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THIS! Market, variant and production date will usually get us where we need to be.

Many of my friends in Japan we’re amazed by this green car . So many people were watching at the auction, I am sure the winner must be very happy obtaining the incredible car . Here are some pictures of A/C of Fairlady Z . The 110 Red car is the one which I showed before , totally original , untouched , beautifully maintained like the green BAT car . Kats

Yes it should be at about 14v if the alternator is working. If the alternator is related to the low idle it might be that the alternator is putting a lot of load on the engine. Try disconnecting the belt and see how hard it is to turn the alternator by hand.

You can get all your spare tire tools in one bin and get yourself a fire extinguisher to put in the other one. Mine is behind the passenger's seat.

The car is like new and has first paint! What is milage? ALso first paint?

I first have to give a shout out to my customers/friends Marc and Chris. About every two years or so I have to be reminded that my customers are The Greatest! Thanks guys! Sure wish I had saved the FIA papers I had to, as I remember, send off to France for along with, as I recall, $50.00. That was a lot of money for a Datsun dealer mechanic back in 1971 who was spending every nickel he had to race that 70 240 in IMSA. jason240z, thank you very much for cutting to the chase about 240guild and lsteppe. In one case you have a convicted fraudster and the other owns all the worthwhile Z cars on earth and is a gold plated diamond encrusted member of the Barrett-Jackson community who only drinks at the Pie-On-The-Sky Head-In-The-Clouds bar while at the auction. I had a run-in with the later character after he bad mouthed my business on the BAT comments section. Said he would never do business with me and strongly suggested no one in the community do business with me. He later called to apologize - long after the damage was done - but the apology lasted about 15 seconds followed by 3-4 minutes of his cars and what he's done to and with them. Series 1, series2, series 1.5. We were taught to identify Datsuns by their production date. Yes, That sound deadener was indeed on the floor, trans tunnel and rear deck of Zs. it was 2 different thicknesses and up until about 2 years ago was still available from Nissan US in both thicknesses. May still be available, I haven't needed any for that long. I'll give you, sorry but you don't have a choice and it ain't all pretty, my take on Mr. K and Nissan/Datsun in the US in the early days another time but just now I have some zinc to sort. Cheers and I hope everyone has a safe weekend

I would like to thank everyone for the very nice comments. I am new to the Z world and looking forward to what’s ahead. I can’t wait till spring so I can drive my car. I have never drove a z car yet. I am looking forward to see how my car will be excepted in the show circuit.

In the Netherlands it is even in the normal newspapers https://www.ad.nl/auto/prijzen-japanse-klassiekers-gaan-door-het-dak-310-000-dollar-voor-oude-datsun~abefc5d3/

Hi Blue , L24 vs S20 , both are wonderful engine. We need to be specific about what we are going to compare with them . Generally speaking ? Or racing cars ? L24 Europe vs US and Canada , etc etc . We can’t say like this , “ S20 has less torque so Z432 is inferior car in S30 family “ . Nissan works race car used a racing L24 , but we can’t say like this, “ showroom L24 engined car is superior than Z432 “ . We can’t say “ our US and Canada Datsun 240Z is superior than Z432 “ only relying a comment of the racer and a fact that Nissan works team took L24 rather than S20 . Racing history , results , came from a lot of complicated back ground. It is not that simple . You may say S20 in a works Z432-R had a terrible transmission vibration, yes some racers mentioned it . But that doesn’t mean S20 is a bad engine , Z432 is a bad car . Keeping the rev not below 6000 rpm , and sometimes using 10000rpm quite often in racing S20 Z432-R , it is obvious that transmission could have the trouble more likely than L24 racing car . L24 , thanks to the torque, it didn’t need that much rev . And , L24 is easy to maintain , S20 needs much more hands to set the valve adjustment accurately. L24 is easy drive too , so rally cars have L24 for its endurance, various kinds of road conditions. If we want to know what was going on , we need to hear , talk with many people who were involved Nissan , engineers , designers, racers , mechanics, in Japan like Alan has been doing . Time is running out, they are all became old . I can sympathize with you about trying to look down S20 and Z432 because I was doing same thing 20 years ago. Just one experience changed whole my idea , my understanding . Mr. Yoshida’s Z432 opened my eyes wider than the past days . We can’t hate it without driving it , owning it . Kats

