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You might have missed this because it wasn't the problem in site's case. But it is a big deal if the panel is not completely sealed around the edges. There is no way to seal all of the entrances in to the inside of the back hatch lid. The area around the latch loop cannot be sealed without lots of effort. The best way to keep the gases from getting sucked in is to completely seal the perimeter of the cardboard panel. I used stick-on foam weather-stripping from Home Depot. The funny thing about the problem is that opening the windows makes it worse. It creates low pressure in the cabin, which causes anything hanging out behind the car to get sucked in through the hatch lid.

Somehow, someway buyers find the ad, even outside the US. For international sales, I direct the buyer to an eBay ad. eBay offers Global Shipping Program which allow the seller to ship to a US address, then eBay coordinates the international delivery. Keith

Thanks for letting us know. Craigslist functionality is geographic/regional by default, so it can be hard for buyers outside your area to find the info. Do you ship, or do you find that you can find enough buyers in your region? Here is a tip for searchers if they have time and patience. It works to look at listings on Craigslist in more than one's own geo area using the special Google search command "site:" put your search words first, then a space, then "site:craigslist.org" like this: The special site: search works for any site. I use it to find stuff on Amazon without looking through all the garbage they want to push (their search results are awful). I also use it for searching this site. For example, try "original carpets site:classiczcars.com". Do not include the www. or https or whatever is in front.

I post all the surplus parts I want to sell on Craigslist. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/d/plano-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z-parts/7566587364.html Keith

Hey fella! I’ve been off the Z scene and all things Z related for just over a year. Just had way too much going on and training for the 2022 Etape du Tour took all my free weekend time. Poor Z only did 70-80 miles last year. Great to be conversing with you and Z buddies again. Apologies to to OP for my non thread related post. The brakes are pretty simple so I’m certain you will find the issues before long.

Original D Hubcaps from my 1971 Z (sold)

Looks like the mounting pedestal is backwards. The clamping screw screw should be to the front. Might be some other things not quite right. It's funny how hard it is to find a simple good picture of how the drive quill should be oriented. Probably why so many people have problems with it. Nissan never really got it right throughout ll of the years of the FSM. 1978 isn't bad though.

Many of us have used VC for electrical connectors, especially for 240Zs. They announced that they will need to increase prices in February, and they encouraged people to place their orders before the price increase. Fortunately for me, I just restocked before they announced the future increase.

In my serv.man. it says: (page EM20) it should be on 11:25 hour and smaller bow-shape should be facing towards the front.. so.. it looks good! Why a engine does not run perfect, there are a lot of reasons.. change the sparkplugs or the wiring or the distributor, use fresh fuel.. these days the fuel can be the problem as there is some E10 in it and cause misfires? lots of reasons... Distributor and ignition coil original or aftermarket (junk? oeps...😢) Old contacts or no contacts but aftermarket eh... "replacements"? Yeah, i'm a fan of original ignition.. with contacts.. as i'm driving only 1-2,000 km a year.. last year i renewed the contacts on my 240z after over 20000km.. was still good but replaced them.

I think there must be too much "friction in the process", meaning providing information about what exists to be sold by the seller, and an any easy way for the buyer to find what one needs without wasting time viewing items not needed, etc. eBay, forums, craigslist, Facebook, etc. are where people are spending time looking. But, each is lacking. Also, a lack of motivation/desire/initiative is an issue preventing selling/buying. Can I hit you up with a PM of my current list of stuff I am after?

I have alot of parts. Most of which I hold onto because I dont want them in the landfill. At some point I might get serious about getting rid of them. I'm not sure the classifieds is the best method. I have had mixed results there. I agree with the sentiment that somebody is probably looking for something I have and dont want much for and would like to see go to a good home.

Thanks for the head's up. I placed an order.

