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Been calling around looking for another Maxima 47 head for a project I’m doing for a customer . I called a a junk yard that showed one available . I asked the guy if he really had one . He said “ I have 6” . I about dropped my phone . I said , “ I’ll take 4 ! “ I also picked up a 4 speed auto from the Maxima . Might as well fill the pallet !

I sorted this out! Wanted to close out the thread. My problem was addressed by a combination of fixes: I repaired the broken console (was broken in three places and sitting too low), reinstalled the PO’s aftermarket radio (was pushing down on the harness), rerouted wiring around the fuse box, cleaned up sloppy wiring, and general returning-things-to-their-proper-places. thanks to all here for their thoughtful responses. Hope I can do the same soon. regards, bob t

Don't get me wrong. I am a tool snob and HATE 99% of the HF tools. I buy latex gloves and tarps there, but little else. As for jacks, they really aren't much of a safety concern because no jack, no matter the brand or condition should be trusted even for a moment. I treat floor jacks like I treat guns and assume it's up to me to be safe. The jack stands are the exact opposite. I have never bought HF jack stands as I'd rather not be crushed to death under my car. I like the Pittburgh 2.5 ton jack.

I have three HF floor jacks. Two are full-sized aluminum, and one is a small steel model. They all have performed well for many, many years. I have jackstands that are over 20 years old (pre-recall) and look & work totally fine. Not all of their tools are one-use, but I wouldn't consider many heavy duty. HF actually has come out with higher line tools, too. I bought a couple of Daytona brand jacking dollies for a friend, and he bought two more. They work great for moving cars around in his garage. HF offers some tool chests that are similar to the quality that you find at the big box home improvement stores.

Fixed

Well, Did much better in my opinion on the second go around. @EuroDat how you saved the brackets? Kudos to you!! Just opened up one other hole. Rookie mistake! But it looks like a Z Now!!

The blower motor part number is the same for AC and non-AC cars: 27161-N3600

Hi, yes, it fits into the standard housing. They're being made to with the correct material by a company that only makes steering racks and parts.

And another. Something new every day... https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1979-datsun-280zx-18/

Over the years I've always seen the reaction disc problem described as one where the brakes are either full on or full off. I think that's why it's called a reaction disc. I feel compelled to say that a fallen reaction disc causing the pedal to slowly sink to the floor just does not make sense, physically, mechanically, hydraulically, or any which way. The actions of doing the work to take things apart, find the disc, glue it back in to place, and rebleed the brakes might be leading to better pedal function and brake operation, but there's no direct rational reason for the missing disc to allow the master cylinder piston to travel the length of the cylinder without creating pressure.. I feel better now. Magic makes me nervous. Be gone evil spirits!! Edit - unless the missing disc causes the MC rod to "cokc", causing the piston seals to leak. Maybe that's it. Indirect effect.

Here are some links to in-car videos of real racing in old cars, just in case you've never seen that kind of thing before:

There are different manufacturers. Maybe the "spec" is only for the blades. Or maybe there is no spec. These guys sell low profile blade fuses. https://www.12volt.com.au/redirect.html?a=/General Htmls/webcat2003/breakers.html https://www.amazon.com/50A-Medium-Auto-Automotive-Fuse/dp/B06XDBLLDY

Boy Scout prank, 1965.

https://www.nzherald.co.nz/bay-of-plenty-times/news/bay-of-plenty-couple-die-20-minutes-apart-after-66-years-of-marriage/5XRVQNSPERR4ZDZB44F7GB6BGI/