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Thanks to everyone for all the advice and assistance. The car just got delivered yesterday and everything went super smooth. My Datsun shared the 1800 mile journey with a Mclaren 570s bound for Sarasota- so it was in good company. Here are some pics of the move and it sitting safely in my garage.

It looked good before it left for Original Customs in Grand Rapids Michigan. It looked new when it came back. Hope you enjoy it!

Just posted this on HybridZ - not to double up, but I thought I'd add to what these brilliant Gentlemen are saying: Jeff, hate to keep harping on the transmission slave cylinder, clutch fork, collar, and throw-out bearing... BUT... I strongly recommend that you get the correct length collar and use the stock throw-out bearing. When all that is correct inside the bell housing, the fork should be pushed forward far enough that there is virtually no play between the fork and the stock slave push rod. In it's current configuration I believe you may well have trouble with the collar moving too far forward and slipping off the tube that it should glide back and forth on. If it does that while driving you'll be in trouble... The collar length needs to match the pressure plate thickness (not necessarily the type transmission you have but the clutch package). I have 3 different length collars in my collection. I also have fear and trepidation about that mustache bar. You definitely have an R180 diff and you need an R180 mustache bar that's mounted properly. The Z differential has a tendency to move - a lot - in it's factory fresh condition and I always want those bolt holes to fit nice and tight because the nuts will NOT hold the differential to the bar (without moving) by themselves. +1 on the starter relay - The start signal is one of the most common Z deficiencies. The solution many people use is to connect the start signal to a relay coil and use power straight from the battery to engage the starter solenoid.

A promotional claim that epoxy paints are low-VOC and chromate-free is disingenuous. They may be good for the environment, but they may prove to be very bad for you. Even the 'best' of filter-type full-coverage masks will not protect you from isocyanates. They are not particulates and they apparently cannot be trapped or absorbed or neutralized by a filter. To make matters worse, they are also absorbed through the skin. For proper safety protection, you need a full suit and mask-and-pumped-air system... which will set you back about $1,000. So why are catalyzed (aka '2K','two-pack', etc) paints apparently being used by so many hobbyists without any ill effects? It appears to be a combination of two factors: personal physiology, and extent of exposure. For some people, even a one-time exposure can lead to significant long-term health problems. For others, they may simply find that they can no longer tolerate future exposure because it's not worth the symptoms they experience. For others still, the symptoms seem to be minimal (or at least temporary... or maybe just postponed until they get older). You will hear and read many reports from people who say that they've used catalyzed paints for years with no ill effects. Those would be the people who fit into category #3. The problem is that you will not know which of the three categories you fit into until after the fact. This video, produced by the Ontario Ministry of Labour, may be of interest... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRstojCeyEQ Isocyanate-based paint hardener is sold at the retail level everywhere and with minimal safety warnings. I've experienced the chest-tightening symptoms and I will now only use the stuff in an open-air environment (i.e. outdoors, or with the garage door open). Others will disagree and say I'm being too cautious. I suggest you try a limited exposure to start.

I shipped this one to NY about six years ago. I wish i kept it but needed the money.

My paltry collection of such items is thus: My expection of worth are of course astronomical. I'm thinking $5 each... hohohoho

Old topic but worth bumping. I have been working on my history collection of Datsun dealer items. Anything out there for sale? Send me a message.

Good ingenuity. The other potential problem is the fork hitting the back of the hole before full release. Doesn't look centered, and looks like more than 6 cm. Might want to test it while the trans is easy to get out. The clutch system is super easy to bleed and doesn't take much fluid. Alrighty, that's my high-concentration Home Built catch-up. Good luck. From #67.

Weld a 1/2 piece of bar stock to a section of flat or 1/2 inch stock which will be your handle. Measure the clearance before welding. Wrap handle if you like. Now you have a tool that is long and strong enough. If you have an outie and not an inie for a fill plug take a 17m wrench you can either put the other end in the cup of a small jack and use the hydraulic power of the jack or cut the end off the box end of wrench and insert a length of 1/2 or 3/4 pipe to leverage the wrench.

OK so I just did the rub test with MEK, the cream coloured coating is definitely 2 part epoxy primer, I rubbed hard and nothing came away on the cloth but the last remnants of the undercoating. Thanks all.

So if you had the chance to ask Bob Sharp just one question what would it be? Here's some general areas you might think about for your question: Racing in general BSR race car drivers (Fitzy, Sam, Paul, Walter, Paul, et al) Competition (other drivers) Managing a race team Interactions with other race teams Interactions with Datsun/Nissan/Nissan Comp/Coventry, etc I doubt Bob will remember technical details like what camber settings or cam profiles did you use in the 1985 300ZXT that Newman drove. I know I can't remember every detail of my set-up and my season ended 6 weeks ago. A few years back I asked Bob if he could only get to drive one of his race cars which one would it be and he never hesitated - "the GTU car with 15 inch rear rims", "I could put that car anywhere".

I think I'll pass on the PLN sauce question but I will look in to see if there were any DNFs in the first two years. As to renting out the GTU car, you're out of luck if you wanted to drive the #33 car as Bob crashed that at Road Atlanta when a rear tire blew doing over 150 mph. He rolled it at least twice if not three times, The #38 GTU car that Fitzy drove is privately owned and as far as I am aware it has not been run on the track in many, many years. If you had $$$$$$$ you might be able to buy it.

MEK would be the better solvent. The MEK rub test is an actual coatings test, to assess degree of cure of 2K type coatings. It's a people-power test but they've tried to make a machine for it. A look in to the world of paint. http://www.trl.com/paint_solvent/ https://gardco.com/pages/abrasion/mekrubtest.cfm

The forward mounted angle caused vibration. But it was only on the very early cars. They changed in 71 I think. The propeller shaft was lengthened also. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/Datsun-Z-Index/Power-Train/Propeller-Shaft I'm not following all of the videos, I have a short attention span and can't watch a video for more than a minute, but aren't your parts supposed to fit together? Or are you piecemealing? On your videos - if you add an index to each one, ID'ing certain operations like diff install, trans install, etc. by time point, people can go directly to specific parts. Might get you more viewers. The suggestion is mainly for me though.

You should be able to just flip that moustache bar around. No need for a new one.

As a Scarab owner I can confirm that we do have secret handshakes? No - as mentioned earlier in this topic, a book about Scarab Engineering and some of the remaining cars, will be published in 2019. There’s many myths about Scarab and Mr Morrow, and it’s not many cars left, so we are indeed a exclusive group.

I believe this will explain your relay setup for the starter best: http://www.biopatent.com/solenoid.html

The bolts on the side flange area are an R180. Plus you can tell by the cover. The picture that 246 grabbed from your video, in post #349, shows an R180 cover. R200's didn't show up in the Z's until 1975.

It looks like a 240z R180 in the video. Have a look at the back shape and fill hole location to help.

Nabbed some of the photos for reference purposes...

WingZrO, I just got this NOS Datsun dealer sign with a clock built in and thought I would ad it to your old thread. -Mike