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One more for incentive

Wow... Just found this animated chart of COVID vs. other causes of death. Take a look, takes 20 seconds or so... https://public.flourish.studio/visualisation/1812248/?fbclid=IwAR2nmnJefJvZ40SgimD6vDDKOgUjWMUi3dYOraH7rsCu1T6FRxBue7u9Ck4

Hot Damn!! what a gorgeous ride - well done. reminds me of better days with mine. Yesterday I got her running to move her into storage (to await the second restoration). It’s been a year since the crash and I’d forgotten how much fun she was to drive!

There should be a production date on it like 9 - 10 or so.See the last picture if you want to discus a complete restoration of your car, we can do it for you.. There are so many details you have to fix! The seat bottom was a first try-out, the frame is not painted in this picture. But all materials are correct. We have about 5 original first paint cars as an example and restored about 45 S30’s. please contact me at christoffel2369@gmail.com

Happy ? to all Z owners! Spring is here and as I am about to start the restoration of my ‘70 903 240, I tried to scan the hidden and untouched areas of the paint to see if I could figure out the right mix with no avail... Tried to research online but no definitive answer as it is always “close to”. In the paint-shop computer 903 does not show up either once scanned. Anyone here had it really decoded to original specs? Thank you! P

Regardless of whether or not CO-19 is the #1 cause of deaths in the US right now, the fact remains that we're individually better off staying away from close contact with others. Now, we all realize that this can't go on indefinitely. It would be a plus if I had faith in the current administration to believe that they are thoughtfully comparing strategies for exiting the lockdown, because we really need a thoughtful approach based on what is known and what is learned in the US and in other countries. There is no evidence that this is happening, and it should have been in the works for some time. Sweden has gotten a lot of press because of their tiered approach with lower risk people having more freedom of movement. Is it working? I think that's open to question, but whatinhell is the Trump admin doing to study it? Why aren't they they telling us about the kinds of studies they are doing instead of having the Cheeto in Chief do daily ego-stroking sessions? (Don't bother to answer, the Cheeto's insistence on ego boosting is the answer.) Regardless, we are going to have to change the rules for the lockdown before we run the economy too deep in the ditch. We need a well-researched, thoughtful way to start opening up the country, but not one that depends on the data "in here" (Trump's orange-tinted head, as per his recent press conference remarks.) Any competent administrator would have been working on this for weeks, and would make some attempt to tell the US what their plan is for gathering information and making decisions...or at least reassure us that they're working on such a plan. Instead we're waiting for Trump to find the data in his orange head ("in here...") and come up with some pasted-together overly simple idea. This is not promising.

Well they are a little different. That one is to convert from points to electronic ignition because you would otherwise have no adjustment base. Yours is an advanced timing plate. I doubt there is a patent so you should be good to go. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found 903 listed here, looks to be available in quantity: https://www.automotivetouchup.com/ Previously I contacted this group for touchup not listed, they quickly found the formula and added it to their listing. They also sell in quantity: https://www.paintscratch.com/

Correct Alex. 2.5 turns down is just the starting point for tuning a 2.4 litre. A larger engine ( like yours ) will need more fuel so the jet should be lower than 2.5. Or you can buy richer needles. ?

My bad. I had a 76 that I could start with my 95 Pathfinder key.

There really are two mirror image blank styles. And of course the early cars had the single edged keys. MSA has a nice description. https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/30-7457-58

Interesting, this was really fun work back then. I worked for a division of Lockheed Martin, ILS. I think it is now part of ULA with Boeing. I worked on Intelsat and was project manager for the Sirius Satellite launches on the Proton. Fun stuff. This was back in the 90's, early 2000.

I removed the drivers seat today in preparation of installing new foam and seat covers. I'm providing some pictures here looking for ideas and the proper way to rebuild the seats. This is the bottom of the seat, lots of dry rot. Is there a way to replace these straps like original? The back adjuster seems to be missing a part, or is this how it looks? Any idea where I can get the parts to fix this? Is there a replacement part for these plastic protectors? Or material I can make new ones out of ? How are people doing this ? Things I found under the seat. Where can I find one of these ? Additional photos. The seat rails look like they are a military green. The grease is still in place but dried out. The fact that the grease is still there since 1970 is interesting. Any ideas what kind of grease this is? It's dry nature might be natural, but I doubt it? I'm not sure rebuilding these is something I'm going to be able to do, I may need to take them to a shop. I'm just concerned they will throw them together and not be concerned with getting them close to correct.

I’m having second thoughts and thinking I like the gloss looking tail light surrounds over the matte finish.... convince me otherwise! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The one that works is R cut.

I fixed the oil cooler line then started the engine so to get it hot enough to trigger the electric fan, just before the fan turned on a coolant line I hadn't tighten fully blew off so back to cleaning the floor again. Now that is repaired I was going to take the car out for a spin, I jump in and it won't go in to gear, it seems the Datsun clutch MC is just a bit shy of enough displacement for the BMW slave cylinder. I'm pretty sure somewhere on the shelves is a 7/8" clutch MC from back in the days when I had a TR6 but that's tomorrow.

Here’s some pics:

And use a piece of metal shaped like a (side) banana peel.. sort of.. why? The upper piece will bend as you hit it with a big hammer. And make it square after you made the big dent.. think about it, you'll get the picture. (make the edges with a chisel (for steel obviously… my translator could give no good word for it but i mean the chisel that you use for breaking stone walls and can be used to make a nice edge in sheet metal.) Also use some clamps and then make the bend.. or whatever you need to do. Btw, i think it's a good idea to make a special topic on these things, or make a list with where one can find certain "make it yourself" substitute parts.. Back to GAUGE's and inches and millimeters!! ?

I did that on the 77 280 and turned out quite presentable. Only another Z guy would take a 2nd look.

This is four coats of graphite. Needs to be matte cleared after this. The final result should not be glossy.

The brake caliper bolt is the one for who wants to restore it properly. And is this a small dish able to be used for tension rod ? You can see the part number is different from the original. 54537-21003 is the original part number , I have 54537- 41L00 . I found I have twenty of them in my stash , too much . These parts are going to someone who can buy a DINO 246 for me . Kats

Hi , I hope you enjoy the ride , and the restoration for your 1970 car . I am sure you can get a lot of advices here and you can search everything you need . I recommend when you go through the suspensions, do the drive train i.e . the propeller shaft and the two drive shafts , the diff mount insulators , hubs , brakes etc . If the shocks and coil springs are new but the drive shafts and the propeller shaft are not restored , you will not be happy with your car when you driving it . The engine , the transmission, and the diff are need to work properly of course but that would be next time as I see your car is now in a very good condition. It is fun to order bolts and nuts to the Nissan local dealer ,I hope you can get most of them . Use correct fasteners are very important especially the places where need to be correct tightening torque. It is OK to re- use old bolts and nuts but new ones are always better . And it is beautiful , and you will be highly rewarded for sure . Kats