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I put a set of the Classic Tube OE steel lines (minus the fuel vent line - I reused my OE one) in my 5/71 about a year ago. Overall, I'm happy with the kit but several of the lines needed some adjustment to fit correctly. They weren't exact matches to the originals, but it's hard to say whether my originals hadn't been "adjusted" by a PO. In particular, the clutch master cylinder line was way different from my original, and the several of the bends in the firewall area needed to be adjusted to match the insulators and the spacing/angles of the other lines in the 3-gang and 4-gang insulators. The OE steel lines are easy to rework as needed - I adjusted mine by hand, and they came out good enough for me. Still on the fence about investing in the tooling to rework the bend on the top line on the driver-side firewall so it's a bit smoother. On a related note, if you decide to replace the insulators and brackets, the set I used is from Zcar Depot. It's ok, but the set I received had a few shortcomings to be aware of. The fuel return line hole in the tranny tunnel insulators is way too big for the small OE fuel return line. The 3D-printed blocks are stiffer, so they will require more effort to install, and are visually different than the OE rubber for those who care. Also, the kit came with an incorrect "short" bracket for the fuel vent line (the long single-line bracket on the driver-side firewall), so I cleaned and reused my OE clamp. The urethane block for that clamp is sized for the smaller diameter brake line, not the larger diameter vent line, so I reamed out the block as best I could. I'm not building a 100-point car, and it was quite a bit cheaper than the same set from 240zrubberparts.com, but that set looks like it avoids all the shortcomings of this one. If I had to do it again, I'd apologize to my wallet and go with 240zrubberparts.com.

Nissan did a disservice to all of the S30's by running high amperage current for the headlights/taillights and turnsignals thru the fuse block and then on to the respective switches. As the contacts in the switches became burned, resistance increased and backed up to fuse block resulting in damaged fuse contacts and melted wires. The recommendations above to use lower amperage bulbs and get all the damaged wiring repaired are spot on. And yes... you don't just want to plug in a new fuse block without cleaning up the issues. With all that said and done, you'll still be running the primary current thru the fuse block and switches - just less of it. I strongly recommend you invest in Dave Irwin's excellent relay kits for the headlights and turnsignals. Feeding the clean power directly from the battery to the lights will make a huge improvement in lighting quality and remove these high amperage current flows from your dash area. Just my $0.02 worth - if that much! https://www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net/

You may also have to remove the grill to get at those 3 bolts holding the hinge mount to the body, a second person is a real help with this adjustment, have them push the left side down even if it goes down father than you want it to, don't worry it will spring back up once those 3 bolts are tightened.

Loosen the bolts in the left hood hinge. Remove the light or turn signal. Push the hood down and then tighten the hinge bolts while holding the hood down. See if that helps

I would suggest for you to pull your dash harness, unwrap and inspect every terminal and wire and repair or replace as needed. Those white/ red power wires get very hot and under the outer dash harness plastic/ tape covering, they can melt insulation on smaller wires and cause them to contact each other whilst uninsulated. It is not hard, it just takes not a small chunk of time to unwind or meticulously cut the outer dash harness. I use zip ties to keep it all together after and avoid an outer covering to easily identify any issues which may further transpire.

Today i had my Datsun-Mate Dan over for a visit and as usual we exchanged a few documents and things that we've collected for each other over the last few months. today i got some nice things from him: First of all a few early swiss Datsun pricelists, including the ones which were missing in my collection. Like one of the very first ones from 1968! Now i'm finally ble to put the complete series of pricelists from 1968 to 1979 online! Then i've got a bit of a curiosity: a Datsun branded Padlock. I first thought it was a random engraved lock like you can buy it at many places, but Dan said he had a second set which looks exactly the same, and what is also interesting is that the "Datsun" name is not only engraved in the Lock itself (easy to make), but also cast into the keys, which makes it more likely something either officially sold by Nissan / Datsun or something from a local marketing campaingn or at least something from a big 3rd party supplier. Nice to have anyway 🙂 Last but not least he once ordered a set of Air intake box repro-stickers and was kind enough to order a set for me too. The biggest sticker doesn't belong to our european 240Z's, so i'll only need the other ones. still good to have, as my original ones are looking bad.

Purple power will do that to aluminum. You should be able to glass bead blast it, or possibly scotch brite it to remove the oxidation... and still use your old one.

Good idea, thanks man

Yeah thats what i used! Didn't know the name.. Yeah thats the name.. a flairing tool, one needs one that has a good grip on the line to make the flair right!

First, thank you for posting the photo. It does take some guesswork out of trying to figure out what's wrong with your car. Now in response to your post, okay, you're wrong. 😉 Flasher is for the turn signals. The brakes and hazards are on the same fuse. There has been a lot of carnage in that electrical system. The black/white wire feeding the turn signals has melted off most of the insulation. I'm surprised you were getting turn signals. The fuse for the running lights/gauge lights has experienced the very common meltdown. It looks like the wire going to the contact was cut off, so I would be curious where the IPO (idiot previous owner) was getting the power for that circuit. I also see damage on the wire for the horn circuit, but that was probably from when the running light fuse melted down. Definitely perform a careful inspection/cleaning of the light sockets for the side markers, front marker/turn signals, and the rear marker/turn signals/brakes. I should have taken a photo of one of the side markers I took off my 240Z a few months back. It was rusted beyond reasonable repair, so I replaced it with a cheap replica I purchased from ebay. If there isn't much corrosion, Spray the socket with Caig Deoxit and use a small wire cup brush on a Dremel to clean off the corrosion. In a pinch, you can also soak the socket in Tarn-X instead of Deoxit, but I would rinse with denatured alcohol to get rid of as much Tarn-X as possible. Also, don't run power through anything treated with denatured alcohol until you are very sure it has all evaporated. Using LED bulbs for the side markers, turn signals, and brake lights will also drop the thermal stress on the wiring and switches. I also like LED headlights to take the load off the switch. You can get decent H4 housings (I like Hella) and H4 headlight bulbs for about $140 from Amazon. Let me know if you want more details. I noticed that you put a pin on the member map that you're in Georgia. @gogriz91 and I know many people in the Atlanta area for parts/work on Z cars if you're ever up this way.

You might want to get Steve's help with some preventive diagnostics before you plug in you new high dollar fuse box. They really shouldn't melt like that...

http://fedhillusa.com/ Cunifer, copper nickel alloy and they are really nice to deal with. A little scotch brite to clean the lines up nice. A nice brake line flaring tool is expensive but a joy to use. There was a recent thread about a less expensive tool that worked good too