Leaderboard

Who says you need to ruin them?

Basically its 206 x 90 x 36.4mm Holes are all 10.85. 7/16 bit would be fine, bit big... Both sets are 68mm apart, centered across the width. The size of the radius cutout is not critical, just have to clear the curve of the bushing pocket on the bar it bolts to. And before you whacko's ask what's behind the little paper slips on the drawing, it's not dirty. They cover up bleed thru marker lines from the other side. I'm saving the forests by using both sides of the sheet. yay me...

When I suggested slotting the tops I had in mind that one would weld in the plates once one had enough money to do so. You would need some form of camber bushings (front and rear) to make that work but those are cheap as opposed to a full suspension upgrade. We ran -3 degrees using this method before welding in TTT plates and adjustable control arms. Granted this was a race car and overall looks were not important. Those done by Mark are very, very pretty. Nice work.

Jeff, Did you put some sealant at the main rear cap parting lines? those side seals can leak if you don't add a little sealant in a couple of places. I may have missed it in the video

Looking good Jeff! Looking forward to this one turning over.

Ha! I used a drill and a rotary tool with steel cutting head to do that. Granted I started with raw metal them primed and painted afterwards..., but still done by hand.

I like! 12/70 2.6 block E88 heads Mallory DCOE40 3/2 Twice pipes Tokico 1, 3/4 in sways, ext oil cooler

Further evidence that it doesn't have to be factory stock to bring in the cash. https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__bringatrailer.com_listing_1971-2Ddatsun-2D240z-2D51_&d=DwIFAg&c=IBOdtJkw7mis4tB3vCHqFQ&r=YmH3VJ9e1DCx9GHaRacx37TOIutCumzjaAks3ERqjrw&m=n8CV6MPCRh9JvPy08CF7GF2ZHgqbqkpISw3pIhFjkD0&s=LvWnQwSas0ZlFvzoAE-398jHUhH-C61lkvBxZB542m8&e=

They are talking about another member here who lives in Georgia. She damaged her car a little while back and has been trying to source the bumper ends. Seeing that you now have a large stock of cars/parts, they are probably thinking that you might be a source for the bumper parts for her.

Yes, I wanted to replace this stock valve which , according to my analysis is a normally closed valve although my seals were so rotten it wasn't anymore! If your car has no AC I think you don't need it.

Step 1. Idle Adjustment: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50683-need-advice-on-properly-tuning-both-hitachi-su-carbs/?tab=comments#comment-461005 Step 2. Off-Idle Adjustment: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50683-need-advice-on-properly-tuning-both-hitachi-su-carbs/?tab=comments#comment-461047

PPG was the paint supplier for the Vintage Z program. They have the colors for the early Zs. What percentage were painted 918? Anyone's guess as I have never seen any records. What is interesting and fairly well documented is that color combinations were produced in multiple sequences or series of two or three. For instance my two cars (26 and 27) are identical 907 green with butterscotch interiors.

Yes, apparently. The most common "71C" source is from a 240SX. But the 300ZX is possible also. Somewhere over the years they beefed up the gears in the 71C's, and they also added synchros. The later models have double synchros on 2nd and 3rd and a reverse synchro. I have one in the garage that I did and EuroDat has a 71C swap done also, I believe. The propeller shaft needs to be shorter, but it's been found that the very early 240Z shafts will work. Here's a couple of links showing what needs to be done. I swapped the countershaft bearing on mine, to avoid the cost of boring out the case. http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm https://www.motortopia.com/cars/1973-datsun-240z-11118/car-pictures/240sx-transmission-swap-14041/DSC04293JPG_Thumbnail1.jpg-266482