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Hello i am just back from the AACA Eastern Fall Meet at Hershey, PA. I entered my Z in the Historical Preservation Original Features class. In that class you are judged against a standard of originality. Anything restored or incorrect aftermarket gets a deduction. Used, NOS and OEM replacement parts are allowed. Owners are asked to disclose anything they know has been restored or modified. You are allowed up to seven deductions. Under that and you qualify for a HPOF award. My car is pretty much original but has had two minor body repairs/paint and the fuel line in not totally correct (correct routing but a new piece near the filter has been replaced using a Union. Not sure what the judges found (they do not tell you on the field.) I did not attend the awards ceremony that evening but I heard My car did get an HPOF award. it was a huge event…at least 500 cars on the showfield. From what I could see, Mine was the only Z, so it got lots of attention. Jim

You may also want to change the oil. When mechanical fuel pump diaphragms fail the fuel can get passed the broken diaphragm and go into the crankcase.

I think I understand the benefits and the desire to run either an electric fuel pump with or without a mechanical pump. In your original post you mention that you don't run your 240z frequently and that you thought the diaphragm may have dried up and caused the pump to fail or not perform as it should. Sorry if this is off topic. During the restore of our car there have been long periods where the car has not been started. I am running a mechanical pump without the benefit of an electric. I have a fuel filter before the pump. I too was having issues starting after the car sat for a while. After sitting for a period of time the fuel filter bowl was always empty. At first I did not think much of this, but that changed with time and effort. Since the car is in the process of being restored most of its parts are new or restored. New fuel pump, new hoses and clamps, restored fuel tank, restored SUs, restored plumbing from the pump to the SUs., ... etc. I read that many of the cardone fuel pumps had issues so I purchased another pump, but it too was not able to suck fuel from the tank. I got to be an expert at filling fuel bowls by hand, to get the car started. I was thinking that my fuel pump was not strong enough to pull the fuel the distance from the tank while it was cranking and that it was taking too long to crank the car to fill all the lines and the fuel bowls. A friend suggested that there was an air leak that was causing the system to lose its vacuum, and that the tell tale was the fuel filter bowl being empty after the car sat for a while. He talked me into checking to make sure that the right size (diameter) hoses were everywhere. Sure enough I did have some that were a bit larger than they were originally. While I never really proved that the diameter of the hoses and clamps was the issue, the fuel filter bowl now is able to stay full even after the car sits for months. I believe if I checked the fuel pump that there would be fuel in the pump keeping the diaphragm wet. Anyway, I was considering going to an electric pump but forgot about it after my issue was resolved. Don't get me wrong electric fuel pumps are great, a little noisy sometimes, but pushing fuel at a constant rate is beneficial. Really like Racer X's and Steve J's safety solution.

A 78 oil pressure sender can be adapted for this: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=488596&cc=1209260&pt=4588&jsn=830 You can get the female T connector from Vintage connections and wire the gauge connection to a female bullet to connect to the engine harness. According to the 78 wiring diagram, the horizontal pin is for the gauge, and the vertical pin would be your switch. You can also install an inertia switch like this and put it under the dash. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RBK4873 The trick with the one in the link is that you need to swap one of the wires from the normally open to the normally closed position. I helped a friend install one of these in his track car, and he has not experienced accidental activation of the inertia switch.

It is easier to use a spot-weld cutter than a drill. And the cutter doesn't leave a hole in both pieces, only the part on top. This makes welding the part back on easier.

CO was kind enough to send me a trial set of "bloats" to test on my Z. I have a 2.8L engine rebuilt with flat top pistons, standard cam, N42 head and block, 6 in 1 header, short ear fuel bowl lids on both front and back SUs, etc. I have some experience playing around with SUs and Webers, so this was fun for me! My standard floats weigh around .4 oz, and CO sent me a set weighing .7 oz. My initial efforts to get the fuel level set, using my set of FloatSyncs, proved to be most difficult, and after multiple failed attempts, went back to CO to discuss options. He thought going to a lower add on weight might prove to be a solution. So, he redrilled the "bloats", took out the heavier weight, and added a lighter aluminum plug. The weight of the mini "bloats" was .5 oz (25% more than my standard float). This proved to be a much better solution, as I was able to quickly dial in the appropriate fuel levels in each carb, while having the tabs of each mini "bloat" set at a level where I don't have to worry about the float hitting the side of the fuel bowl to reach a full level. I will leave it to the industrious Captain Obvious on how he created the mini "bloats", but I believe it is a great solution for those with a similar problem!! Thanks, Bruce! Now, on to finding the perfect SU needle for my Z ...

