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I've to search for the under glovebox photos...I can't locate the photos...perhaps I've got them on another disc...but I promise that tomorrow I'll post the photos!!! ahahah...no...too far from Japan!!!

Hope you all will take a look and interested in what you think. The entire site was upgraded to: * Be secure * Cell phone compatible * User friendly * Faster loading I still have a few bugs to work out , but happy with it so far. Ron(Zclocks) zclocks.com

Naw, flog it. I stuck 3 different shafts in the lathe and they all say 5-7 thou run out. Should have spent more on the lathe....

Steve , You will have to get another car so I can populate it with a clock..

I scratched my head and finally at least have a clue why I can’t figure out what this. That fender badge says 280zx, so most here (including me) aren’t up on all the little hidden plastic body and fender bits and pieces. Does remind me of a mud flap like thingy

A few pics from the paint shop. This is the final primer. After it dries thoroughly shop will do final block sand and then paint white

@Dave WM needs another engine. It's already on a Harbor Freight engine stand.

Jim, Yup, that is the desired early shield. You can see it in the engine FSM printed in 1969 so probably spring/summer of 69 you see this:

Ow haha, yes it's my signature. Nothing to do with the Z in this topic.

Richard, don't give a price for your parts.. let 'm start bidding… 25 dollar for a type 1 steeringwheel is A JOKE! that one is going overhere (in Europe) for over 400 euro!!

I agree with you, Mark. The people in Arizona don't know how good they have it with their low-rust or rust-free classic cars. Can't beat the price at only $1,700.00!

Thanks all, I didn’t want to damage my air galley rail, as you can see from the pic it’s a perfect piece and has been replated. I chose to get the plugs from Z Car Depot.

Ok then, I saw the P30 prefex and thought it might be of worth to someone.

Siteunseen. I routed my PCV hoses like you did yours. Pretty cool, got rid of a small metal tube with bracket and about 4 hose clamps. Also discovered I still had the flame arrestor in my original hose. Thanks for that.

Got some under hood time with the BCDD. With key in on position and touching solenoid wire to connector it would click. With car running and wire disconnected, car would idle up at ~2k rpm. Hook the wire back up and it would settle back down to 800rpm. Turning the screw on bottom of BCDD had no effect on the high idle when solenoid wire was disconnected. Took it for a drive and the rpms would stay up when shifting and coasting, worse than before. I could pull up the pedal from underneath and it would drop, but pretty hard to drive that way. I thought I was going to have to take the TB off and clean it but when I took the linkage off it, it seemed to slam close pretty good disconnected from all throttle linkage. I checked the throttle linkage and found the FPR rubbing on the linkage. What a pain getting that to move enough for it not to rub. I cleaned up the linkage, and the balls and greased them. Low and behold, rpms drop now when letting off gas to shift. I don't know if the BCDD works or not, but it's driveable now. Also discovered I don't have dash pot on TB either.

Here is my title registration...some fields are scratched on purpose... You can see the suffix "U" when related to Model...but the vin is HLS30-xxxxx without the suffix... Now, I'll search for the glovebox photos...10 minutes again...ahahaha

Here I let you a document that proves that you're right...even the 260's are "Q". This document is related to imports to Portugal...as you can state, 71 has 70 z's imported, 72 - 25 Z's and 73-44 Z's... But a small and little detail, the 70 Z's from 1971, only 40 were sold in this year, the other 30 left were sold during 72... Mine is from March (1971) and was registered on the 27th August. I'll send you now the title...10 minutes...

I like the point about the tunnel shape . That is a big deal compared to what’s available now . Zed Findings floors are well made but don’t follow the tunnel shape correctly on the early Z .

Hi , I am still feeling the driver’s seat looked different from the passenger’s seat . This picture makes me wonder if our seats would have changed its shape in 1970 , the BAT green car seems to have the seat just like this black seat in the driver’s seat maybe produced in later 1970 . The seat back has different shape than the earlier one especially around the shoulder area . Kats

This transmission also has a leaking shifter shaft. The area where the shifter plugs in was always full of GL4 and causing a dribble on the floor. So I had a chance to try both my latest discoveries about removing that wedge pin to take the shifter rod out to change that little seal, AND how to remove and replace that little buried seal. Success on both cases. The air hammer gun popped the wedge pin out in 30 milliseconds again, and this time without any heat. I bought a set of really long seal picks, and that’s all it took to get that little seal out. You just need to put the tip of the 90 deg pick under the seal and YANK. And then to put it back in, I had no choice but to spend time on the lathe making a seal pusher-in-ner thingy. What other option would there be? Guess you could whack it with a 3/4” punch tip, but what fun is that. The specs are 13.9 OD on the seal ID part, 13mm long, then a section of 19.8 mm again 13 long. The nose guides into the hole, and the OD is just a tad smaller then the seal to push it home. The place it sits is about 1.5 times deeper than the width of the seal, so make sure it goes all the way to the bottom. I have no clue why the old seal leaked other than it was pretty hard and fit pretty loosely on the shaft. It was not damaged. Oh yeah, remember to put the dang thing in the right way. Oil is in FRONT of it, so when you insert it, with the open side to the back, against the insert tool.

Well now other than the need for a set of input shaft 4th gear set, I now need a main shaft too. I took apart the last of my good close ratio 5 speeds, in fact the one I’ve had rebuilt back 2008-9 and have had in my old 73 Z until its sale, and more lately in my 510. It was noisy in several gears, most noticeably in 3rd and 5th, and when you’re at a stop, foot off the clutch, you get a good rattly bearing noise. Other than that it worked perfectly. Upon disassembly, I noticed really only one problem. The forward end of the main shaft where the little needle bearing seats inside the back end of input shaft, is all scored up. And not evenly. When I put the shaft in the lathe, it seems to have about 5 thou run out. The needle bearing is quite loose on the shaft over the damaged area. These videos show the problem. Dang stroker torque bent the dang thing.... The 6 bearings look just fine, and spin silently. 84EDA2A5-E3BF-4942-B3D7-07C976AA7EB5.MOV EC2D0D51-2FEE-4A0C-A96B-F68E05F9A443.MOV

And remember.. Hitachi is USA.. on European ground the 240z had Clarion radio's standard they were only AM and no auto tune..