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I set up for blasting parts on Saturday. It was sunny and cool, great weather for blasting. When I was using play sand, my blue tarp caught like 90% of it. Switching over and using Black Diamond (coal slag product) for the first time, I noticed two things. It is much more aggressive than play sand - Haha! And, it travels a greater distance, so my tarp wasn't catching it all. As I said previously, the plan was to blast and prime and paint all the parts from that long list at once. Right... good one. The best laid plans... I made good progress though, running through and refilling the pressure blaster 5 times over the span of about 5 hours. So, now I have switched to doing blasting on weekend days as weather permits, and priming and painting in the evenings. The black diamond leaves quite a texture on the parts: Stripping of paint and surface rust is quicker, but I didn't want to leave the texture this rough. So, I am taking each piece and running it through my glass bead cabinet to smooth out the roughness: Driveshaft u-joints appear to be original and feel like they are in great condition: So, instead of all at once, I have a few phases of "production" - some parts still to strip, some stripped bare, some epoxy primed and waiting for minor filling of scrapes and nicks, and some painted black: We'll see what the weather and this weekend allows.

My work leads me to believe that they would not absorb fluid. That said, however... If I have a damaged one and a non-damaged one, I'ma gonna use the undamaged one.

I've got a small vapor honing booth at my shop, which is good enough to clean things like windshield wiper arms and carburetor lids. For the big stuff, I tried out a new local service called Spray Technology in Santa Clara CA, who had heavy-duty equipment, and I was not disappointed. Everything looks better-than-new.

There is a plastic bushing in the linkage piece mounted to the firewall that started sloppy from the factory and has only gotten worse over the years. It is not replacable as there is a metal joint swaged into place that prevents disassembly. Many moons ago, I rebuilt one, spending a completely unprofitable amount of time milling the swaged metal off so I could take it apart, making a new bushing, and threading the previously swaged joint for reassembly. Turned out great, but I would loathe doing it again. As for the spring and washer joint at the end of the hook... It looks stock to me. Maybe a missing washer between the spring and the linkage? But no... That system was not dreamed up by your PO. Nissan did that.

@DatsunZGuy you are the man. I went to Orielly and had them ship in Trico 47-600, Trico 47-700, and 47-800. 47-600 was much to small in width, 47-800 was too large. So if anyone sees this thread in the future and has the 77-78 280z model, keep you blade and just "refill" the rubber with Trico 47-700 wiper refills. I had to just barely bend the claws on the blade, but nothing crazy at all to make it fit. Cost me a whole 9$😃.

If you are on Facebook, look up Sal Ceja - he probably has all of the bits you are looking for. There are several Sal Ceja's on FB, his account will be the one with Z cars in the photos.

I did a whole transmission twice in a vapor honing setup. It took forever! Looks amazing though.

As some guys here know, i'm also here to learn some english writing.. 😉 Hey Paul.. read your paper on the engine in the first pic.. hihi.. what kind of linkage? I don't have a good answer on your question, but overall.. there are A LOT of differences in these cars parts.. sigh..

Yeah.. me dummy.. i was thinking of the 280zx pressure there as those have the pump under the fueltank. they need a high pressure filter as your car has at the moment.. (i think i see one on the pictures.. like a 280zx fuelfilter.)

The problem is that for the one relay you need a dual coil and a suitable relay base. You won't find that in a Bosch style relay. If you are lucky, you might find such a relay made for another car, but you would still need to add the base if you can find it. You will probably end up using two relays or doing the smart thing and staying with the factory style relays.

I believe they're closed cell foam. An easy test would be weigh it, submerge it in fuel for a day or two and reweigh it.

I've wondered if that foam would absorb any fuel making them heavier? Seems like it would. @Captain Obvious after your float work do you think they could absorb any fluid?

I have one if you're interested. I see that you're in OKC, I'm in Dallas so I can ship it to you or you can drive down since it's pretty close.

Agreed. Never had any leaks or issues if it is BEHIND the fuel pump. I have a video of how little pressure the filter is actually under too. Just have to make sure the filter is made for suction. The clear filter helped me spot that the pickup tube inside the fuel tank had a hole in it. I could see bubbles collecting in the fuel filter instead of a laminar flow of gasoline. Would have been nearly impossible for my novice self to figure out without that hint.

Aftermarket quality on mechanical fuel pumps has been abysmal. I tried one on someone's car. I removed it and used the diaphragm from it on the old fuel pump. The old fuel pump was fine with the new diaphragm.

Just google Bosch 0 332 514 120 and you will find them for the Porche 912E, BMW's, Mercedes, Opels, Volvo, Peugeot etc. It will plugin and work perfectly.

RB positioned for fabricating engine and transmission mounts. For anyone who’s gone this route, you’ve probably dealt with the issue of the throttle body running into the inner fender, especially when using anything larger than stock. I’m using a Bosch DBW throttle body which puts me right up against the body. I wanted to avoid modifying the car to accommodate this, so the flange on the intake was cut reoriented, welded, and blended back to better fit the S30. Still tight, but enough room for the piping.

You won't find a single relay to replace the EFI relay UNLESS you use a relay designed for the Bosch system. The nice thing is that you can still find the relays. Just look for the EFI relay on a Beetle. It's the same.

Given the wire sizes in the harness, 70A (alternator) and 30A (all others) would probably be appropriate. Blue Sea provides the fuse curves for their Maxi Fuses. https://www.bluesea.com/products/5143/MAXI_Fuse_-_80_Amp The curve is the same for each amperage as it's based upon percent of fuse rating.

A clear fuel filter before the fuel pump will be fine. No high pressure at that point in the system

Congrats Jamal!