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Sure. The OP asked "Does anyone have a source for the correct color paint?" And to that question, several people have offered up suggestions of sources they think are the correct color. Some of them cheap and easy to find, and some of them expensive and much more difficult to obtain. But cost and availability aside, I believe all the responses to date have stuck to the topic. Every single one of them. Even the response where someone suggested that the question should not have even been asked in the first place and admonished the OP for even asking for help:

I goofed up the 1st time I did the remain, knocked it in too far, had to pull out (destroyed a oem seal) and redo. the side seals may be ok, on mine it was plain to see they were leaking (streaks of oil coming from the seam). make sure you lock that spring down inside the seal with grease, you don't want it getting knocked loose while tapping in the seal. The factory seal comes pre lubed with grease around the inside lip, the after market ones do not. Main thing is to take your time and gently tap into place with a suitable tool (sounds like something the FSM would say) note where the old one was, should be flush with the block.

Probably the PO didn't tighten the bolts to the specified torque and they loosened over time. There is a reason for a certain tension on bolts. When the flywheel and crankshaft heat up, the bolts can expand and become a fraction longer. In this situation the flywheel can move and the bolts can loosen further over time. The tension Nissan specifies is calculated the prevent this from happening.

Same with the 280Z floors...

studegard, I've alluded to a paint option that I believe is a great match to the original color (better than the other previously discussed easily available solutions), but I have to this point been clearly a little elusive, and for that I apologize. The reason for that elusiveness is I started messing around with this last fall and I ran out of warm painting weather before I had finalized my testing. I have spray samples that look great, but I didn't want to loose my findings on the Z community until I was closer to 100% confident in the results. My plan is to paint one of my taillight panels and then re-install it in the car along with the original panel which still retains the original factory finish. If after that test, it looks as good as I had hoped in several different lighting conditions, I'll pull the pin on the rest of the info I have. Unfortunately that won't be until sometime in the spring after it gets warmer. If you want to give it a try yourself, send me a PM and I'd be happy to fill you in on what I've tried. Maybe you can give it a shot too and provide a review using a second set of eyes.

I did not notice any Loctite on mine, I used air on mine so not sure just how hard they would have been to get out. I did us Loctite (blue not red) to put them back in and torqued to 100flbs. while you have it out take a look for leakage around rear main and side seals. good time to replace the rear main (sides can be done too but don't have to have the trans off for that). Also make sure to use a new pilot bushing. Use 2 long bolts with heads cut off as pilot bolts when reinstalling, makes it go a lot easier. after sliding trans on you can remove the long guide bolts and replace with reg bolts.

Only by lazy or oblivious owners. The factory documentation for the MK63-20S advises on how to trim and re-shape the backing plates to suit.

And presumably you don't find it is "...one more thing to have to work around."..? I have never found the factory-fitted fender mirrors on my cars to have got in my way. As with the mirror on your door, I just sub-consciously work around them. Unless you find yourself walking into your door mirror all the time?

Hello everyone, I apologize for not visiting Classiczcars more often. I'm doing a promotion for Free shipping on all pre-orders before 2/4/2018. I'm producing Series 1 and Series 2 dashes for 240z and in process of making a mold for 260z/280z dash. My current sample is Series 2 but there will be a small adjustment for Series 1 dash.

You're right. It's the spirit of giving, be it info, moral support or parts, that makes this club a shining star of goodness in a universe of sucking black holes.

That's what it's about! Sharing parts is great. Mark you are a shiny trophy on my shelf. 8^) Cliff

You're welcome. Glad they were usable. Pics would be great. Personally, I enjoy knowing that some of the collection (hoarded parts) will live on in another's Z.

Ha. If I read it the other way it totally says UNISIA. I'm going to go pull on some doors that say push now. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

JOY I for one am glad you stepped forth to lay this matter to rest. BUT JUST FOR THE RECORD TO THE ENTIRE COMMUNITY, these incessant questions about what something is worth annoy me to no end. Ultimately it is worth WHAT YOU ARE WILLING TO PAY FOR IT! Personally I would not consider myself an enthusiast with the idea of buying cars or anything else for that matter just to flip it. But if that is someone's thing then go for it. I take pride in crawling around cars, taking them apart, and putting them back together as good as or better than when brand new. Even considering the market I wouldn't consider selling one of mine unless it was to keep my family off the street. "SOMEONE" asked a question and it seemed as if it was just throwing something against the wall to see if it would stick. I take everyone here seriously, be it a problem with their car or any type of assistance needed if I can help. Once again, FOR THE RECORD, from this point forward I WON'T respond to VALUE QUESTIONS. The car looks great and but for a wash and wax and new tires it probably is a 4 out of 5.