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Hahah that car reminds me of my dad’s yugo. Broke down after 200 miles from the dealer! I consider myself very lucky. I’ve been saving for a while to get one although my dad wanted me to put the money into a new car. Comes at a surprise cause he bought one when he first came to this country (280z 2+2). Where I live these’s Z have become stupidly expensive. No offense to the s30’s but they aren’t worth the money that people are asking for in the condition they are. I know a lot of “clout chasers” (fame seekers) who want these cars because “they are cool.” It’s very typical what they do next: RB swap, wide body, fender mirrors, and etc etc. Not saying these builds aren’t cool (but jealous cause I don’t got daddy’s money) just never felt these guys actually care for the original car. At that point it doesn’t feel like a 240z to me anymore. I don’t know! Just my two cents.

I am more than willing to lose the Hp to run AC

Clutch kits aren't that pricing and it's worth the peace of mind - I can't imagine putting everything back in the car only to discover that something wasn't right. I'm in the process of a major rebuild on my 240, replaced everything including the pilot bushing. This bushing is sometimes overlooked because it can be tough to get out. You'll know it's bad by the nasty squeal, but then it's too late. Here's a tip - get a 5/8 bolt or piece of bar stock, one wrap of black electrical tape to make it snug, fill the hole with grease and hit the bolt head sharply - the hydraulic pressure pops out the bushing. Here's a photo, better than an explanation. I hit it about 6 times with a heavy mallet, no need to be gentle.

Here's the video we made for the car.

And then, there is the DU6 Not without their challenges from what I’ve read. A company in the UK has started making them again though. Or this crazy set up on a V12 Jag ....

Z therapy?

Long may you run!

Eiji ran low 14’s I ran high 14’s. I hope to crack into the 13’s in two weeks with the new Stroker motor. It feels much fadter, but you know how that goes.

1st and 6th spark plug. Weird that I’m running rich but the engine won’t start unless I fully push down the pedal. I’m completely lost. In the mean time I’m going to get a new pair of plug cables

This may help describe this parking light switch location.

Make sure your clutch kit is compatible with your clutch collar! You'll end up being like me when I didn't check and had to take that transmission off several times.

A friend entered one of his Z cars into the Hot Wheels Legends Tour. (Ignore the reference to the wrong Peter Brock in the story.) https://www.fox5atlanta.com/news/alpharetta-man-competing-to-turn-his-car-into-hot-wheels-toy I'll be watching tonight to see if it shows up. https://www.facebook.com/events/708765086450998

Find this connector between the dash and body wiring harnesses. Check the yellow wire there. If you have a signal there, look for continuity on the yellow wire through the body harness. So it ended up that we did find out what was wrong with @GeoJoe's fuel gauge. I checked continuity on the yellow wire on the body harness. It read open line. The wire was replaced, and the gauge works.

Synching all those would be fun!!

When you say that, do you get petrol smells coming out of the back? Like a flooded engine? Verified “Getting spark” on ALL 6? Also with someone else cranking and you with a timing light, can you verify what it’s set to? As for the Yugo, breaking down was a “design feature”! There was even a book written about them! The Yugo: The Rise and Fall of the Worst Car in History https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/0809098954/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D1SHC3WCVCW8CX7HWZST

Here's a picture from a page from the 1970 FSM.

SU Secrets:

Aim below 13: https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-260z-280z-s30-forums-9/hi-all-im-norm-12-sec-dual-su-dude-61/

It’s cleaned up. Mold all gone. I replaced the clutch master today and bleed the system. If you don’t need a chiropractor you will after replacing that master. It was a nightmare getting under the dash to hook it up but this time I decided to unscrew the shaft from the bracket that connects to the pedal vs taking the pin out. I have no rear brakes but took it for a spin around the block anyway....watch out granny!!!!. Runs like crap. Lots of work ahead. Tomorrow, I’m repacking the front bearings, installing new rotors, calipers and brake pads. She doesn’t need my password just needs to unlock my phone and open Tapatalk. She has no interest though.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, that's a good start.

