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I know you know this already, but the idle is supposed to happen with the blades completely closed. That's one of the common ways that people who don't understand the flat tops screw them up. As for being embarrassed when you open the hood, I've got a better idea. Do what I did. You've got a lathe, right? ROUND TOPS!!!

Dont worry , as a Pastor ,I can assure you. The Lord deals harshly with those who use His Word for personal gain . Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using Z Car Club mobile app

I suspect we don't really know any of these politicians on either side of the aisle. We get 15 second sound bites that are selected to shape a certain point of view. That is not representative of who these people are... I would think most of us could be made to appear as something we are not if some one came along and picked a few short statements from us and ignored the rest of our life and said that represented who we are. We could be made out to be a monster, a drunk, a flake or a saint. For that matter I am no where near the same man I was in college or even when I was a young adult. I trust people I know! I don't trust politicians! None of them...I know a few politicians personally and I wouldn't trust them either...

Roy Moore would be happy if he could take this country back to 1917, and would do it any way he can. He would have fit right in back then. Poor misunderstood boy, he was just born too late.

Close Cliff. The ducts are made from ductwork. I hate this pic. The temp dropped overnight and my headlight covers developed small cracks at the fasteners. I had to tape them up to keep them from cracking further. My car looks like Alice Cooper.

I’m afraid I don’t have much to offer here, as I’m nowhere near the level of dialed-in performance that you’re trying to hit. My 280 is a DD that I have a great deal of fun with, but it’s not a track day weapon. I have a set of round tops that I rebuilt with a ZTherapy kit and it runs great for what I need. It was a couple years ago, so I don’t recall specifics on the needles - I believe they are a bit richer than stock. At some point, my plan is to swap out my 6-1 header for a 6-2-1 so I can install dual O2 sensors to measure & map (probably when I do the cam) but I’ve been largely distracted by other projects since the Z is running well enough as is.

There should be, and I agree with the above. It would be a real shame to a ruin a rust free car in the form of cut-off body parts if it could be legitimately titled instead. If the car was really hers to sell, then you should be able to get the proper paperwork to get it legitimately titled. Keep in mind, however, that just because a buyer calls a car "abandoned", it doesn't make it so. It's not up to the buyer to make that distinction. The NV DMV guidelines state that abandoned vehicles can be removed by a licensed NV wrecker who fills out all the appropriate paperwork and places a lien against the vehicle owner. And if the vehicle was on private property, there's more: "If an abandoned vehicle has been towed as a result of a property owner or property manager's request to remove an abandoned vehicle from their private property, a "PRIVATE PROPERTY ABANDONED VEHICLE RELEASE" (POR) form is required by the Department as proof of a private property abandoned vehicle impound." But back to the original belief that "she" owns the car. You can't "abandon" your own vehicle on your own property. If you're there, then it's not abandoned. You can have your own car hauled off as scrap (and there's forms for that too), but you can't proclaim your own vehicle as abandoned. It's a divide by zero error. So if she truly owns the car outright, then she should be able to sell it to you with the proper paperwork. If this vehicle changed possession (note that I did not say "ownership") with some cash and a handshake between two people, neither of whom names appear on the title, then it didn't really change ownership. If that's how it works, then I could "sell" my neighbor's old car that hasn't been titled for ten years. And there's a name for places that cut up and sell parts of a car that they never truly owned.... Ref: http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/vp263.pdf http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/wreckertow.pdf

Sounds like a good candidate for a replacement title. Most states will do a title search and issue a new title for a minimal fee. I'm sure it takes a bit of time, but scrapping a clean shell is a shame.

Better tires will do more for stopping distance on the street than any brake upgrade. Upgrades give better fade resistance and better pedal feel if done correctly. Using quality pads is always a good idea. Porterfield R4-S are a good street pad front and rear.

CO is my hero!

What is going to be the recipe for that 3.0 stroker?

Got these beautiful FLAT TOP carbs running on the 510 tonight. They run SO well. Took it out for a quick back lane romp and had TOO much fun. Here is proof of concept. Note. The idle is happening with the throttle blades 100% closed. I swear I'm going to get fake plastic hemi-spherical caps made that you can snap on your flat top bells so you don't have to be embarrassed every time you open your hood... And no laughing at the roof rack or the mack-tack paint job....

All of those needles are called ".100 needles" because they are "designed to be used with .100 nozzles." That's just the way they are classified. There are ".090 needles", ".100 needles", and ".125 needles." That's just the family characteristic.

Indy is only 5 hours from me. Maybe I should take a few of my spare parts if we come up with a swap meet plan.

We run stock brake hardware on our endurance racer with just high temp fluid, braided hoses, and Porterfield linings. We did finally add brake ducts in front but I'm not sure it was needed. Our races are up to 25.5 hours long and fade has not been an issue. That said, keeping the drums adjusted is a pain and our plan is to finally upgrade to vented fronts and rear discs. As the car gets faster with more mods, we will need more brake performance.

Grid posted for E Production shows four 240s in the race scheduled for 10:40 on Saturday 9/30. Race coverage will be streamed on the SCCA site: https://www.scca.com/events/1980940-2017-scca-runoffs/event_sessions/latest https://dk1xgl0d43mu1.cloudfront.net/user_files/scca/downloads/000/038/676/EP_Runoffs2017_Grid_Official.pdf?1506729971 https://dk1xgl0d43mu1.cloudfront.net/user_files/scca/downloads/000/037/858/17-Runoffs-Schedule-Rev-0926.pdf?1506465037

We use stock calipers, rotors and drums on our race cars and have no fade issues after 30 minutes of racing. The key for us is the Carbotech pads/shoes and high temp brake fluid. A guy in a 280Z doesn't even use any brake ducts yet he has won many races and a championship. Chuck

We have run the stock drums (steel) in our 240Z race car for over 10 years with comp shoes (CarboTech or Portfield) and the SW13 Toyo calipers and Z31 front rotors. For street use you could run aluminum drums instead.

I have not driven mine, but the consensus on all the Z forums and facebook is that the rear disks aren't needed. Most people either can't tell a difference or any gain. Some claim loses in braking power. I did it because my drums were toast and i like the look and ease of disks. That's about it. Hope that helps