's can be tuned for street without issue. I was running 40mm chokes on the 510, and it was totally streetable with a 490/290 cam. It was my car in college. Lotsa fun. Separately, I have run 44's on my 240z as well. 2.933L technically because sonic bore testing wouldn't allow me to go past 88.5 on the bore. Narly cam, still totally streetable. Lots of fun. The crazy loud wine is a Kameari chain tensioner which I may have had a bit tight.