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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DATSUN-FAIRLADY-260Z-280Z-PARKING-HAND-BRAKE-CABLE-EMERGENCY-/151459145571 from AK260 above. I ordered this cable from ebay as suggested above to check it for fitment and quality. I am very very impressed. Ordered Jun 23, arrived July 5th. Paid $102.53 CAD shipped and customs fees paid. Design is nearly identical to the OEM cable. Even came with a new pair of pins for the wheel end. @Joseph@TheZStoreI would suggest considering investigating if you can source these cables. Highly recommended them.

great news! it was just a valve adjustment when the engine was hot. IMG_3807.mp4

That connection to the 77 voltage regulator is the "IG" terminal and I don't remember the details of that what that connection does. I converted my 77 over to the 78 style internally regulated system a couple years ago, and as part of that conversion, I purged my brain of the finer details of exactly how the external voltage regulator works. I used to know, but now that I don't need to know anymore... Most of it left. So, having a 78, you don't really need to know either.

The first paragraph will be a little bit of back story. I rebuilt my 260z mechanically this past 2-3 years, paycheck to paycheck, learning from my first project car. I have tried to do a sensible OEM+ type modifications. Last year I drove it 100 miles burned 2.5 qts of oil and decided to rebuild the engine. Fast forward i have redone the engine bay wiring harness while the engine was out. RELOCATED the ignition coil to the other side of the engine bay. i drove the car 50 miles after the rebuild then lifted it back on jack stands to do the suspension bushings and shocks. I also did a bit of wiring upgrades and buttoning up parts in various places. I have a no spark issue. I with the help of others close by have determined my problem to be a distributor problem. I took apart the dang thing and it looks like maybe a wire disordered or maybe even 2 had and these are needle thin wires inside a 280zx non turbo distributor with a black box on the side taking over the roll a points system would do, ECM, electronic control module. i bought a junkyard one that looked nicer than the others but had a non OEM ecm. this part did not solve my problem and test faulty by my method of use a digital multimeter. the 123 Distributor is slightly more expensive and a replacement I could find in descent quality. it will be interesting to see what results I get from this distributor. pic is the dizzy from the car originally, has reman marked on it, also its of 80s tech in a 74 car. the tiny wires I tried to solder them but just didn't work out for me.

Don't go, there's gotta be a work around. I love this build.

My advice based on wasting a lot of money is buy the 123 and have done with it!! My 280zx dizzy works perfectly well for the average engine but as with all 40 something year olds it has wear in the shaft and bushings. I bought new bushings but the shaft is worn, so unless you can lathe it down and ream some bushes to the correct size it will always wobble. The issue with wobble is spark scatter at high revs. But if performance is not the concern then that’s OK for most. Bought a Rockauto reman one for a vast expense once delivered to the UK and it too had the same problem. Then I bought the 123 and at first I was less impressed than I should have been with it. However, over time, it’s REALLY grown on me and I love it. The Beru caps caused issues but the Bosch one has been fine. Here’s my thread on my experiences with it, in case it helps with your thinking ... https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/123-ignition-for-datsun-l6-on-my-l28.25467/

I was thinking of purchasing the MSA headers and getting the stock pipe, run a cat and then just afterwards straight pipe. I love the sound of the MSA headers, my car is mostly a straight pipe with one 50 year old cat in its way. I looked at the eBay copies, but I was skeptical of the functionality and build thank you for the warning and advise. In terms of power I just want to drive the old girl shes been sitting for 9 months so power isn’t much concern, but a bonus is always appreciated :). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Always buy a pretty lady a drink…

I traced a couple more fuses. It's not pretty, but this is just what I have so far. I'm not going to bother making it pretty until it's been checked by other people. This is for 77 and 78 (with differences between the years noted if there are any): Hopefully someone who is bored will check my work?

Ever notice those weird holes at the bottom of the fuse box? : I think there might be an obscure mention of it in one of the FSMs. That said... If you know you're blowing fuses, you might want to carry more than just three spares.

I just checked and the vacuum nipple is capped off. I tightened another vacuum connection (braided hose connected to the vacuum balance tube). I was able to keep the car running by using the fast idle adjustment screw. The engine is missing but I cannot isolate which cylinders are missing because its not missing consistently. I re-balanced the air flow between the carb's because I wanted to do something as long as it was running. I got the fuel pressure down to 3.5 to 3.75 using the pressure regulator. A previous owner removed the fuel rail and disconnected the return line so this is a "dead head" system. I'm going to try and put in a new fuel pressure regulator with a return once I get the car running and the cam shaft issue taken care of.

14 miles on the car! Went to Touge Bash at Stratotech in Fort Sask and won a Top Tier award!

This is the one I used and it’s been great - admittedly with covid I’ve done fewer miles than usual but it gets used nearly daily as I pull the car out of the garage to get to stuff. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DATSUN-FAIRLADY-260Z-280Z-PARKING-HAND-BRAKE-CABLE-EMERGENCY-/151459145571