Leaderboard
-
CW240Z72
Free Member10Points229Posts -
HS30-H
Free Member5Points5,421Posts -
MH77280Z
Free Member2Points467Posts -
siteunseen
Free Member2Points14,913Posts
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/22/2022 in all areas
-
Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432
3 pointsI just want to take a moment to quote this post, and say that the document - marked 'Secret', no less - which Kats obtained and showed us here some years ago, seems somewhat underappreciated. I think it is dynamite. Probably the single most telling piece of official documentation relating to the genesis of these cars I have ever seen. It is, in my opinion, something of a Rosetta Stone... It has it all. Dated 25th June 1969, and with a big 'Hi' stamp (for 'Himitsu'/Secret), it is titled ''270 Kei-sha C/# Dakoku Yōshiki', and it gives us the type designation, purpose, company department destination and actual identity of the first fourteen cars in the project to be given full chassis numbers. First of all, there's no 'Datsun 240Z', 'Fairlady Z', 'Fairlady Z432' etc etc here yet. We know that the project was nicknamed 'Maru Z' (Z in a circle cipher) and was given the internal project number '270 K.K.' ('270 Kaihatsu Kigou'), a glimpse of the terms being used within Nissan just before production. Personally I always wondered where the '240Z' name came from for the Export cars, as it doesn't seem to make much sense ('2400Z' or '2.4Z' might seem odd to us now, but they are certainly more logical) and I am convinced that the '270KK' project code is what actually inspired it. The '240Z' name was a late assignation, after 'Fairlady Z' was rejected for the Export cars. I think the '270' code inspired '240Z' when a name was required at short notice. Secondly, it shows us that - quite logically - 'S30-00001' was the first '270' project chassis to be given a full series identity. 'S30' was the designated series number and the S30-prefixed models of Fairlady Z and Fairlady Z-L were key parts of the family tree. This was how Nissan structured the variants of other models too; a good example would be the C10-series Skyline, where C10 was the series and C10-prefixed models were the building blocks for the structure of other variants in engineering and documentation. Thirdly, and I think this is particularly interesting, the second car to be given a number is described as being an 'HL270' variant. Naturally, with LHD exports being a key part of the whole project, we would expect this to be a North American market type variant. However, that does not seem to be the case. That 'HL270' designation would appear to show it as being a general export LHD variant. So 'HLS30-00001' looks to have been what we might call a 'Euro' LHD type variant. The third car is a 'P270' variant - the 'P' indicating the S20 twin cam engine - and it was given chassis number 'PS30-00001'. Fourth car, first of the 'Ichiji Seishi' cars and destined to be a 'Soko test' car, has an 'HL270U' designation. That 'U' suffix would - according to Nissan's usual habit - indicate a North American market type variant when applied to an 'HLS30' prefixed chassis number. This was 'HLS30-00002'. We then get 'S30-00002', given the designation '270C' (or is that '270L'?). Certainly there's a distinction between this car's designation and the designation of 'S30-00001'. I'm guessing that one is a Z-L (Deluxe) and one is a Z-S (Standard)? That fits with Nissan's modus operandi too. Or does it possibly indicate a factory AirCon car...? Seventh car to be given a number, and the 4th 'Seisan Shisaku' car, is an 'H270U' designated variant. That would mean RHD Export type, and it was 'HS30-00001'. Another 'Soko test' car. So there they are. The first fourteen numbered cars. We are extremely privileged to see a key internal planning document of this type (thank you Kats) and I would say it deserves a thread of its own, and a little more recognition.3 points
-
Name Those Springs
2 pointsFinished disassembling the rear suspension as far as I need to go with it. For anyone pulling the axles, the shop manual shows using a slide hammer, tried it with a big one - the axles laughed at that attempt. Put them on a press... and they came right out.2 points
-
Parts powdered 77 280z
2 pointsJust got some parts back today, blasted and powdered. I think the yellow came out pretty nice. I am planning to powder the hood, front fenders and bumper cover/spaces same color as well. Rest cannot come off so I am asking the shop to just give me the paint code 😀 Next item would be to take out the suspension and powder it all gloss black...thought to share...2 points
-
77 280z Restoration
2 points
-
77 280z Restoration
