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Ah, I see. Some people get carried away and break out the prybars and hammers when a puller will do. Oh, well then, now your covered. The key that fell inside is likely in the oil pan, so no worries there. The oil pickup has a screen so it won't get sucked into the lubrucation system. It is too heavy to get sloshed into the rotating assembly. You may find it again at an oil change, in fact you may want to pour your used oil through a screen until you find it. I stole the strainer from Mrs. Racer's kitchen stuff for a similar job in the shop. Works great. She asked me recently if I had seen it. I didn't come clean. Her birthday was last Monday and she got a brand new one.

That is exactly what happens if the key slips out of place when you install the damper. The key rocks the wrong way in the slot, gets jammed in there, and if you keep pressing and force the pulley on anyway, it cracks the brittle cast iron pulley. Since some dampers are really hard to get onto the crank snout anyway, you might not even notice the force required to get the pulley "home". If you use the large bolt through the middle to jack the pulley into place, you'd never know. And (as it sounds like you found out) it won't necessarily affect the running of the engine like that. If the pulley slips, it will screw with the timing marks, but if it's timed correctly, you may never know. So if your PO did that and timed the engine when he put it together, it may have been like that (seemingly just fine) since then.

A small milestone, first coat of PPG epoxy primer is on, hoping to have the final paint on before the humidity starts in June otherwise I'll have to wait until mid August.

Some research found that Rockford Drive Lines 815-962-1411-has developed a whole series of u joints for the many vehicles that have staked in, "non serviceable" driveshafts. They have a very informative website, but the installation instructions are a bit generic in nature. According to the specifications as well as the vehicle application chart found on their site, the staked in Z models can be replaced with #430-10 which includes the inner retainer clips and the grease zerk that is installed in one of the caps. The specs are listed in standard sizes. .867 cap size which is 22mm and the lock up dimension of 1.4. Measuring my joints and yokes reveals an exact match. I will keep you posted on the progress which will be slow. My wife is having major surgery-spinal fusion-next week, and that obviously will be my top priority along with my job in the coming weeks. We are just trusting the LORD for the whole outcome and recovery. Hope this info may be a help to some others with an actual part number and reputable supplier. Thanks, John-Lugoff, SC.

About the oil slinger. I have been inside a lot of engines over the years, and they all have had one. It serves a number of purposes. It keep excessive amounts of oil from splashing onto the oil seal. It doesn't stop it all, but reduces the amount. The seal needs a little lubrication, as the grease it gets packed with upon assembly doesn't last long, getting washed away by the detergents in the engine oil. It also "slings" oil around the inside of the cover, lubricating the timing gear, be it sprockets and chain(s), or gears (diesel engines, racing engines and exotic sports car engines). A manufacturer doesn't install anything on a car it doesn't need to, because stuff costs money and cuts into profits. I can't explain why Honsewetz has that line in his Datsun hot to book, especially because it conflicts with text elsewhere in the book. Maybe someone should look him up and ask why. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ On an other note, I was thinking about what seems like too many people struggling with woodruff keys lately. As I mentioned, I've lost count of how many engines I've had apart and assembled. Sure, those keys were tricky at first, but I learned tricks to make assembly easy and stress free. I mentioned the dab of grease to hold it in place. I've even found that putting some motor oil in the keyway (I keep an oilcan with a tapered spout in my shop with oil in it for all kinds of lube work, works perfect for this) will keep the key in place (the surface tension forms a strong shear resistant bond between the key and the keyway). Always have the keyway straight up, at 12 o'clock. Gravity helps. Set the key parallel to the shaft centerline, then drop the forward end slightly, no more than a few thousandths of an inch. Clean the inside of the hub bore with emery cloth, break the edges of the keyway, then take a jeweler's file and go over the edges of the keyway that faces the engine, chamfering a few thousandths of an inch. Make sure there are no rough areas after filing, clean up with emery cloth if needed. Smooth is important to prevent the possibility of a crack forming, which doesn't end well. Clean everything very well. Stoddard solvent is perfect. Dry it off and blow with shop air before putting some antisieze (sparingly, a film is enough) on the inside of the hub. Hold the damper with both hands, with the keyway at 12 o'clock, slide it on. Line it up with the key, and ease it on, watching the key until you can't see it. When the hub bottoms out, try to rotate it. If it doesn't rotate, you are ready for the bolt. Be sure the bolt and the threads in the crank snout are clean and dry. A couple drops of LocTite 242 blue, thread the bolt all the way in, and torque to spec.

‘Cliff, interesting idea. I bought mine through Walmart.com as they were $12 less per tire than Tire Rack. I really like the Rewinds too but the Rotas were a very close second. Price and availability made the choice pretty easy, I got home on Wednesday night so the credit card will be in an official cooling off period. I’ve been working like a dog since Covid became the underlining global issue and I’m finally getting some good time off. Looks like about 30 days. The garage is ready for the Z. Bought the lift installed it in between trips and now I just need to rent a car hauler and get it out of my Mom’s barn. I got all new brake rotors and calipers coming and shoes for the drums (thanks S30Driver for the tips) . Once it gets here the first order of business is getting safe brakes installed all around. I ordered Russel Speed Bleeders for the calipers and drums so bleeding is a simple one man job. Not sure if you’re familiar but another thing I looked into on my down time. http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/ Here’s the new parking spot for the Z. Just need a large mat on the floor because all the work ahead is going to get messy fast and I’m a bit obsessive about keeping stuff organized and clean. 🤓

It's like they give them away! If you do the dance, use their credit card and mail in the rebates from different companies they are sure cheap. I bought mine through Discount Tire Direct on a black Friday thing. Bought Rewinds in graphite with Hankooks and loved them then MSA comes out with satin black Rewinds. Sun's of britches! I really like those wheels, especially with my black rocker stripes. In my head of course. Locked down with a credit card. Eww, that's scary.

