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This is an awesome site! I feel like I can get into some serious trouble here 😂

This didn't happen to my Z, but i thought you guys would find this amusing. I have a 1991 Mazda B2200 pickup, and about a week ago it started making an awful noise just as i was pulling up to my garage. I immediately shut the engine down. Upon inspection I noticed one of the nuts used to hold the air cleaner assy. to the carburetor was missing. Oh boy. I figured it thrashed an entire cylinder, piston/valves/cylinder walls etc. When I pulled the head I found it wedged between the valve seat and the #4 intake valve. It never entered the bottom end or made contact with the piston. When I removed the nut I put mineral spirits in the combustion chamber with the valves closed/head upside down and could see only a little bit of fluid escaping the seat of of the #4 intake runner. Still enough to call it a bad seal, but trivial compared to what could've happened. The other ones hold fluid for hours. I ordered a new intake valve,some valve seals, and new hydraulic lash adjusters while I have the rocker arms assy. off. I'll lap it in and hopefully it'll be ok. Guess I'll use LocTite on that air filter housing from now on.

these guys make custom fab parts for S30 and S130. Spendy but good. You have a Z, so you will get used to buying expensive parts haha. I have their rear diffuser on my ZX with stock bumpers. https://skillard.com/product/datsun-280zx-front-bumper/?doing_wp_cron=1666443077.2546410560607910156250 https://skillard.com/product/datsun-280zx-aluminum-rear-bumper/?doing_wp_cron=1666443542.6582000255584716796875

Very interesting video and glad to see an original owner that actually knows a lot about his 240Z. Also glad to see that Mr. David Cash is alive and well. He is #80 on our "Z Car Original Owners Register” from 1999. http://zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/original.htm #1 or #2 Condition? Several Classic, Collectable and Special Interest Price Guides have been published for decades and most of them define what Condition #1 or Condition #2 means. If you look at enough of them over the years they all more or less have the same general definitions of the meaning of the Condition rating numbers. - if not the exact specific definition. Some divide the group broadly into 4 Condition Categories, while others use 6 or more Condition Categories to more specifically define the over-all Condition of the car. Being an old guy, I still like the 6 Condition Categories as defined by the Old Cars Price Guide. http://zhome.com/Buying/OldCarsPriceGuide.htm Of course today we seem to be living in a society that rejects the concept of having words or terms that have any documented and agreed to definitions.

This crossed my path a couple weeks ago, at the time a 2000GT was on BAT and took everyone's attention, so this never received much conversation. The car was a RNM and ended up being sold after the BAT auction for reportedly more than the high bid to an Ohioan. The car was listed with a large amount of extra parts which this new owner picked a few parts from but left behind most of the hoard. This hoard was recently offered to my Z car club so I inquired and have a deal to get them on Saturday. It should be most of the items show in the BAT listing, I'll know tomorrow when I do and get the. The seller said they guy did not take much. I'll find out tomorrow.

As mentioned, the ZX is a completely different animal, body wise. Nothing will interchange from the earlier series Z. Add to that most owners of the 280Z don’t care for the look of the 5mph crash bumpers on the 280Z and remove them, sometimes doing the conversion to the smaller, more aesthetically pleasing bumpers from the 240Z. Also mentioned is the offering from Skillard. The ZX does share similar parts, the rear axle half shafts and differential, transmission and engine, and wheels. The ZX versions are updated, and can be used, in some cases requiring a bit of fettling about. I used earlier 280Z halfshafts on my 79 280ZX, bolted right up. 280ZX rear calipers are swapped to earlier Z cars to convert the rear drums to disc brakes. I believe the clutch master and slave cylinders are the same too.

