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Everything posted by qz16

  1. Scott, Thanks, yes, i did get a vintage dash. if memory serves me it was $1k or $1100. It is great. Not a scratch on it. Fit and finish was perfect. Everything lined up perfectly. i don't know what they cost now, but it was worth every penny. Highly recommend. Good luck with your 72 Z.
  2. this message is for HappyZ: I have tried to responded to PM, but outlook is claiming that your server is not accepting emails from outlook's server. regards, ron
  3. ET14k - thanks - I'm still in the denial phase where I am hoping without reason that there is someway to prevent the scratch. zkars - like I dont have enough anxiety in my life - right? Having said that - I have thought about the drip rail and the fear of taking a rubber mallet to my paint caused me to work on other parts of the project until I uncovered a solution to the cracking paint syndrome. I thought I was in safe territory until I realized that I had to install the rubber window roller which is pinched on to the same door edge and then I figured out that heaven has given me two c
  4. I know here I go again - worrying about chipping paint. I am in the process of putting a door back on our project. The door is mounted and I just finished installing the window regulator and glass. Across the top of the door there is a piece of molding, chrome on one side fuzzy on the side facing the glass. It is press fitted onto the door edge. Is there some method of protecting the paint while installing the molding? Would applying tape to the edge before fitting the molding over it help? Is there a special tool to spread the molding while applying it to the door? Thanks in adva
  5. So, I really do not have a horse in this race, and I am on thin ice because I am not trained as a mechanical engineer. To re-state the original issue I was concerned about the bare metal lying between the mounting holes pressing into the painted surface and damaging it, thus potentially allowing water to create an issue. It seems to me that this mini system (the handle, bracket, backing plate, pivots and springs ... etc) is strengthened because the bracket, AND its backing plate behind the door skin sandwich the door skin. My backyard logic would suggest that all the forces involved wi
  6. I’m not the most experienced painter, so take that into account when you read this. I am restoring a 1973 240z, changing colors so everything needed to be painted. One thing that I learned is that I am not capable of defining where rust is or is not. I wound up removing undercoating from places that I would have bet would not have rust only to reveal issues that I might have inadvertently covered up if I had not taken the time to remove the original 43 year old covering. I also learned that I could not get away with covering something unless it was completely free of dirt, oil etc. In my
  7. nice to know that I am not the only over-protective wrench in the group. When I removed the door handles I noticed that the bracket had rust on it. There's nothing to prevent it and if it lays on the paint and scratches or chips it could be the perfect opportunity to create a real nightmare. I like putting the rubber over the entire surface of the bracket, drilling holes in the rubber for the studs as that well fill the holes as well. Once again, thanks for responding.
  8. I am in the midst of re-assembly of the bucket a 1973 240z. I just mounted a door and started cleaning up parts to be installed on/in it. Here is a picture of the backside of the exterior door handle. There are 2 square rubber seals that are mounted to the handle to prevent water from entering the interior of the door. I would rate mine at about a 6 out of 10. I think I may have found a place to get some but I am not sure that I want to go to the effort of taking the handle mechanism apart to install them. Any tip/experience would be appreciated. Also, as you are aware the
  9. regarding the black mesh - I had used some sound deadner and removed it and that is just residue.
  10. mepiazza, regarding the hoses. I purchased them from vintage air. Yes they do mount reasonably well on the oval. The ovals have a raised piece of plastic, just a nub, that catches one or more of the steel re-enforcements in the hose. At the vent end it also mates well. I dont recall how it exactly is fastened but it is fairly obvious once you actually start to work with it.
  11. mepiazza, just looked through the thread again and found one of the images that shows the hole that I am speaking about. At the top of the above image is a rectangular silver piece of metal with two for the 4 screws that hold it visible. This covers the hole below the cowl. regards, ron
  12. mepiazza, I think you may be confused. The cowl vent that I am speaking about is not part of the vintage air system. It is the hole for the original 240z system. Fresh air entered the heater/defrost system via the cowl. There is a plate /panel between the hood and the windshield. It cover the windshield wiper motor and arms. Air entered the original heater/defrost system via a square/rectangular hole located on the passenger side. It should be visible if you have your dash out. If you dont seal off this hole - air, leaves debris, rain can enter the cabin. My dash is now installed
  13. Thank you Steve, CanTech Z, and Jim. regards, ron
  14. Can someone confirm which relay is used for the accessories on a 1973 240z. The wiring diagram that I have been using shows 3 blue wires. The 73 service manual shows the accessory relay harness as a 3 pin harness with 3 blue wires. One of my relays has 3 wires, it is of course bad. Its part number is 25230 89914. Internet search indicates that this is for the intermittent wipers. I have upgraded my wipers and no longer use the original relay. I have a relay available that I believe is part number 25230 89924. I think this is a headlight relay. I probably could use this in place of th
  15. Patcon - As you know 3mm screws are fairly small. Just wanted to let you know that you were right. I could not locate wide enough pan head screws with a phillips head. But screwing a lot of small screws with an allen head wrench, sometimes in the blind, sometimes upside down is not a lot of fun. And the mere thought of doing it more than once drove me to use pan head phillips, still with a washer. Much easier to locate a hole with a magnetic tip phillips screwdriver and fiddle with an allen head. Thanks.