Cant you leave it in the garage and duct the exhaust onto the driveway so that you are on the right side of the letter of the law? :p You have a Z at 20!? Man you’re a cool dude! When I was 20 I had a gold (yes gold!!) 1.1L Ford Fiesta Popular Plus (the plus made it go 50% faster in your mind) with not much more than 54hp and 63lbft out of the factory! So really more like 45 real HP! And 0-60 in 14.8 secs with a tail wind!! Would have killed to be able to get insured on a Z at that time! Our car insurance for sub 25 year olds is criminally expensive in the UK.

Here’s a perfect example. Eiji and I race once each year in Dinwiddie. In this race, he’s running a stroker with trips, larger valves and taller cam. I’m running my usual .080 cut, Isky Stage III with a .040 over bore. It’s pretty close till top end. On May 14th we run again.....this time I’m also running a stroker still with SU’s.....we’ll see how that comes out LOL. I love my SU’s. Turn up the volume. 8971BB1F-3839-469F-859A-361D92C3B750.MOV

Update.... My Z is finally home, tucked in my garage. Quite a journey getting her here. With a busy job, home construction delays, COVID, push back from my wife and logistical challenges it finally made it home. Thanks for all the help from the members of this forum. Now it’s time to get my hands dirty and make it ready to run like it was meant to be. Today is interior mold removal day. If my wife sees that mold it’s game over, she’s push it out and set it ablaze! Where is was stored had a serious mold issue and the interior has a light blanket of mold everywhere. I took these pics today.

Let's not forget adding strength to the body as they were no designed to handle that much power.

330-400hp is an expensive proposition in these cars. It takes a good bit of money to build that kind of motor. Then you have drivetrain and brake upgrades. Ends up requiring a pretty big budget

Option A or B To do an LS swap properly you will need a much bigger budget than you think.

I read about this several days ago and have been viewing the various posts on here and FB about him. I never met him in person or spoke to him on the phone but his contributions to the automotive community are abundant. Add to that he sounded like a very generous person with his time and knowledge. It is very sad to hear of his passing and in the manner that it happened. My thoughts and prayers go out to his family and close friends that knew him well. He will be truly missed. May his passing be a reminder to all of us that our time and the time of those we care about is limited. If you have a friend or family member you have not spoken to lately or heard from, give 'em call, drop 'em a line, I am sure they would love to hear from you.

There was zero leakage of oil or antifreeze. I am certain the pitting and gouges are from debris. The pump gears are hard, but not like tool steel. A file scratches them. So, I finally got to measure the head today. Got in onto the bench and was rolling it into position and guess what I saw? Metal filings and glass beads in a water passage. Interestingly, the same machine shop did the work back in '96. Maybe cleaning after milling ain't a happening thing. I didn't find any metal in the oil pan, but definitely hard, rough, very small particles. Also, when I built this motor I capped it off with a polished valve cover from MSA. My search for the source of debris turned up a problem with that valve cover. The vent baffle perimeter is sealed with a material that is extremely hard (probably started as firm and flexible). I found several pieces of that sealant in the debris field. The pieces are quite brittle. If some of these made their way through the motor, I could easily see them causing this damage. If that is true, then any valve cover is essentially a time bomb. As if there aren't enough things to keep us awake at night. 🤯 Oh yeah, measured the head. It's been cut a total of .106" with .007 off the top (machine shop just did it) and the balance off the bottom. Combustion chamber now measures 43.5cc.

Anyone notice the debris at the water pump cavity in the TIMING COVER 😉? Or at the exhaust ports? How about these pics of what was a brand new oil pump... Truly, now a wasted pump. Some serious debris has been through this motor. Why did the oil filter not catch it? Perhaps bc it went into bypass during winter starts and that 5hit went right on through to ruin the oil pump, timing cover, cam towers, and score the cam and crank journals. Maybe more. What I've not commented upon is the fine grit I found in the oil pan. I've spent a lot of time reflecting on what was going on at that time in my life ('96 - '97) to try to understand what might have happened. I've considered my negligence or oversight by allowing debris in the area while building this motor, machine shop debris left in passages (again, my oversight for not clearing it), sabotage by employees (I had received several serious threats), contaminated oil and antifreeze (IMPOSSIBLE), and so on. My principal concern is to avoid it happening again! The cost to have the original machine work done was painful then, now it'll be much worse. More later...