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I was emailing someone at klassicfab and he said everything is 20% off today. Use this coupon code: KFBLACKFRIDAY ‘72 240z Kilimanjaro white vin 473XX

First, these are two COMPLETELY independent circuits. Headlights first. The readings you give are inconsistent. Are you measuring voltage to ground when measuring at the fuse box? If they are essentially 0 volts to ground there, you wouldn't have voltage at the headlight connector, provided you have the dash harness to engine harness connectors correct. Since they are color coded, I would expect they are hooked up properly. There is only one voltage source going to the passenger headlight socket. The other two wires go back to the combination switch which will ground one circuit (high beam or low beam) or the other. If the headlight switch is on when the circuit is not grounded, you could see voltage at all three points on the connector if the other side headlight is plugged in. Here's how the circuit flows: The white/red wire goes to the right hand switch. When the switch is on, there should be voltage on the red wire. The red wire goes to the fuse box and splits between the left and right headlight fuses. The right side fuse comes out as a red wire. The left side fuse comes out as a red/yellow wire. The wires go to the connector for the dash harness to engine harness and out to their respective headlights. With the headlight plugged in, the wiring path goes back through the red/black (low) and red/white (high) wires The red/black and red/white go through the engine harness to the dash harness and back to the left switch. The left switch will connect one of those two wires to ground. One of the first things to do is make sure you connected the ground wire at the steering column. A loose or missing ground will make your voltage reading wonky. The high beam indicator on the gauge goes from the right headlight fuse to the gauge and out as a red/white wire that joins up to the red/white wire that came back from the headlights. For the turn signals, if there is not enough current flowing through the old flasher relay, the light(s) connected on that circuit will tend to stay on. You'll see this if there LED bulbs with the old style flasher relay. The old flasher relays would heat up with enough current flow. This would cause the bimetal strip in the relay to bend away from the circuit. This would cause the lights to go off. Once the current stops flowing through the bimetal strip, it cools, and the strip goes back into place, completing the circuit again.

Happy Thanksgiving back to you! Hope everyone reading this has a great day and enjoys time with family and friends. @dutchzcarguy I think the holiday is more about being thankful and yes, today is the US holiday. Although it's based on American history, other countries have similar days for giving thanks.

Thanks for posting this, you just saved me $200 on the parts I have been thinking about buying. This sale made my decision much easier. Cheers, Mike

We are living in a crazy world. I don’t understand it and the only thing I can think of is people are coming to the realization that their money is losing value so fast they want to move it into any asset as soon as possible. 6.2% inflation un October which is the highest in 30 years and that’s after removing energy from the CPI. That clouds the real inflation figures because crude oil is up 65% and Natural Gas 112% in 2021. We are living in truly unprecedented times and it is reflected in the price of used and particularly classic cars. That Z is not worth 11k on any universe except this crazy one we live in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I appologise for not fully comprehending your post, but I will give you my take on what you can do. I had my P79 shaved 0.050" and I did not shim the towers or change the valves. I slotted the chain guide holes to get the chain path correct and then I drilled the stock cam gear and used eccentric spacers per the "How To Modify..." book. With a degree wheel, I was able to dial the timing in to the cam card specs. The engine ran great and was endurance raced. The spacers were less than $10 from Summit Racing and the other mods were free. I started with a new quality Cloyes timing chain kit. EDIT: One thing I added was a plug spacer that fit between the cam dowel/eccentric washer and the cam retention washer. The eccentric washers are about half as thick as the cam gear hole, so the washer could walk off the end of the cam dowel. The plug keeps the eccentric washer in place. You can just see it in the last picture.

I discovered this place quite a while ago and have shared it in the past. Has an amazing array of tidbits for just this type of construction. I’ve bought tons of the 8mm x M5 ball ends and various linkage parts to build carb and throttle cable goodies. They also have larger spherical rod ends to build bigger things. Midwestcontrolproducts.com https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/DMCBH-5 https://midwestcontrol.com/shop/products/ball-studs?tierTwo=Threaded&tierThree=M5 x 0.80 RH

Site and Ferg, The valve timing position hole on the upper cam gear has no effect on chain tightness. It's a "relative rotation" change only, not a "distance between two gears" change. In other words, moving which cam timing hole you're using will not change the chain tightener position at all. If your cam tightener is sticking out too far, moving to a different timing hole won't do anything at all to change that.

Despite the rough last year and a half or almost two now we have all been through, we can always give thanks to the LORD for HE is good even when we are not or when circumstances are not the best. Happy Thanksgiving from ONEWAY-John-Lugoff, SC.

In Japan they go out and get Kentucky Fried Chicken to celebrate American Thanksgiving. A wonderful people with perhaps the most excellent way to meld American culture into their own. Happy Thanksgiving to those who celebrate it. It's just an excuse for us to eat and complain about our families haha.

Yes, Happy Thanksgiving to all. I’m full and headed out to the shop to work on the 240….. ‘72 240z Kilimanjaro white vin 473XX

Finally made it back to the shop today to clean up and catalog all the parts I got with the car. Then looked around the car a little more and it looks like the engine is a reman from ATK. Still has the tags on it. I inspected the body a little more and it looks like there is some filler on the rockers but not a lot. All in all the body is solid. I then started the car and the first time it started up just fine... however, the second time it started and shut back off. I restarted it and it was running really rough, like a bad misfire on a couple cylinders. I didn't have time left in the day to start diagnosing it but I took a look around and noticed oil around the spark plug on cylinder 6. I removed the plug, which was very loose, and could see evidence of oil on the threads and around the spark plug well. I suspect there is a valve stuck open or not fully seating or worse, the piston rings are shot or seized up. Any suggestions? The car ran beautifully last week when I put it in the garage.

You could put these on a Winnebago and fit in the golf cart space. https://www.amazon.com/Camera-Backup-Cameras-Trailer-Mounting/dp/B08T1XHYNN/ref=asc_df_B08T1XHYNN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=508404639493&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16204837142968101279&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1015254&hvtargid=pla-1216375717113&psc=1

I have Fel pro on my 280. They were in the rebuild gasket kit at a local chain store. Working fine since 2011. Nissan on my 240, also great since 2016.

That is a nice system you have John. I don't think there is any true bolt in system. They all need tweeking somewhere. I have an abart system and it will need some mods to connect to the down pipe.

For what?

Sorry, somehow the video dropped off the thread. Here it is again. Just put the propeller shaft back on and about to fill the transmission. She might move on her on power vs my back today. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well.....Excuuuuuuse me.