I think this is what your are referring to @dutchzcarguy? There is a large hole that takes a plastic plug which in turn holds the fender extension. There is an indentation like the one in your pic from above^ Pardon the rust, but it is a parts car. '82

I just like the fact that this sale has blown up major news outlets .. https://www.businessinsider.com/pristine-1971-datsun-240z-sold-for-a-record-breaking-price-2020-1

Which "the" Skyline? I own a KPGC10 race car and I can tell you that its bodyshell is no stiffer than any S30-series Z bodyshell.

By the end of 1970, works-affiliated privateers with 432-Rs found themselves racing in re-jigged race classes that allowed engine capacities up to 3 litres. They promptly installed TOMEI-tuned pushrod H30 stock car engines in their 432-R bodies:

I think a 'fully loaded' '69/'70 HLS30U would struggle to make that weight in real life. I think the car used for the FIA 3023 homologation had - shall we say - a little bit of a diet before being tested... There's some talk that the FIA 3023 homologation sample car actually had a PZR body. JAF homologation of the 432-R was 960kg 'wet', so that's with 100 litre tank full. It seems to indicate the FIA 3023 car was, er, 'special'...

Most of the time - the problem with windows rolling up/down are caused by the felt pads and seals in the window door frames. You have to take the door apart - pull the window frames out - and replace the felt and rubber seals. Many times the plastic rollers on the window lift will be gone as well.. but cleaning and new grease will solve most problems.

We’ll try this again, if not let me know. Mine doesn’t have a hole there. The top pic is of how they are joined together.

This is a steal, very god car, all spotweldings in the wheelarches are in place

Yes Alan , we set an iPad and nice burgers for the show . I had a lot of fan , thank a lot !! Kats

Watching the auction count down 'live' in the pub with you was a slightly surreal experience, Kats. I think we were both giggling as the numbers went up and up, right? Crazy stuff.

No kidding. I'm getting phone calls from friends all over the country. This auction caused quite the stir.

I thought you were Dimwit #1 and I was #2, I'll tell you what, I'll wear the crown this year and you can have back next year, deal?

Hi Blue , you need to come to Japan and see me and my Z432 before it’s gone . I am talking about stock vs stock like Alan do . You will see what Z432 is like ? Kats

I've long wondered - when all overheads were factored in - just how much Nissan made on each HLS30U/UN/UV in, for example, 1970. There might well have been occasions where their selling dealers were making more per-car than Nissan Japan were getting back. No doubt the dealers were happy. Maybe that was part of the thinking...? We've talked about it in the past, but I still think that at least TWO models of '240Z' would have been suitable for the North American market; One 'Hot' one, and one 'Deluxe' one. Nissan themselves could have loaded the Deluxe with all sorts of fun stuff to charge more for. Like carpets, for instance... ?

Nice work. Those fuses have given their all. I did the same thing on my car a while ago... Tossed out all the old fuses and cleaned up the fuse block fingers before installing the new fuses. A little contact lube on the fuse block fingers. I would also recommend pulling apart and cleaning all the connections between the firewall harnesses and the console. You know... All the connectors that get corroded because the heater core leaked on them ten years ago. Good luck with the project and here's hoping there aren't too many gremlins hiding under the newer paint!

You make a number of good points, Alan. How ironic then, that Datsun dealers tended to prepare their cars with a number of various options, adding cost, and STILL couldn't keep up with demand. If nothing more, I would contend that Nissan really missed their projections of sales.

