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Zed Head
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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/06/2021 in Posts
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Help ID this
3 points
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saturday night music thread
3 points3 points
- COVID-19
2 pointsTalk about a Super Spreader event! You can easily spot the undercover law enforcement by their mask they're wearing. Nobody else has one on.2 points- Help ID this
2 points- Help ID this
2 pointsIt’s a replacement washer pump. If you want to keep your windshield squirters working, yes, you need it.2 points- saturday night music thread
2 points2 points- saturday night music thread
2 points2 points- saturday night music thread
2 points- 1976 280 Z from Ohio to Dubai
1 pointHi Guys, First of all, I'd like to wish everyone a Happy New Year and the very best health ! I am new here but can already appreciate the overall dynamic and supportive mindset of the neighborhood ! End of May 2020, insomnia hitting, I somehow ended up on BaT at 2am and got my hands on a beautiful 280 Z from April 1976 with its original matching number engine + 1981 280zx 5-speed gearbox (the original 4-speed also came in a box). The car is originally from Nebraska I believe, but transferred to Ohio in 2016. Obviously with COVID-19 and loads of excuses from the transporter (CFR Rinkens - DO NOT recommend), the car reached Dubai (UAE) mid September 2020. From the previous owner in Ohio: To Dubai, fresh out of the container, 4 months later. The plan from the beginning was very simple, as the car had already been through some body work and was repainted at least once in 1998 from its original Pacific blue (DAT 307), I wanted to give it backs it's factory glory and color, but with a personal restomod touch under the name Zinta Heritage (Zinta meaning: From early in life, you have asserted your individuality, learning through your own experiences, relying upon your ingenuity and practical creativity to accomplish your objectives with independence and determination). I decided to have it fully dismantled and sandblasted (we can see the dated Pacific Blue remains in the engine bay). This is when surprises knock on the door, a lot of body "repair" badly done, plenty of patches, poor quality welding and so on, especially on both front ends and the floor. Some rust holes showed up as well, but can we blame a 44 yo car from Northern states ? Nop... Then, following my original vision to make her "as new" the work started, removing patches, cutting, hammering, welding... As of now, the body work is 70% completed, the floor kit arrived from Zedd Findings (Big up to Charlie Osborne for his support) and will be replacing the old one. Some other area to be finalized in the next few weeks, cleaning the engine bay from the "useless" pieces, deleting the side markers (front/rear), deleting the unused rear bumper holes, closing the ugly speaker holes made in the toolkit hatch and some overall rear panels hammering for perfect alignment with doors (as they were probably replaced in 1998 as well). I also managed to get some parts in prevision of the rebuilding process: - Jenvey ITBs kit with 480cc injectors, MS3 Pro Evo ECU, DG508 ignition coils, OneSixIndustries CAS, complete engine seals/gaskets kit, timing chain kit, water pump, T3 front/rear strut brace, T3 weld-on coilovedr kit (car came with unmounted KYB Excel G), Prothane bushing kit, full weatherstrip kit. In the meantime I was also keeping myself busy restoring the dashboard and gauges (obviously cracked and hidden under a plastic cover). It will be eventually wrapped in dark black alcantara, but I didn't want to wrap a piece of garbage... Regarding the gauges, I got my hands on some LED rings and bulbs in order to get some decent lighting, and decided to redesign the speedometer (originally imperial and I need metric) and tachometer and have them screen printed), as well as giving a neon orange touch to the needles. The painting should be happening within 2 or 3 weeks, and then the reassembling process will start. Happy New Year to you all !1 point- COVID-19
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1 pointSpeaking from my past when you do not have stability in your early life you will have insecurity in your later life. Look at me! exactly. The lies you'll tell just to get that recognition. Most people change that way of thinking when the real world hits them. Some do not and I'm watching them on my television. So very sad but I'm not feeling sorry for these fools.1 point- COVID-19
1 point- COVID-19
1 point- COVID-19
1 pointI agree. Their plan is to follow the example of their "Fearless Leader". Hold their breath, stomp their feet, whine about how unfair life is to their EGOs, figure out who's to blame and how to exact revenge. If this reeks of emotional insecurity, it's because that's what drives it and most emotional immaturity is caused by childhood trauma.1 point- COVID-19
1 pointBig picture-wise, probably best that this happens now. So people understand what's possible and prepare for it next time. The news shows keep it calling it a coup attempt, but that implies a plan for after the takeover. It's really just a bunch of people looking for somewhere to tear things up, no plan. A big flag-waving party. They're in, what do they do now?1 point- fuel pressure regulator location
1 pointFrom the instructions on Holley's website: I used the configuration in Figure 2 for the 12-804 FPR, but again, I did not use a stock 260Z or 240Z fuel rail.1 point- Help ID this
1 pointYou'll need the fluid reservoir that the pump fits. It's fitted and sealed at the bottom of the reservoir. Might as well power up the pump and make sure it spins. Some don't.1 point- saturday night music thread
1 point- Tensioner sounds
1 pointThere should be some resistance, easy to turn pushing on it with a finger, but doesn't spin freely. It is a viscous coupling. The bimetal spring moves a plate, closing the gap between the two parts of the clutch. The unique property of the silicone fluid is the more it is pushed on the more it resists. so the heat coming off the radiator changes the shape of the bimetal spring, which pushes the plate against the fluid, and the fan becomes increasingly coupled (although it never is fully coupled, similar to a torque converter in an automatic transmission), and the fan pulls more air through the radiator. So sounds like yours is OK in that regard. In my years as a mechanic I knew other guys who would grab the fan blade while the engine was running, and stop it from spinning, while the engine continued to idle away. These were the same knuckle draggers who checked for the presence of spark, or leakage in the plug wires with their hand. When you get it on the water pump hub, and the bolts tight (tip: use the belt to hold the pulley while tightening the nuts), check the fan clutch bearing for play. There may be a spec, but a feel can be developed for this. A used clutch will have a minor amount of play. As long as the fluid isn't leaking out, it should be good to go.1 point- Tensioner sounds
1 pointHe has moved out of the shop in clear view. Pops up on Craigslist once in a while.1 point- My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread
That looks like a very good replica. Here are pictures of my original (1970) in similar orientation for comparison. The only difference I noticed was the quantity and orientation of the staples.1 point- 1976 280Z Restoration Project
1 point- Original Areas Painted body
1 pointThe black-out of the radiator bulkhead and grill mount tabs is commonly overlooked with many repaints.1 point- Tensioner sounds
1 pointIf your oil pressure gauge shows oil pressure, you should see oil coming from the spray bar.1 point- California 1978 Datsun 280z Restomod
A few more because... why not! Looks pretty mean with the air dam installed. Ignore the rear ride height, the rear doesn't have coilovers installed yet.1 pointRemove Ads - COVID-19
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