And to add insult to injury they put a bowtie on the rear end. 😞

Correct, not sure what the question is or you just wanted to let us know but here is more information

If you trust it enough for a 3 hour drive up this, I can help you with installing an electric fuel pump, Cliff. I have a lift and all of the tools to do the job right. Heck, you could bring the dog, too. The wife and I like 4 legged guests. Our old girl might ignore your dog, though. She's pretty much to the resting most of the day stage in her life.

I should have one, I'll check the hoard this afternoon.

Thank you Racer! It needs changing too. I'd forgotten how much that car means to me, all the time and money to get it where it's at now. Then I was scared to drive it with these idiots around here. So it sat under cover for 5 years, only driven about 1,000 miles. I can't stand it when something doesn't work so I took the chicken $^!# route and drove across town and bought another $35 mechanical pump. Started right up! I've got to my affairs in better shape before I do the switch to electricity. End of the year, property taxes, homeowners ins. then Christmas presents. I will drive it more now for sure. I've got a great Hagerty's policy on both of them. It's like a kid I guess, can't keep them inside forever. Thanks for the replies. I know what to do now. Cliff

"Ran great when parked over 35 years ago." https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/london/1971-datsun-240z-number-matching/1589333102

I googled "datsun 240Z slave cylinder" to check what was availabe. The first hit was a shocker from a webshop for Z parts. The parts are a mix match of the early and later types. Here they show a later type slave cylinder without the spring anchor point (red circle) and the non adjustable push rod (blue circle). Then they simple supply a spring (green circle) and describe is as early OEM nos parts. Early looks like this: Later type looks like:

I considered the Ford inertia switch, but never implemented it. Good idea though, especially if running fuel injection, given the higher pressure and flow rate.

I use an oil pressure switch to operate a relay on the race Z. If the engine is shut off, the fuel pumps stop. The fuel pumps get power when the key is in the cranking position, then continue running once the engine fires up and oil pressure is present.

My race Z has not had a mechanical fuel pump since I bought it in 1989. That was the first thing to go way back when. The only trouble I have ever had was when one pump (the car has a fuel cell with two sumps and two pumps, not something needed for street driving) died during a race. The engine ran lean while cornering and detonation caused the crankshaft to break. So go for it Cliff. Ditch the mechanical pump and all the troubles they have.

It is possible to have both electric and mechanical fuel pumps on a 240Z. There is even wiring already in place for the electric pump in the rear near the fuel pick up/sending unit. My 240Z had both when I bought it. I'm making several updates to things and replacing many old items including the electric fuel pump (the one that was there was not wired using the stock wiring and what was run was attached with a twist and some electrical tape...can you say fire hazard!). To select your electric fuel pump there are some threads on here that discuss different pumps...the largest complaint seems to be that some are loud. To help with the noise, no matter what one you get, use rubber isolators when mounting. 😉

It's custom time! Make a block of wood that fits around it in 2 halfs.. get some sheet steel and... a hammer!! 😉

A custom stitched leather dashboard. And a Signal Stat turn signal switch used on medium and heavy trucks. They didn't even get the chrome one.

Might as well just buy a Vette, I'm all for modifying but I would never pretend I could design a better looking exterior. It's like Ketchup on Filet Mignon.

I had not seen that thread until now. I'm going to have to start drinking heavily to get those images out of my mind!

Whoa!, I think that belongs in this thread,

Well you're not a D as far as I've seen. The filter fits between the tank and the high pressure EFI pump where there's nothing but drain from the tank. They're good BEFORE the high pressure pump.