2 pointsYour timing is perfect! I was going to order a replacement OEM insulator tonight. On a work trip right now and wanted all my parts ordered so I can get this started next week. PM me and I’ll be happy to buy it from you. After much thought and advice from a reputable member of the forum. I’m going to go with a partial restoration of the back suspension, not a full tear down. I don’t want to open too many can of worms that I will have difficulty pulling myself out of. I’m a one man band, average to below average mechanics and don’t have Gucci tools like Captain Obvious. Mustache bar bushings and control arm bushings might be beyond my tool inventory and skill level. I don’t want to have another 6 week setback. Plan is it clean things up, replace anything that looks bad and get the 3.9 diff in as well my Ebauch spring an shocks. I’m too close to being on the road to get a big setback. OBTW, found a new windshield and ordered it. Got a great deal and it doesn’t have the blue band on the top!! The much sought after Fuyao brand That was a tough find. If anyone needs help I can steer you in the right direction as there are a few out there still. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk2 points
-
Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432
1 pointSecond resistor was sited up on the firewall, kind of hiding behind the washer bottle. If your car is missing it then I presume it was part of the switch to aftermarket CDI system over the factory (Mitsubishi) igniter unit? Here's a scan of the same section of the schematic from the 1969 factory manual, which should be more appropriate for your early 1970 car. Pin #1 on the CDI Igniter is different:1 point
-
Painting rear tail light housing (77 280z)
Here's the best one to me. I used it and it looks great. Post #11 from @CanTechZ I'm not sure if it's the same for 280s though. Maybe someone will tell us?1 point
-
Contents of SU Rebuild Kit
1 pointThanks Mark but unfortunately I can't take credit for that trick. I took the easiest route and put an extra rear lid I had and put it up front. @madkaw is the engineer that redrilled the ears. Mine are basically 3 screw 4 screws now.1 point
-
Contents of SU Rebuild Kit
1 point@siteunseen redrilled the float pivot tangs on one of his 3 screw carbs so he could use identical needle valves like the 4 screw carbs.1 point
-
Contents of SU Rebuild Kit
1 pointYes. The change to the different length float valves coincided with the introduction of the 3-screw round tops. In other words... The earlier (70-71) four screw round tops used the same float valve in both carbs. The later (72) three screw round tops used different lengths between front and rear.1 point
-
77 280z Restoration
1 point1 point
- Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z
And there she goes to a new home, I'll still get to see it few times each summer which is good but I don't mind telling you I shed a little tear as she left.1 point- Contents of SU Rebuild Kit
1 pointI thought this was a change and the early carbs had the same needle valves front and rear. Don't know if the change was implemented at the same time the carbs went from 4 to 3 screw. Of course I may be up in the night. 🤪1 point- Parts needed early 5 speed
1 pointIn the S30-series, basically everywhere except North America. However, North America got a version of that transmission for a short period in the SR311/SRL311 Roadster. That's why the Roadster specialists are usually a good source for spare parts.1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 pointBeen working on the videos for this Z recently. Here's the in-car driving video for anyone that's interested.1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 pointOne of the last details for the front end, replicating the factory paint markings. Last will be the tie rods once we get an alignment.1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 pointSome of the last details getting wrapped up. AC system charged up and working nicely. Also working on getting the rest of the stickers installed and a window sticker made up for the car.1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 point1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 pointGot the Z back from the exhaust shop last week. Guys did a great job on the system, very happy with the final results. With that complete, I was able to dial in the carbs and get a few miles on the Z as we complete the shake down process. Being 50 years old I am amazed how tight and smooth this Z is cruising down the road. Much nicer of a ride than my "survivor" '72.1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 pointSome of the final details completed. Original hubcaps were cleaned up and painted. For being used on the Z for so long it’s amazing how clean they were. Dash area is just about wrapped up with only a few minor items left.1 point- Restoration of HLS30-12070
1 pointBeen working on the little details and getting very close to completion for the build. Drove the car around the neighborhood a little today. Once I get the back half of the exhaust made up and installed, I can dial in the carbs and rack up some more miles on the break in.1 point - Thinking about installing an BMW M6 engine in my Z
Important Information
By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.