Thanks for the feedback guys, So after finishing up my research on tires I went with one not on the above list. After reading many reviews and looking at the spec/value ratio I came up with the General G Max RS. This tire hasn’t been on the market long (2018) and is outperforming it’s completion in almost all areas. Tire Rack has so much information and research available that it’s really a one stop shop for tire information. This tire either beat or was on par with the Yokohama, BGFs, Falkens and Dunlop’s at an unbelievable price. I paid out the door for 4 tires $370 shipped to my door, and General offers a $70 rebate if you buy before 1 April. So $300 is the total cost. I went with 205/55R16 https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tests/testDisplay.jsp?ttid=247 It’s a summer tire but it doesn’t get too cold where I live and we get a snow dusting once every 4 years. BTW, these General tires are made by Continental in the USA, Once mounted on my wheels, which MSA just emailed me saying the Rewinds arrived I will post a pic.

I still have fond memories of the start of this project cruising in CO's cool purple Z with the AF sensor stuck in the back on the streets of Toronto base lining the L Jetronic. I wish we lived closer together. Two mad scientists... and more than enough lathes!

And they had the nerve to write on our report cards: Teacher's Remarks A lot of talent being wasted here.

Noun - person, place or thing. Thank you Mrs. Partridge, high school English teacher. She thought I was an attentive student but I was really just making a list of all of the parts I needed for my car.

Put some denticles on it. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/323011115_Shark_skin-inspired_designs_that_improve_aerodynamic_performance

I put a N47 head on my 2.4 block. Chucked up the valves and spun scratches in the smaller bore block. Notched them then used clothes line wooden pins to hold the larger valves in place on the N47. Put it back on then unclipped the pins letting the valves drop without any contact. Worked good and gave me some quality drinking time in the coldest of winter. Provided but not required. Like I need an excuse to drink!

Well, thanks @Racer X for getting me to look at this closer. I continued looking at pics and reading through some old posts and I see a problem that I did not before. Coolant holes in the gasket are not to my liking. My head gasket: My block and head: A Nissan Comp MLS gasket: So, at this point, I don't feel good at all about the gasket I used. I should have checked the coolant holes. It seems best to pull my cyl. head off at this point. I still have the issue of pistons above the deck by .025" and all the thoughts shared earlier in that regard. So, will have to see about how best to proceed. First step is to take the head off.

Hmmmmmm. I chose not to do that for this engine. Prompted by your question, I did some researching of eyebrow notching the L24. I found that some people's L24's had valve to block contact. I became a bit concerned that I missed a required modification to keep the larger exhaust valve (or the intake) from hitting. I found a couple of relevant threads: It looks like I should have checked mine out specifically for clearance issues. The head has been bolted and torqued with a new Nissan gasket at this point. I don't know if it can come back apart without replacing the gasket. Kind of a pain... So, my block is bored .030" over which is more than the .5mm Carl mentions. From a valve clearance standpoint, I am probably ok. That said (and I will attempt to verify as best I can without removing the head), is it highly beneficial to do?

Numbers look good. Let's just hope that when the WOT contacts are back in the picture, it doesn't mess things up. Hopefully you'll be able to bend the WOT out of the way far enough so it doesn't interfere with your cruise numbers. I was thinking about it just a little more, and another relatively simple idea would be to mount a new WOT switch somewhere else on the system if you needed to. That way you could adjust where the WOT actuated independent of the idle switch. (or vice versa... install a separate idle switch, etc.)

I would sit at the back of the classroom and draw pictures of cars. Teachers would catch me, send me to the principals office, then my parents would get called in. Then my creativity was stifled. Instead of fostering my artistic talents, I was punished and forced to stay after school and do extra lessons. I still drew pictures of cars, sometimes in the margins of the lesson papers.

Glad you didn't ingest it! New strainers all around.

No idea. I'm not the first owner. Good call, I notice that mark there on the right side of my picture now. I have a 2nd engine, I don't think it has a slinger either.

Just progressively finer sand paper, I think I finished with 400 grit then 0000 fine steel wool, the power was good even without the trumpets so anything extra was a bonus but the intake sound was glorious. I have no proof at all but I'm pretty sure the width of the trumpet affects the sound coming out.

Use the term "heat soak". It's been discussed in depth in the past. Aluminum fuel rails seem to help, they dissipate the heat, apparently. It's a very common problem.

Or...bend the arm away farther. 6 of one, half a dozen of the other theory?

Oh why aren't things funny anymore? I'm growing old...

If you have not used a commercial plating service previously, be advised that tiny bits can/will get lost - it's just the nature of the process. You can help to avoid much (but not all) of that by tying small items together. I use soft wire for stringing springs, nuts, washers into a loop to cut down losses. For small screws I use a thin SS wire and wrap it a few times around the threads, then give it a few twists to lock it, then daisy-chain the next one and so on. This approach is not perfect but far better than leaving everything loose.

I don't think so. Number 1 , it would destroy the 22 trillion dollar US economy. Number 2 , I think the trucking, farm, and aerospace industries would not like it. Number 3 , crude oil is refined for much more than fuel, plastics etc. Take with a grain of salt what you read or see on those radical left new green deal websites. As far as the gas goes for your 280, run quality non-ethanol if you can. I replaced a $300 Nissan fuel pump inn a friends 280 last year that was leaking due to sitting with ethanol fuel. I am lucky, the Phillips 66 near me has non-ethanol in mid and premium grades. My .02 cents (dollars actually)