Charles, It's the RHD-specific layout as fitted to RHD production cars. Since the RHD heater/blower system (including the 'chimney' air inlet in the lower cowl part of the bodyshell) is RHD-specific and will not fit/work in LHD layout, it stands to reason that an LHD-specific version of factory aircon would be designed to fit the LHD layout. I can't show you a picture of an LHD-specific version because an LHD-specific version never made it to production in 1969... My point about the nascent air-con hose cut-outs in the firewall jute pad of the green BaT car is that - I'm willing to bet - they indicate that LHD-specific factory aircon must have been on the cards until quite late in the design/engineering processes. If not, why include the cut-out templates in the LHD-specific (it won't fit RHD) firewall jute pad? We know that there was a certain amount of de-contenting of the very first deliveries to North America, and - granted - some of the details will have been regarded as 'won't be missed', 'not necessary' or 'too expensive'. I believe there was a Tug-O'-War going on between NMC USA and NMC Japan over how to keep costs down whilst still making profit with a very competitive selling price. There were also - clearly - efforts made to simplify options and limit differences to the U/N/V variants which would help to maximise daily production volumes. I think factory aircon for North American market variants was a victim of all this. The wider point is that all the 'Made For USA' and 'Designed for USA' talk is not the whole story. Anybody who looks at these cars closely enough must realise that 'Made for Japan' and 'Designed for Japan' also happened, and so did made/designed for Australia, NZ, NL, Belgium, France, Germany, Portugal, UK, Scandinavia and others. S30, PS30, PS30-SB, HS30, HS30U, HLS30, HLS30U/UN/UV were all designed/engineered at the same time. That's why Nissan called it the 'S30-Series' at launch. It's a family.

The indention is there so it will meet the subframe rail. There is a step in there on the subframe that aligns with that indention. There is a row of spot welds through the bottom of the indention

I spent the day cleaning grounds and power connectors and worked my way around to the dim P/S headlight, I cleaned every connector and couldn't figure out why it was still dim. There was nothing left to check so I had a look at the fuses, Bingo, all of them were original and so oxidized that there wasn't much current passing through. Replaced all of the fuses and it fixed the headlights but blew the ignition relay, water had leaked into it at some time in the past and it was ready to pop, I guess it wasn't use to full power. Whiteheads had one to sell so I'll give that a go tomorrow and hope the next weakest link doesn't show up. So the car has a Stage 2 DatsunSpirt engine with only 5,000 miles on it, the car itself has 95,000 mi. New 16" Panasport wheels with Toyo Proxies , new complete exhaust system but WAY too loud so I'll install a resonator and see if that will bring it down. The 3.54 diff has been overhauled and a full poly bushing kit was installed. I think we'll be removing most of the poly and replacing with rubber. Tim has lots of plans and ideas for the car but they are evolving and changing from day to day, I have encouraged him to just drive the car as it is for the spring, summer, fall season, then in Oct. we'll sit down and draw up a plan, I have a feeling his list of wants are going to be very different in the fall. He has wanted a Z since he was a kid but has never driven one so this is going to be lots fun.

@7tooZ Dalwhinnie is nice, also Talisker. McCallan too, but that's expensive stuff - better suited to folks who can afford $310,000 cars.

Just another week at the bodyshop.. Some pic's of the right hand floor.. Welded spot and also on this pic the two bolts that in a lot zx's are a problem but not in this car! (the red is not rust it's a Original layer of the old glue that sat under the greenish tape.) Bought a old r-hand door for some internal parts, like the little clips../ window mechanism/ opener...etc. Here one can see what a "normal 280zx door looks like after 40 years.. So far so good, this is what the car looks like, putting it together for some fitment checks. Maybe next week or so.. the bodyman of the shop is taking over to get it perfect. I wanted to do that also but as the germans say: ICH HABE DIE NASE VOLL!! (STAUB) (translated.. I'm fedd up with it.. or.. I'm sick of it?) no seriously.. i've done this before but i can let them do this in less than half the time i would need. (And if i'm honest.. i really.. really!!! don't like prep and sanding!) Later on assembling the car looks like a nice job to do, especially now most parts are ready to fit to the car. Getting the front window in seems to be one of the last hurdles to take.. Does anyone know where i can get those clipstrips (rubber band with several stainless clips on them) needed to put the stainless trimming on? There was a shop is the States but they only had the lower or the upper strip for sale, (i'm not sure ) if i order there i need them both..

Jim, What you suggest is the exactly where it stands. However, like I stated at the beginning, it's the only thing that's not working, and I have a new (used/ebay) rheostat to repace it with. I can't imagine Nissan made this task as difficult as it appears - It would have cost them a fortune to replace if they had to pull the dash out when these were under warranty. Cheers, George