If I am honest, one of the reasons I started this thread is that I know there are people here who have lots of spares, but the classifieds section doesn't get much attention. Perhaps the classifieds section is too cumbersome to use. There are certainly parts in the hands of members here that will never make their way back into cars and that is a shame. So everyone, please consider this an opportunity to tell the other members that you have parts that you would be willing to let go of. Your post could just be - "I have some parts I'd be willing to let go of". Or, you could include a description and pictures. Hell, if you need help creating a listing for the classifieds, let me know. I'll help and see how that goes. Help prevent liquidation of your Z stuff at an estate auction (or from being thrown in the garbage) after you are dead. And, if you don't want to sell stuff, but just want to share cool parts in your possession, then please do! And please provide pics! I recently scored on eBay by buying a NOS lock that came with these:

8325 is right behind it. Better shape, seems to be. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-247/

Yes, i thought something like that... but what kind of 4 barrel carb should then be installed between these two parts... i never had a 4 barrel in my hands or seen one live! Hahaha... it's not Japanese so i don't know them haha..

It's been a while Mr. AK. What's been happening?

Very nice and sharp! It looks pretty close to perfect! If you make it too perfect it gets nerve racking to drive it...

Found this going through a box when I started my restoration. I think I bought it as a spare many years ago when my wheel cylinder seized.

I appreciate the compliment - thank you! It's been a while since I provided an update, but I have been working hard on body work, trying to finish it up. I actually have been redoing some body work that I was not happy with. For example, I realized I was not going to be happy with the right front fender. I got it as good as I could, and then realized that the rear edge of the wheel opening was pushed in a little. You can see it here: The fender was hit in this area, and when I worked to straighten it, I did not realize that this corner was still pushed in some. I spent hundreds of hours most likely on this fender in total only to have to redo it. I actually got out my Port-o-Power and jacked against the part of the fender in the corner of the yellow lines to push it out. That cracked some of the primer and filler. And of course, I sanded the effected area back to metal and started with body work again. Additionally, I have spent a lot of time on door fitment. Some pics: For the door gaps, I aligned the doors to the best possible position first. This averaged out the gaps at the front, rear, and bottom. Additionally, the door shells (empty of all parts and hardware) are somewhat "flexible". That is to say, I twisted them a bit to then find the best fit for the outside edge of the door panel with that of the fender and that of the quarter panel. From that point forward, filler and primer were used to get the surfaces to match from fender to door, and from door to quarter panel. Left door - to left quarter panel: Left door to left fender: To get the fit this close, I am fixing the door into position where it can't move, and then use sanding blocks across the gaps. So, the surfaces of the adjacent panels become continuous. Right side door to quarter panel: Right side door to fender: Right side door gaps: None of it is perfect, but I am trying. I've got very little time left before I have to hand it over to the painter. I made plans back in November to drop it off to them in January. But that was before reworking the fender and so now I am running behind. I have precious little time left to finish up!

I have never seen those license plate lamps, very cool! These were removed at the dealer when the customer wanted mags on his new z. The customer gave them to me in the early 80's when he was cleaning out his attic.

I don't maintain much of a stock of Nissan parts, but there are many parts I keep in stock, either for my cars or to help other people with their cars. I did buy a bunch of combo switches about 10 years ago that I have used for parts and to help others keep their Zs lit up. Then again, I'm not striving to do a restoration like yours. I am more of a person who enjoys keeping them running.

There's a vinyl rectangle on the inside bottom of the rear hatch above the locking mechanism. Mine needed resealing I thought but after the simple first fix I found the evap hoses that run behind the interior plasic cover where the brake lights are was were mine was stinking. There's a couple of round rubber plugs that dry rot and crack also. That stuff seems minimal but the way the air flows over the hatch and kind of rolls over and over behind the taillights above the rear bumper it gets sucked into the cab pretty good. I used duct tape and covered everything to see what helped and what didn't. Once I figured out where it was coming from I fixed things and moved to the next possible source. Eventually it went away. During the mean time I kept the driver's side window down.