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The easy way saves you a lot of time and money. The hard / head off way introduces lots of time consuming work and risks!! Hard way: You need to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds - possibly likely to introduce air leaks when you put them back. You’ll need a new head gasket and a new intake / exhaust gasket. I would say you need new head bolts as they stretch and I wouldn’t like to reuse them. There is a potential for threading head or other bolts when you put them back. What if a head bolt snaps on the way out? You then have to take the rest of the engine out to deal with it. It’s easy to mess up your cam timing and potentially have valves kissing a piston and bending / killing your engine. Many other risks I can list but I won’t. The easy way: is simply a case of stuffing some rope into the spark plug hole, turning the engine to TDC on that piston and dealing with valve springs / seals on that one cylinder. You only then have to worry about getting the seal / springs back on properly and make sure you have correct valve clearances.

I think he has the easy way confused with the hard way. Hard way=remove head Easy way= leave head on

I won't even put stickers on my cars for that reason. The Zs are well known around town but that Camry and my D21 pickup are getaway cars.

Few more loose ends to tie up and the Z will be ready for its first fire up.

I do miss my house where I installed multiple 20 amp circuits to feed my basement workshop. I could power my table saw and dust collector at the same time. Here, I only have one 15 amp circuit that likely feeds several other rooms in the house. Once I get power to the new workshop, I might do power strips like that so I can keep all my power tool chargers plugged in.

I actually believe I did and I fixed it now sorta still doesn’t want to stay on, but engine is receiving fuel the, I accidentally disconnected 2 grounds when removing the horns. Cleaned and connected them and its getting fuel now, still doesn’t stay on but thats been the norm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do not think about coincidences, they happen in dreams only. Something you did caused your problem. Is the small wire firm on the starter's solenoid? Pull the fuel hose before the rail and see what kind of amont your geeting. I've never heard of an air/fuel lock problem on Zs but maybe you created one.

I put these in my rental house after I went up on the breaker amps. Work great. Microwave and all kinds of other crap ladies use on the countertops. I think there's 8 per strip. Like a big ole surge protecter from Lowes. $20?

Your cabinets look just like the uppers I put in my garage this weekend. The garage in the house I just bought only has one outlet and I have three workbenches that wrap around four walls. I like what you did with the exposed conduit. I might have to do something very similar. With a slab on grade house, all power is under the house, so grabbing more power from the panel is much harder than I'm used to. I like the drafting table too. I grew up drafting and I still love doing manual drawings.

I've zip tied gauges to the driver's wiper blade and ran my coolant temp tweak inside the cabin to adjust while driving but I'll be damned if I can figure out how you got that gauge to hover like that. Are you some kind of space alien?

Thank you! It’ll be tough, but I hope this one gets to stretch its legs out on the road a good amount.

I think that the shape of the hole(s) are also as important as the sizes. For example, if I theorize way above my pay grade, I would imagine the shape of the distributor advance goes like this... They wanted a very narrow spike of vacuum oat a specific pedal position, so they used a narrow slit. And I can affirm (from driving around with a vacuum gauge T'd into that line) that the vacuum spike is very narrow and very high (vacuum). The EGR ports on the other hand, appear to be placed to provide vacuum over a much broader pedal position. I'm guessing the smaller hole in the back is used to "extend" the EGR vacuum value deeper into the throttle. So my read on the whole thing is... They optimized the ignition advance to kick in only at one narrow pedal position (light cruise), but the EGR is activated over a broader range and deeper into the pedal (medium cruise). But, neither of those ports will produce any significant vacuum once you get above medium cruise.

Definitely - a fire extinguisher was one of the first things I bought when I got the car years ago haha

Long ago, a friend was using an HP calculator. I picked it up and started playing with it. He said, "Careful, if keep that up, you'll never go back to algebraic." He was right. After 15 minutes I went back to my TI and could not operate it! Seriously. Everything was suddenly foreign, like having to push " = ". Still using a 48SX bought in the 90's

Age 10 Major Matt Mason Age 11 - 61

Back in the 70's every car smelled like gas, it was normal. Mmmmm, leaded gas, I miss that smell.

I didn't own a scale when I did the 240 but I weighted the 280 a couple of years ago and the stripped shell was 530lbs so the 240 is probably close to 500lbs. A bare bones L28 engine is 304lbs and with the 5speed attached they weigh in at 435lb.

Got the rear bumper assembled and installed today. The innermost nuts for the rubber bumper strips were a real bear. I installed the bumper end rubber "cushions" also. I don't see them on many early Zs, but they're apparently OEM and still available, so I bought a pair and put them on. I might take them off; they look kind of clunky and to my knowledge, my Z never had them (or they were pulled off / fell off very early in its life). We'll see.

Has the ring around the bottom or top of the seal somehow come loose or slid out of it's seat? I think that cheap compressor would work. Hook the bottom hooks on the lowest ring of the spring and the upper on the retainer. Use a small telescoping magnet to catch the valve retainer clips. I think it could be done with a big socket on the retainer and rubber hammer, magnet to catch the clips. I've read that before. Good luck with it Alex.

Sorry for the late follow-up here. Been working on house projects for the last few months and today is the first time in a while I've been able to devote some time to it. It actually only took me about 15 minutes to fix. Undid the passenger side, centered the bumper, secured the middle and then cinched the ends down, no problem. Thanks for the help guys.