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I have a pdf of the 520/521 Datsun Pickup parts catalog and in the explanation of Nissan parts number system it mentions the Nissan NES part numbering system for hardware type items, here is a snippet: This parts catalog doesn't have full detail of the NES system but with a google search i found some interesting info on datsun1200.com. There is an article on the evolution of Nissan part numbers. I can't vouch for it's accuracy but here is a snippet on the 10 digit breakdown that expands on what you describe above: Here is a link to the web page, http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=NES_Part_Numbers Cheers, Mike I think I found the topic you were looking for, funny its references the same site I found,

I've got the correct bolt and washers, will be giving it to him this afternoon.

The parking brake adjustment mechanism is designed such that it will not tighten the drums so far that the shoes rub. Pulling the handle moves the shoes, but the adjustment wheel only moves when the shoes get out far enough to get the arm over the next tooth on the wheel. After it goes over the tooth the arm drops back enough, in to the valley between the teeth, to let the shoe fall back slightly. The adjustment arm moves up and down in the valley between the teeth every time you pull the handle until the shoes wear enough to get over the top of the next one. If you have the mechanism working just crank way on the parking brake handle until the handle ends up in the same spot with each pull. Over time you'll notice that the handle pull gets longer then suddenly it will get shorter as you pass over a tooth. I rewrote this a few times, but that's the basics, I think. It's a pretty cool mechanism.

Never mind.

As previously mentioned, you need to make a change with the headlight harness to convert it from the negative ground switched to positive switched for the led lights to work. If you are in the market for led's, take a look at Vintage Car Led Headlights (they don't look funny) https://vintagecarleds.com/7-inch-round-headlights/ Highly recommended ....

@SteveJ has a lot of experience with LED headlights

You are correct Cliff. The switch in the picture looks like an aftermarket one. The oem switch has spade connections as opposed to the wires coming from the molded switch body. Mine, one of the spade connections was broken off almost flush with the switch body and I was able to solder the connection to get it functional. I eventually need to replace the air dryer and the switch, but am getting away with it for now.

About a month ago, one of the CZCC members pointed out that Nissan's part numbering scheme for 'normal' bolts actually contain the full bolt spec. I wish I'd remembered to copy that post into my notebook, but you can kind of see it in the PN for this particular bolt: '61812' I think it goes something like this: x-yy-z-a x = thread diameter ('6 '= 6, '8' = 8, '0' = 10, '2' = 12) yy = length under the bolt head (18mm in this case) z = ? (I think it's the pitch designator - '1' for coarse thread and either '0' or '2' for fine thread) a = ? (I think it's the grade designator -- most of the suspension bolt PN's show '0', whereas this low-load bolt's PN is '2' Maybe somebody with a better memory can fill in the correct information.

Although his option was not requested, i would listen to @Zed Head , hes never led me astray. All jokes aside, I think you would be better off running the turbo motor as is. from https://datsunzgarage.us/engine/ `The F54 has "siamesed" cylinders meaning that instead of coolant flowing between all the cylinders as on earlier models they are connected between 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 with cast webbing for more rigidity. In addition there isn't a special "turbo block", all Datsun did to make the F54 a turbo motor was to replace the flattop pistons with dished ones to lower compression and add a turbo head. ` but you know you said you did not want a turbo motor, so its better to just send it to one of us and continue your NA build

Or ditch it for a RT Mount and fix the less than optimal design.