Leaderboard

I need to prep my race car this weekend and it's time for a carb rebuild. I have clear tubes that I was using for the 23mm down measurement. At 23mm down in the bowl my car runs very well so it must be close. I'll see where 23mm down puts the fuel in the carbs. The difference between 2.5 and 10 turns is significant and I should be able to tell which setting to use when checking for correct fuel level in the carbs. I'll take good pictures and try to figure this out. Chuck

I would suspect the idle hanging up

Lithium grease on the bottom of the strut insert should be safe.

I wondered if a seal issue is the reason too. If it is, you could add less oil so the bottom of the strut couldn't bond itself to the tube but the oil level would never get near the top strut seals

In doing further research, I'm glad I have decided to play with different ideas before implementing one. I was wondering about the minimum depth of material for using a helicoil, as @grannyknot has warned. I found this link: http://www.noblefix.com/helicoil/HeliCoil-Tapping-Chart.html. It expresses a depth of "H" that can be looked up in the chart on the page. It appears as though the minimum depth needed is 7mm. If that's the case, there could be an issue with using a helicoil since I know the material thickness is less than 7mm. Just in case, I did just order some 6mm deep M6 inserts. I'm going to end up knowing more about helicoils than I ever wanted to.

The Datsun engine is back!! This week I give body work a rest and I get stuck into porting the head.

I will stack all our mulch bags on the front crossmember.

We seem to be flogging the deceased equine at this point. Jalex has asked for a picture about a half dozen times. He's not a native English speaker and appears to be a visual learner. Since I've been a credentialed teacher for 50 years, I'd like to make a suggestion. We need to visually define terms. We need to use one of the carb pictures and place an arrow point at the spot that we refer to as a NOZZLE. A top view would be best. Next we need to show a ruler graduated in 1/16 inch increments and indicate where 1/16 of an inch would be indicated. Finally, a carb diagram side view indicating where the 1/16 inch should be (difference between top of nozzle and top of fuel level). Then we can have a "check for understanding" moment and press on. Can someone use the pictures on this page to indicate that information? I think it would be a big help in moving this process along. Dennis

If you are keeping the drums you can install a prop valve as long as you remove the stock one. You could also consider upgrading your shoe compound (Carbotech is a good source or Porterfield). Not a fan of cross-drilled rotors as the hot gas is trapped by the pads on both sides of the caliper. Slotted rotors solve this issue by having slots longer than the pads themselves. I have run the vented rotors with the S12-W Toyo calipers and drums for nearly 10 years on the 240 race car with good results. I moved to rear discs to get great results (jury is out on that until the car sees a track)

Use your imagination but this is close to what you want.

Permatex high temp anaerobic flange sealant. This stuff is made for those apps Blue.

Traction arms in and the car is finally brought down. Hilarious how high the front is compared to the rear. Ready for takeoff!

I use a parachute on mine. Kidding,

The internet is dead. Communications used to be private. You picked up a phone and talked to someone at the far end in confidence. Now the govt, military, police, advertisers, retailers, data brokers, scammers, hackers, et al are now analyzing every word you type.

Just when I thought we were nearing closure. Dennis