  16. Replacement of the Inner and outer Shift boot When I bought the bucket it did not have an inner or an outer shift boot. Replacing the inner shift boot is fairly obvious. There is a rectangular ring that surrounds the boot and holds it in place. The outer boot is soft vinyl, or leather and it slips over the gear stick. Mistake 1: I installed the center console after completing work on the center console area and everything that is involved with that like the vinyl over the trans. tunnel, choke control, fuse box lid, indicators, radio etc. It turns out to install the outer shif
  17. Patcon - Great question. I am using a button head screw, with an allen head that has a black oxide finish. Above right to left is a 4mm button head, and a 3mm button head I thought the button head with an allen head would be the least conspicuous. As you can see the 3mm screw is quite small. A phillips head would be easier to install/remove, but I thought it would be more noticeable. Unfortunately the 3mm head is too small for the hole in the plastic panel so I am also using a flat washer with a black oxide finish. I would be very interested if you have any other su
  18. I am in the process of installing the bucket’s interior. Often times I find that parts need to installed, removed, adjusted/repaired and then re-installed. A while back I bought plastic rivets for interior. Two sizes are required. The taillight panel requires 8. I believe they are $3.00 each. The interior plastic requires approximately 40. These are larger and come in bags of 10 at approximately $7.00 a bag. I don’t think that they are available at your local hardware store so there is shipping cost and worst of all for me time delay. So, the cost of these plastic rivets is annoyingly
  19. Report post ID: #8 Posted 16 minutes ago (edited) Was this tough to install? Not at all. You will want to clean up the metal handle to your satisfaction. Having done that, It merely slides over the original metal and you tighten a set screw (which you can actually see in the picture, at the base of the handle - mid-image).
  20. My handle crumbled in my hand as I was installing it after repairing the mechanism. I looked high and low and could not find just the plastic handle. For me buying an entire original mechanism did not seem wise as there is no way to judge how long it would last. ABS appears to have a useful life, but I fear we are getting to the point where we are testing the limit. I found the one in the image below, but I forget where I got it. The brand is NRG. I like the way it looks but if you are a purist it will not do.
  21. preface: I am working on the restoration of a 73 240z. A mentor of mine used to say “The enemy of good is better”. I adopted this saying but often times I unfortunately ignore it. Our car “the bucket” has what I believe is its original center console. It has a single slot on the driver’s side for the choke control. At some time in the past the original choke control arm and bracket were replaced with a generic pull out handle and cable mounted where the cigarette lighter would normally be located. It worked well enough with the previous owner’s conversion to a Holey 4 barrel.
  22. sheen, Thanks. You must be correct. I have seen trans switches for z cars that have spade connectors. These must be neutral switches. you have far more experience with zcars than I. I thought most manuals have a contact switch for the clutch, to prevent starting unless the clutch is depressed, but who knew that datsun would be so advanced back in 73. I also read that not all 4 speeds had neutral switches, and as far as i know the 5 speeds did not. As you know the bucket is a 73 with an L28 and a 5 speed so questions about stock are always interesting. thanks, ron
  23. w3wilkes Thanks. I have a '73. Can you help me locate it? Where is the switch and the wires for it? I see that there is a neutral switch on the wiring diagram, but never saw anything physical that i thought might be the actual switch. Thanks in advance for your assistance. regards, ron
  24. I believe that the buzzer and the warning lamp should be extinguished if you close the door AND buckle the driver seat belt, assuming there is no passenger. I do not believe that there is a neutral switch on manual transmissions. Just curious - Is this an automatic transmission? You do not have to reconnect the buzzer to diagnose the problem. The seat belt warning lamp turning off will tell you when the circuit is corrected. First thing that I would check would be both door switches – when the door is closed a plunger mechanically disconnects the lamp and the buz
  25. I am missing the nuts that secure the radio's front facia to the on-off/volume knob and the channel select knob. Does anyone know the size and pitch of these nuts. Thanks in advance for your assistance.
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