Looking at the race results and race entry sheets I recognize plenty of names, including the J. N. Nerheim listed at the entrant for this car. It used to be owned by another pair of guys, Doug Smith and Herman Whacker, who had two of these, painted identically, numbered 33 and 38. We ran Conference Production, E (not SCCA E production), on DOT radials, and also GT2, for extra track time. I also see that Bob Merrill is listed as the car owner in the Conference logbook. He also had a real GT2 Z, shown in this photo: [url=https://flic.kr/p/SBs2Y3][img]https://live.staticflickr.com/2881/33218995286_8dde01ec03_h.jpg[/img][/url][url=https://flic.kr/p/SBs2Y3]Bob Merrill[/url] by [url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/racers_albums/]Racer[/url], on Flickr (edit: I don’t know why this stupid forum software won’t let me insert images directly inline from my Flickr account. It sucks, as I can never slip them in where I want them, they always go at the bottom.) (The ugly green, blue and orange car in the background is my race Z before I owned it.) Another note, Mr. Nerheim used to race an old Austin Healy in Conference. He drove it to the track, pulling a small utility trailer with a set of race tires, jack and tools, swapped the tires, went racing, then swapped the tires on Sunday afternoon and drove it home. Except the time he wrecked it. Then it went home on a trailer.

You got lucky. I had a similar experience many years ago. I had a 65 Comet, 289, 3 speed. The choke was stuck on one cold winter morning. With the engine running, I removed the wingnut on the air cleaner, and lifted it up. I fumbled the nut and it fell into the carburetor throat. I could see it laying on the throttle plate. I shut the engine off and fetched some tweezers to retrieve the nut. When I was trying to grab the nut I bumped the throttle linkage, and the nut fell into the manifold. Like an idiot I tried to start the engine. It rolled over, the intake valve opened, the nut fell into the cylinder, and when the piston came up it stopped the engine from rotating. The next day I pulled one of the cylinder heads (luckily I guessed the correct one the first try), and there was the nut. New head gasket, new intake manifold gasket, and back in business!

As the 240/260/280z is a s30 and a 280zx is a s130 chassis, very little (bolts and other small things) are the same.. As Chas said: those bumpers are not interchangeable i think as the s130 is wider.. i think..? Also they will not fit into the indentations of the body..

There's a bunch of good parts there! Good luck

This thread is most assuredly a "Squirrel" type of thread as the latest post can call everyones attention. I just though it was a cool full circle post from a year ago.

Coincidence, I just posted this in the wrong thread. Not trying to jump over your post. Good stuff. Here's a neat one. Has some commentary about lime green color and the "Series's". Has an interesting air dam on the front. The youtuber is Dennis Collins and he's looking for a hub cap, apparently. His cars often end up on BAT or at the big auctions. He does big money cars. Says that they're going to try to get it up to number 2 condition car or number 1, whatever that means.

That is part of what drove me to do the Frontier alternator swap on the 260Z. I had a good ZX alternator that I decided to use in the 240Z when I was waking it up last year. That used up my reserve. I learned I could get a new Frontier alternator from Rockauto, so I went that route.

I don't believe it will be an easy swap. I have not heard of anyone doing it. Noyt saying it's not possable, but I doubt it will be an easy modification. Which version of the 280Z did you have in mind. They came with two variants. 1975 to 1976 and 1977 to 1978. The most common bumper swap is the 240Z bumpers on a 280Z. That is a relative easy swap because both the 240Z and the 280Z are both S30 chassis variants. The 280ZX is the S130 chassis

Looks very clean 🙂

The rubber pads are 3x1.75” and 1/4 thick. There are matching indents in the tanks to show you exactly where they go. I do have some pads in the stash that are much thicker at 3/4” but I’m no help at telling you which model they are from. I do have a couple of 4-pad groups taped together that are all the 1/4” thick ones so that is the likely correct set for the 240 and early 280 tanks (75-76) that are the same form factor.

Along with the pads there's rubber strips between the tank and the metal straps that secure the tank. I think these strips and the pads effectively isolates the tank electrically from the body. I think that's why there's 2 wires (240Z) or 3 wires (280Z) for the fuel level sending unit.

I am not sure about the 280z, as I live in the UK where they were not officially imported, but If your query relates to a 240Z, or 260Z, there were hard rubber pads on the upper face of the tank that acted as a cushion to the body. I found some pictures of a later model tank, but the fundaments are the same with the early tanks. On my RHD fiche, for whatever reason, it does indicate a part number for the two pads at the top part (image DSC02889, below) of the early tank (up to August 1974), which is 17231-E4100, but not the lower two (image DSC02891, below), although they may be the same part number. I can scan and upload the fiche if that helps. The attached images probably best illustrate the pads, and their locations on the tank.

Wrong thread...